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Old 04-08-2020, 01:03 AM   #15
solidONE
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I've had the same problem shearing off the Ohlins swaybar brackets with a 1" Hotchkis, three brackets in total. I'm convinced Ohlins only tested this setup with the stock swaybars and did not engineer these brackets for use with larger aftermarket bars. When I contacted them, they did not stock spare brackets and sent me used ones off a set of warranty return coilovers. I ended up having a metal fabrication guy weld up a set of reinforced brackets, I recommend the OP do the same.
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Old 04-08-2020, 06:09 AM   #16
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Is it possible that you have moved the height adjustment bracket too far in order to reduce ride height?

In your photos the bracket looks like it is well out of the recommended range.
The kit is engineered for an adjustment range for the height adjuster bracket of only +-10mm from its recommended position (as supplied).

The correct geometry for the drop link bracket is dependent on the position of the height adjustment bracket, and obviously greater stresses (with a new bar) and incorrect geometry are not ideal .

Hope this might help.

Lyndon

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Old 04-08-2020, 07:16 PM   #17
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You need to make it a habit to wipe down your work. I thought the aluminum mount that the bracket is bolted to was cracked from the picture.

As suggested by grumpysnapper who just upgraded from a set of these shocks, you went beyond the recommended adjustment range. There may be a way to still have it at the setting you prefer and not have it break. Make new ones that will give you the clearance and beef them up with gussets or use thicker material, as suggested by glhs386. I think thats the direction you need to go, or set them to what ohlins recommends and dont mess with it beyond the recommendations from the manual.

Edit: also I see markings on your frame at the inner wheel well that I'm pretty sure is from the end links I did not see earlier. Another reason wo wipe down your work. lol I sound like a shop teacher..
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Old 04-08-2020, 08:04 PM   #18
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For what it's worth, all my brackets broke with the ride height set to the Ohlins recommended default setting as stated in the manual. Not to say that lowering the car excessively doesn't make the situation worse, it makes sense that it would, I just want to state that raising the ride height alone is not a 100% fix, at least in my experience.
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Old 04-08-2020, 10:23 PM   #19
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That sway bar mount is trash. It looks like a cheap design solution to have a steel sway bar mount attached to an aluminum strut mount. Flat plate has no business in this application. It will flex and bend. When it bends too much it could put the endlink in bind which can accelerate the failure. There may be some other contributing situations going on with these cars, but that design would never see the light of day on one of mine. There is a reason the OEMs have top and bottom gussets on them, as does most of the aftermarket, and that's to stop bending failures like this.
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Old 04-09-2020, 12:23 AM   #20
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That sway bar mount is trash. It looks like a cheap design solution to have a steel sway bar mount attached to an aluminum strut mount. Flat plate has no business in this application. It will flex and bend. When it bends too much it could put the endlink in bind which can accelerate the failure. There may be some other contributing situations going on with these cars, but that design would never see the light of day on one of mine. There is a reason the OEMs have top and bottom gussets on them, as does most of the aftermarket, and that's to stop bending failures like this.
That might be true but from his photos it looks like the endlink is making contact at multiple points to the frame, the control arm, and the damper body... its gonna break even if you beef it up. It just might grind down the contact point a bit more before it gives but it will at lest bend if not break.
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Old 04-09-2020, 12:43 AM   #21
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That might be true but from his photos it looks like the endlink is making contact at multiple points to the frame, the control arm, and the damper body... its gonna break even if you beef it up. It just might grind down the contact point a bit more before it gives but it will at lest bend if not break.
Just commenting on the design of the piss poor mount. Never suggested this was the solution to his particular problem. Bending of the mount may also be aggravating interference issues. As I said, there may be other factors going on with these cars but you are absolutely correct, moving parts don't like to be bound up on things and will damage even propery designed parts.
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Old 05-19-2020, 12:43 PM   #22
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so did anyone find an endlink that clears the strut at full lock?

I had spl ones but they bent from contact....
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Old 05-21-2020, 02:14 AM   #23
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so did anyone find an endlink that clears the strut at full lock?

I had spl ones but they bent from contact....
The Hotchkis are the thinnest I could find. I filed off the corner of the strut bracket just to be sure, they were still pretty damn close to rubbing. I also had to cut down the length of the endlink rod a little because they were too long and the swaybar would have contacted the lower control arm. Might not be an issue with stock or other brands of aftermarket swaybars.

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Old 05-21-2020, 08:47 AM   #24
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The Hotchkis are the thinnest I could find. I filed off the corner of the strut bracket just to be sure, they were still pretty damn close to rubbing. I also have to cut down the length of the endlink rod a little because they were too long and the swaybar would have contacted the lower control arm. Might not be an issue with stock or other brands of aftermarket swaybars.
How long are they in comparison to stock endlink if you remember... I'm like an inch lower or so

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Old 05-21-2020, 01:45 PM   #25
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How long are they in comparison to stock endlink if you remember... I'm like an inch lower or so

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It was a few years ago at this point, but I think I trimmed around a quarter of an inch of thread off each end.
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Old 05-21-2020, 01:54 PM   #26
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so did anyone find an endlink that clears the strut at full lock?

I had spl ones but they bent from contact....
The Racer X units are thinner than stock, like the Hotchkis units. I’m not sure how much they lower though.

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Old 05-21-2020, 06:57 PM   #27
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The Racer X units are thinner than stock, like the Hotchkis units. I’m not sure how much they lower though.
The shafts of both the stock and Hotchkis links are just slightly thicker than a pencil. These look considerably thicker, almost as thick as the Whitelines which definitely do not clear.
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Old 05-21-2020, 09:29 PM   #28
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The shafts of both the stock and Hotchkis links are just slightly thicker than a pencil. These look considerably thicker, almost as thick as the Whitelines which definitely do not clear.
Yeah that’s my bad, for some reason I thought the racer X would be thinner in real life.
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