Calgary/Edmonton BRZ/FRS thread

[Baloo]

Originally Posted by frak

Are you still selling? Pm price

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

No, it had all been sold last year.

[Gutterboy]

thoughts? comments?

happy with the power bump in hp and torque and peak torque at 3700rpm with all signs looking like no terrible torque dip anymore.

These are big gains combined with a 50 - 60 % increase in rigidity to assist turn in on cornering.

Some welcome updates to the dash on gauges which is nice.

I'm actually a fan of it not having a turbo to allow for aftermarket to push this scene as well as they did on the first gen.

I think there could be some very respectable numbers with 11psi of boost on the 2.4.

not much of a fan of the new wrx-ish tailights nor the underwhelming headlights but its not an abortion of the original concept in my opinion. i just find it quite subdued and tamer than the front of the 1st gen.
Perhaps there is still hope for the GR86 to have some more aggressive lines on the bumper and reworked headlight and tailight to push the "baby brother of the supra" kind of idea. But this would make less interchangeable parts with a complete different headlight/tailight.

And then again you could flip the argument again and say well if the parts were to be totally interchangeable then why didn't toyota release their variant of the twins on the same date or close to instead of remaining silent.

[localhost]

Originally Posted by Gutterboy

I think there could be some very respectable numbers with 11psi of boost on the 2.4.

Ignoring aesthetics since it's subjective (I hate the new look fwiw), I'm not sure there will be that much headroom to boost this engine. I read somewhere that the 2.4 is 13.5:1 compression which is higher than the already high 12.5:1 on the old gen. Not sure how conducive that is to boosting, but my knowledge of FI and compression ratios is pretty limited.

[Gutterboy]

Originally Posted by localhost

Ignoring aesthetics since it's subjective (I hate the new look fwiw), I'm not sure there will be that much headroom to boost this engine. I read somewhere that the 2.4 is 13.5:1 compression which is higher than the already high 12.5:1 on the old gen. Not sure how conducive that is to boosting, but my knowledge of FI and compression ratios is pretty limited.

i saw the spec on the 13.5:1 compression later on as well and although that is indeed quite high and makes it difficult to create good boost numbers; the fact that it is extremely likely there will still be port and direct injection and more importantly the latter; boost will still be possible.

i would expect you couldn't do much over 8psi safely though and there will probably need to be a lot of finessing on timing for keeping knock under control.

This could be where a 48V electric supercharger for 5psi boost might be a more cost effective option for the extra kick on what the 2.4 does.

as for aesthetics, i myself find the front to be quite underwhelming and same with the back where the only thing i like is the lip spoiler which i already put on mine on day 1.

really hoping for toyota to take a big difference on the front grille, taillights and headlights.

will be exceedingly curious to see the aftermarket hack this ECU and see what can and can not be done. If it doesn't pan out that great perhaps the first gen and first gen refresh models become more wanted in the aftermarket crowd? That would be unexpected.

[Gutterboy]

lost my clutch a couple weeks back but just got a new exedy stage 1 to install with a verus forged clutch fork.

now just have to get the torque tube back in the other project car to reset suspension, put the wheels back on and the steering rack so i can roll it off the 4 post lift and get the maimed frs on the 4 post lift for this clutch job.

happy wrenching holidays. good thing i have a dual kegerator to keep me going!

[Muskoka800]

Originally Posted by Gutterboy

lost my clutch a couple weeks back but just got a new exedy stage 1 to install with a verus forged clutch fork.

now just have to get the torque tube back in the other project car to reset suspension, put the wheels back on and the steering rack so i can roll it off the 4 post lift and get the maimed frs on the 4 post lift for this clutch job.

happy wrenching holidays. good thing i have a dual kegerator to keep me going!

A four-post and a kegerator!
You’re living my dream.

