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Old 07-12-2014, 05:20 AM   #239
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Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23 View Post
Just did the install - was wondering, would my torque specs be off if I installed the part on a relatively warm car? By the time I torqued the bolt back on, car had been off likely a little 2 hrs. Just wondering as 94 lbs came up pretty fast. Oh, and it was such a pain to get it off in the first place, car was definitely moving about.
It's fine...motors on assembly lines are out of car, cold and bare bones when such parts are being put on. The pre install (to chassis) tests require the crank pulley to be on "obviously".
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Old 07-12-2014, 05:21 AM   #240
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@PERRIN_Mladen is it possible to compromise the bolt and possibly shear it? I've got it installed now and it seems good to go but I remember when I used the breaker bar, I did about two cranks of consecutive 90 degrees before the bolt came loose. Now I know some of it is loading in the drive train be I couldn't be sure that it was only that. Fear in the back of my mind is that I twisted the bolt a bit as well when I took it off with breaker bar. Thoughts anyone?
The bolts much stronger then you think. If you used a calibrated or quality TQ wrench and didn't exceed the # you're worrying over nothing.
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Old 07-12-2014, 09:14 AM   #241
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Originally Posted by OICU812 View Post
The bolts much stronger then you think. If you used a calibrated or quality TQ wrench and didn't exceed the # you're worrying over nothing.
Not worried about compromising from torquing, more worried from using the breaker bar and have no sense of how much pressure I applied and not being sure if the "give" was completely drive train loading.
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Old 07-12-2014, 12:35 PM   #242
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Not worried about compromising from torquing, more worried from using the breaker bar and have no sense of how much pressure I applied and not being sure if the "give" was completely drive train loading.
I understand mine felt like I was going to need a sumo wrestler on end of a 3 foot breaker bar it's ok. I've ran mine as have several others thousands of miles after the deed and been fine..
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Old 08-03-2014, 08:04 PM   #243
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Aftermarket Crank Pulley Install

For those automatic Owners, per the service manual here is the crank tool.


18355AA000 and 18334AA000 (one for the handle and spanner the other for the required pins.

The flex tool isn't specifically recommended for our FA20 AT6. I think the lack of an inspection cover makes it a non-possibility and the starter location makes it hard to lock anything reliably.

The "Cam" tool called out earlier MAY work but I think someone need to give us a thumbs up as the pin spread is very important. Also, given the cost of the SST this may be a much better solution!

Amazon: OTC 4754 Universal Pulley Holder
http://goo.gl/1kgEDB

Lastly, keep in mind that even after you get the stock pulley off you have to get the after market one on w/o maring the aluminum. Not sure how you all are accomplishing that for the AT6.

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Old 08-03-2014, 08:34 PM   #244
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Good post, CladMonitor. Thanks.
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Old 11-03-2014, 01:18 AM   #245
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Thank you @Enigmus for this very useful guide!

I installed Perrin lightweight crank pulley yesterday. My BRZ is automatic, so it was tricky, but I made it. I didn't want to buy that special tool to hold the pulley, so I made it myself from a piece of wood I had, and some hardware (got the idea from some Subaru forums):

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Not the nicest looking thing, but it worked just fine.

Besides, I read, that the tool designed for Subaru pulley wouldn't work for the Perrin pulley, so I had to come up with something anyway. In case of my "tool" I just drilled the holes slightly differently at the other end of my plank, and used the same bolts.

But man, that crank bolt was tight! My 2' breaker bar was definitely not enough. I had to extend it with a thick metal tube (a bike holder became handy here ), and having a long plank as a pulley holder also helped. But even then it took several attempts for us to break that bolt loose!

I also measured the pulleys, as expected, the weight difference is massive!
(my scales are in grams of course )

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Haven't driven much yet, will see tomorrow, if it will help to offset the additional parasitic load from a supercharger at the low RPM.

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Old 11-03-2014, 01:31 AM   #246
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, will see tomorrow, if it will help to offset the additional parasitic load from a supercharger at the low RPM.
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Old 11-03-2014, 01:47 AM   #247
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It may sound funny, but there is some hesitation around 2000 RPM, which I believe is due to that additional load. After 3K it flies of course, so now I'm looking for a slight improvement at low RPM to get to the working range quicker.
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Old 11-03-2014, 09:20 AM   #248
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It may sound funny, but there is some hesitation around 2000 RPM, which I believe is due to that additional load. After 3K it flies of course, so now I'm looking for a slight improvement at low RPM to get to the working range quicker.
My point is that the change in rotational inertia of the pulley compared to a SC is negligible.
Something like an ant's fart in a hurricane comes to mind.
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Old 11-03-2014, 04:10 PM   #249
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My point is that the change in rotational inertia of the pulley compared to a SC is negligible.
The most parasitic load from the SC comes at the higher RPM, when it is actually compressing the air. I'd assume at the lower RPM the air resistance inside the compressor is almost negligible, so the additional load then is basically just rotating the SC pulley, a couple gears, and the impeller. Their total weight should be comparable to the weight difference of the lighter crank pulley. Of course that's not that simple, but I don't see where a huge difference in the rotational inertia between those would come from.

Would be interesting to have the actual math behind that.

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Something like an ant's fart in a hurricane comes to mind.
Frankly speaking the whole idea of replacing the crank pulley is like that "fart in a hurricane", but everyone confirms, that the difference is noticeable. The SC parasitic load is also just "noticeable" - it's not that huge. That's why I'm simply guessing they could be the values of a similar magnitude. And because "+" of a pulley and "-" of a SC happen at the same RPM range, it's just logical to try and sum them up.

Actually during my morning drive today I did notice several times that the engine RPM climbed slightly easier. Could be a placebo effect of course.

I wouldn't expect the crank pulley to make a huge difference, but even if it would give a slight improvement for its money - why not?
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Old 11-05-2014, 01:00 PM   #250
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Toyota Tech here. I was planning to get this for my car so I started to ask around the more experienced guys at the shop, and one of the heavy line guy said he already got a few blown engine with the light weight crank pully. He works around alot of FR-S's and was also one of the techs that was invited to work at the Toyota grand prix celebrity race as a tech. Now I'm not scaring anyone away from using it, but I just want to lay the facts on the table. Also theres not much that directly links the pully to the blown engine, he just said he noticed a few of the blown ones had it and for some was the only mod as far as he can tell.
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Old 12-14-2014, 01:27 PM   #251
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@Enigmus tip with picture to add to the DIY at your discretion

I apologize if this has been mentioned already. I never read past the first page of the diy lol

Doing mine as I type and this is how I put the belt back on, easiest possible way afaik. For the time/bs this would save I recommend taking off all pulley covers, it's another couple 10mm bolts so why not
Line up belt on all pulleys & tensioner, except this top center one, while simultaneously pushing down on the belt to keep it from slipping off the pulleys you're lining the belt up onto
Then when it's all lined up push down on the wrench (tighten/clockwise as mentioned) and position the belt onto this final pulley and you're done
**edit lol sorry not done completely, please remember to still double check that belt orientation is correct afterwards lol
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:57 AM   #252
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@Sportsguy83 - Curious. Why are you selling your pulley?
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