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04-08-2020, 01:03 AM | #15 | |
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04-08-2020, 06:09 AM | #16 |
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Is it possible that you have moved the height adjustment bracket too far in order to reduce ride height?
In your photos the bracket looks like it is well out of the recommended range. The kit is engineered for an adjustment range for the height adjuster bracket of only +-10mm from its recommended position (as supplied). The correct geometry for the drop link bracket is dependent on the position of the height adjustment bracket, and obviously greater stresses (with a new bar) and incorrect geometry are not ideal . Hope this might help. Lyndon Last edited by grumpysnapper; 04-08-2020 at 06:24 AM. |
04-08-2020, 07:16 PM | #17 |
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You need to make it a habit to wipe down your work. I thought the aluminum mount that the bracket is bolted to was cracked from the picture. As suggested by grumpysnapper who just upgraded from a set of these shocks, you went beyond the recommended adjustment range. There may be a way to still have it at the setting you prefer and not have it break. Make new ones that will give you the clearance and beef them up with gussets or use thicker material, as suggested by glhs386. I think thats the direction you need to go, or set them to what ohlins recommends and dont mess with it beyond the recommendations from the manual. Edit: also I see markings on your frame at the inner wheel well that I'm pretty sure is from the end links I did not see earlier. Another reason wo wipe down your work. lol I sound like a shop teacher..
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cowardice is the mother of cruelty. Last edited by solidONE; 04-09-2020 at 12:16 AM. |
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04-08-2020, 08:04 PM | #18 |
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For what it's worth, all my brackets broke with the ride height set to the Ohlins recommended default setting as stated in the manual. Not to say that lowering the car excessively doesn't make the situation worse, it makes sense that it would, I just want to state that raising the ride height alone is not a 100% fix, at least in my experience.
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04-08-2020, 10:23 PM | #19 |
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That sway bar mount is trash. It looks like a cheap design solution to have a steel sway bar mount attached to an aluminum strut mount. Flat plate has no business in this application. It will flex and bend. When it bends too much it could put the endlink in bind which can accelerate the failure. There may be some other contributing situations going on with these cars, but that design would never see the light of day on one of mine. There is a reason the OEMs have top and bottom gussets on them, as does most of the aftermarket, and that's to stop bending failures like this.
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04-09-2020, 12:23 AM | #20 | |
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04-09-2020, 12:43 AM | #21 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Z06ZN6 For This Useful Post: | solidONE (04-09-2020) |
05-19-2020, 12:43 PM | #22 |
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so did anyone find an endlink that clears the strut at full lock?
I had spl ones but they bent from contact.... |
05-21-2020, 02:14 AM | #23 |
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The Hotchkis are the thinnest I could find. I filed off the corner of the strut bracket just to be sure, they were still pretty damn close to rubbing. I also had to cut down the length of the endlink rod a little because they were too long and the swaybar would have contacted the lower control arm. Might not be an issue with stock or other brands of aftermarket swaybars.
Last edited by glhs386; 05-21-2020 at 01:42 PM. |
05-21-2020, 08:47 AM | #24 | |
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05-21-2020, 01:45 PM | #25 |
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05-21-2020, 01:54 PM | #26 |
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05-21-2020, 06:57 PM | #27 |
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The shafts of both the stock and Hotchkis links are just slightly thicker than a pencil. These look considerably thicker, almost as thick as the Whitelines which definitely do not clear.
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05-21-2020, 09:29 PM | #28 |
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Yeah that’s my bad, for some reason I thought the racer X would be thinner in real life.
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