[Gutterboy]

indeed the fuel in the fridge with a 20L and a 30L keg definitely helps. but also would be quite a bear to get the transmission out without a 4 post lift.

also no matter all the tips the DIY says on changing your clutch. absolutely unavoidable to not remove the shift carrier to get enough lift room to get transmission level to pull off of the bottom stud bolts from the block.

so i found i had to remove console and shifter from above to do this. but since i have had to remove that like 3 times for running wires for my subwoofer for the factory pioneer deck that took me literally no time at all out of practice lol.

here's some progress pics.

just read on another thread that you should NOT turn down the FA20 stock flywheel. good thing the machine shop is taking their time with it being holidays as i can yank it back. Honestly was very close to not sending it at all cause the mating surface is completely smooth as if it had never seen a clutch. weird. guess the original owner of my car really did baby it in its NA form. then i mutated it mwahahahaha; whoops its not halloween lol

Happy New Year all.

[Gutterboy]

debatable on whether my old flywheel had hotspots and after a big run around with the local subaru dealership on allegedly having an oem flywheel stock in hand; out of frustration i decided to just go with a competition light flywheel from ft86. just shipped this last monday and although ups was going to let me down once again by stating it would be here friday and then boosting till monday it magically arrived yesterday just before lunch allowing me to get my daily driver be put back together over the weekend; hopefully all done tomorrow.

lots to do with putting flywheel on; new clutch; putting trans back in and everything else i took apart to get to it with shift carrier, driveshaft, starter and a few connectors, a ground, slave cylinder and exhaust and covers.

nothing a good breakfast, some garage heat, the 4 post lift, some kegerator beer and some tunes can't solve.

should be interesting to re-learn how the car feathers from standstill with the 10lbs of weight shaving on the flywheel. even more interesting will be whether rpm climb under boost pressure is more aggressive with lighter flywheel. will need to watch the logs albeit winter on skinny tires isn't the best of indicators but if i can find dry pavement should be interesting to see after clutch break in.



figured i'd use the alberta thread to bump since my last post since the posts have been pretty sparse amongst the covid....

[Gutterboy]

well, things actually quite smooth on saturday and didn't even have to fight with the transmission that much for it to slide back on (really helped to leave the engine jacked from oil pan exactly the way i took it off).

much simpler than my german mutation i am building i must say.

quite a delight to see how rev happy the car is with the 10 lb weight shaving on the flywheel and the snappy grab of the stage 1.

already starting to settle down a bit for an easy adjustment on daily driver after 50km on the new flywheel and clutch so i highly recommend for driveability but more sporty feel if while at it on the replacement of the TOB like my situation. The competition lightened flywheel for barely more than OEM since you can't machine the factory one anyways is a no brainer in my opinion having done it now.

Cheers



(at least not until after my clutch break in lol)

[Gutterboy]

almost complete on new clutch break in and highly highly recommend a stage one with the competition lightened flywheel. It does not go overboard in terms of affecting driveability as a daily driver definitely makes the car more rev happy and is more snappy on load transfer for sure with higher clamping force. Very much like this change, makes me think i was so used to a tonne of clutch slip with my FI setup on OEM clutch. Probably should have jumped on this long ago. turns out the failed TOB is sort of a blessing in disguise.

although most clutch kits would come with a clutch alignment tool i have the following left over:

spare new NTN white dot TOB

my old oem clutch fork (in case yours is cracked and you don't want to shell out for a verus forged fork like i did; beautiful upgrade though)

transmission rear seal (mine was perfect didn't need to replace)

used release bearing from old flywheel (thing is perfect but changed it anyway)

input shaft seal cover inner seal (shaft cover was destroyed but seal inside was salvaged, you woudn't know this is portentially bad and needs to replace till you took it off assuming your seal cover was destroyed by the failed TOB like mine; honestly would be quite odd for this to ever fail so probably not useful for anyone lol)

[Tcoat]

OK so who worked at a car rental place in Edmonton in 2018?
If you are still around you made it onto youtube!

[Ghost of Akina]

Planning to move to Calgary in the next 12 months, I have only spent time there visiting so not super clear on what area to look for a home. Looking for an area that’s good for a young family and car enthusiast friendly lol.

[alphasaur]

This one of you guys? Alberta plates in rhinebeck ny. Hello!

[BRZZZZZZZZZZ]

Originally Posted by Ghost of Akina

Planning to move to Calgary in the next 12 months, I have only spent time there visiting so not super clear on what area to look for a home. Looking for an area that’s good for a young family and car enthusiast friendly lol.

Buying or renting? Lots of car people everywhere it seems like.