Transmission Rattle while in Gear and Iddle

[RToyo86]

I ordered a front bearing cover to have available when I do my TOB. One of those have it don't need it situations..
they're special order via local dealers.

Originally Posted by Tcoat

18s that were early builds (April or May 17 I believe) still had the old TOB. No doubt a few could have still slipped through the system until at least the mid build. It happens.

Interesting...Is there a way to determine which 2017s had old TOB vs revised one?

[spcmafia]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

I ordered a front bearing cover to have available when I do my TOB. One of those have it don't need it situations..
they're special order via local dealers.



QUOTE=Tcoat;3577598]18s that were early builds (April or May 17 I believe) still had the old TOB. No doubt a few could have still slipped through the system until at least the mid build. It happens.

Interesting... I assumed it was just some of the 2017s got the old TOB[/QUOTE]


Well Im about to find out in about two days time. Starting tomorrow Ill at least want to have most stuff removed and the Friday removing the transmission. If I find out that the cover needs to be replaced, I’m going to be pretty upset lol.
I pray my local dealerships have it in stock. Or at least Amazon.


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[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

Well Im about to find out in about two days time. Starting tomorrow Ill at least want to have most stuff removed and the Friday removing the transmission. If I find out that the cover needs to be replaced, I’m going to be pretty upset lol.
I pray my local dealerships have it in stock. Or at least Amazon.


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I doubt you will need one for a TOB swap.
Shipping in the states is less an issue for parts availability.


I have the part numbers here for anyone looking to replace the bearing cover.

Subaru
30099AA040

Toyota
SU00303853

Toyota 1281 sealant
00295-01281

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

I ordered a front bearing cover to have available when I do my TOB. One of those have it don't need it situations..
they're special order via local dealers.





Interesting...Is there a way to determine which 2017s had old TOB vs revised one?

Neither the Toyota nor Subaru service bulletins give a VIN range. The bulletins are both dated March 2017 so it is probably safe to say that any '17 with a 2016 build date may be impacted.
Now, this has been hit and miss no matter what year and not all cars were impacted. There are plenty of photos documenting that they were using at least two different parts but the same part number right from the start. This happens far more often than car manufacturers would like people to know. Would appear that one was bad and the other fine. There is no way for me to prove that of course.

[spcmafia]

I have begun. Fuck the bellhousing bolts.


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[spcmafia]

I removed everything that can be removed from the top. Wasn’t too bad except the two bell housing bolts. Which now Im concerned how am I going to get them torqued to spec or how am I going to fit a torque wrench in there.

I did notice those two bolts have a white layer of sealant, could this be replaced with Red or Blue Loctite?


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[spcmafia]

Is this supposed to be there? It driveshaft fell pretty easy and I don’t feel I hit anything.


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[spcmafia]

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[dragoontwo]

Yes. That's what holds the pinion gear in the differential.

While not crucial you did mark the driveshaft orientation on the flange before you removed it, right?

[spcmafia]

Originally Posted by dragoontwo

Yes. That's what holds the pinion gear in the differential.

While not crucial you did mark the driveshaft orientation on the flange before you removed it, right?

Yes I did!


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[Ultramaroon]

How I support the engine when removing the transmission

Also WRT the worn quill, I think of all new parts riding on old ones the same way I consider chains and sprockets.

Chains wear together with their sprockets. They're ok together but...

An old chain will quickly destroy new sprockets.
Old sprockets will quickly destroy a new chain.

The quill and TOB bushing aren't exactly the same but, especially with an over-square aspect ratio (diameter > bushing depth), the fit is critical because of how easily they will bind together when misaligned.

The quill is cheap. If you're confident that you can do a good job of cleaning the surfaces to get a good seal, change it.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

I removed everything that can be removed from the top. Wasn’t too bad except the two bell housing bolts. Which now Im concerned how am I going to get them torqued to spec or how am I going to fit a torque wrench in there.

I did notice those two bolts have a white layer of sealant, could this be replaced with Red or Blue Loctite?


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Leave one of those top screws in there finger-tight. This is a general rule for supporting heavy things connected by a flange. Keep the top screws in until you're ready to separate the parts.

Think of it like you were changing a wheel. If you yanked at the top of a wheel with only a single nut on a bottom stud, you can actually rip them apart. Would be impossible with the wheel rotated so the one stud is attached at the top.

Don't use anything on those screws. Just clean any grit off of the threads before reinstalling them.

[spcmafia]

Well.. The TOB was shot. Spinning very freely and there was a tiny rattle when shaken. The fork rusty and looking like it was deteriorating from in the the fork pivot area.

It was nerve racking taking th transmission off, but more putting back in. Felt like it took me the longest.

The transmission is back in, bolted, but not torqued. Tomorrow I’ll probably be able to finish and maybe I’ll install the suspension too. Took the chance and changed the diff oil.






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[spcmafia]

Transmission is bolted and so is the differential. The two pins that connect the gear selector to the shifter were a little tricky to put back on. Have to wiggle the transmission around.

Oil has been replaced in both diff and trans so now I have to put the exhaust components back in.


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