CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Zach3794]

Originally Posted by jdmblood

hell yea lmao. Got the Tokyo drift avatar and thanks for the advid. The bilstein b6s I believe are the lowering ones.

B6 is stock replacement, B8 is the shorter bodied shock designed for use with lowering springs.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by jdmblood

hell yea lmao. Got the Tokyo drift avatar and thanks for the advid. The bilstein b8s I believe are the lowering ones.

fixed that for ya

[Doozer]

Hi Guys,

Been trolling for a while and slowing learning a lot.

I have a track day coming up and I'm looking for some more exit speed.

Car has:
Ohlins SIS MI20's
Rear chassis bushings
3* front camber
3mm toe-out front
3mm toe-in rear
Kumho v710 (245/40/17)
Eneki 17x8 wheels

track has high speed (180+km/h) and low speed (60-km/h) corners. suspension has gradually worked their way down to the stiffest settings.

We're experiencing 4 wheel flat slides on entry and we have to delay getting on the gas in the center because it will just break the rear free. We're getting killed on the straights because of this...

Could sway bars possibly solve this issue? If so what size is recommended? Car is still 180whp

Any help is really appreciated. Thanks folks

[supramkivtt2jz]

Thanks again for doing this guys!

Im looking at wheel spacers in the future - I would like to increase the track width front and rear and to bring the wheels a little more "flush" with the body. Im curious how this will affect the scrub radius and braking stability. Currently, Im looking at 20mm spacers up front and 30mm rear.

Ive read that mcpherson suspensions do well with a lot of negative scrub and Im afraid 20mm will be too much. Can you guys offer any comments or suggestions for a guy that tracks roughly two times a year and autocrosses non-competitively?

[Doozer]

Originally Posted by supramkivtt2jz

Thanks again for doing this guys!

Im looking at wheel spacers in the future - I would like to increase the track width front and rear and to bring the wheels a little more "flush" with the body. Im curious how this will affect the scrub radius and braking stability. Currently, Im looking at 20mm spacers up front and 30mm rear.

Ive read that mcpherson suspensions do well with a lot of negative scrub and Im afraid 20mm will be too much. Can you guys offer any comments or suggestions for a guy that tracks roughly two times a year and autocrosses non-competitively?

We've run 20mm front and 30mm rear, wheels have another 45mm offset. Car was 0.1s faster without the rear spacers but felt like ice with the fronts still in.

Didn't notice a difference in braking, but I think we lost aero with the rear wheels stickin out so far.

Tire temp variance remained constant with and without spacers but temps increased in the rear with them removed.

Without rear camber, our inside edge of rear tires are consistently 10*F hotter then the outside edge, regardless of spacers

...just one guys thoughts...

pic 1 is RF w/20mm
pic 2 is rear stance with 45mm offset wheels and 30mm spacers

[supramkivtt2jz]

Originally Posted by Ring Leader

We've run 20mm front and 30mm rear, wheels have another 45mm offset. Car was 0.1s faster without the rear spacers but felt like ice with the fronts still in.

Didn't notice a difference in braking, but I think we lost aero with the rear wheels stickin out so far.

Tire temp variance remained constant with and without spacers but temps increased in the rear with them removed.

Without rear camber, our inside edge of rear tires are consistently 10*F hotter then the outside edge, regardless of spacers

...just one guys thoughts...

pic 1 is RF w/20mm
pic 2 is rear stance with 45mm offset wheels and 30mm spacers

thanks for the input! did the car feel stable with the front and rears? what were your times with and without spacers? can you elaborate a little more on the "ice" feeling?

Thanks!

[Doozer]

Originally Posted by supramkivtt2jz

thanks for the input! did the car feel stable with the front and rears? what were your times with and without spacers? can you elaborate a little more on the "ice" feeling?

Thanks!

With spacers- High speed corners felt very stable

With spacers- In the low speed tight turns (like autoX) it developed a push in the front end as it was more difficult to swing the rear out on entry. To fix this "push" issue, less brake was used and a bit of a Scandinavian flick was applied to set the car up early for the corner. Using tire scrub to slow the car down just to get a better entry line.

I can't offer too much on time variance with and without spacers because at first i was on toyo 888's without them. We switched to Kumho's and spacers at the same time, and 2.3s were gained on a 3.5km track.

The "ice" feeling was experienced without the rear spacers (but front spacers still in) on high speed corners. The rear felt like it could let go at any moment. Much more steering input was required and brow sweat was increased. Low speed corners less tire scrub and sliding were required.

Again, there was a 0.1s gain with 20mm front and no rear spacers on our fastest time.

I'd wait for others to input before you make a decision, but trail and error always works too!

Good luck

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by mrretep

I plan on running 265/35/18 Hankook V12 for DD duty and 245/40/17 Hankook RS3 for track/autox.

I would use the standard 400/400 lbs/in spring rates of the T2s. That's 7 kg/mm and a good fit for street tires. You could go a little bit firmer, but I don't think that you need to unless you were using an r-comp.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Ring Leader

Hi Guys,

Been trolling for a while and slowing learning a lot.

I have a track day coming up and I'm looking for some more exit speed.

Car has:
Ohlins SIS MI20's
Rear chassis bushings
3* front camber
3mm toe-out front
3mm toe-in rear
Kumho v710 (245/40/17)
Eneki 17x8 wheels

track has high speed (180+km/h) and low speed (60-km/h) corners. suspension has gradually worked their way down to the stiffest settings.

We're experiencing 4 wheel flat slides on entry and we have to delay getting on the gas in the center because it will just break the rear free. We're getting killed on the straights because of this...

Could sway bars possibly solve this issue? If so what size is recommended? Car is still 180whp

Any help is really appreciated. Thanks folks

How much rear camber and what spring rates are you running?

Also, how's your ride height?

- Andy

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

I would use the standard 400/400 lbs/in spring rates of the T2s. That's 7 kg/mm and a good fit for street tires. You could go a little bit firmer, but I don't think that you need to unless you were using an r-comp.

- Andy

Andy do you guys sell the 570lb Eibach springs for the T2? The 400lb were great with the PSS but with r-comps now I feel as if I could use a bit stiffer spring.

[Doozer]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

How much rear camber and what spring rates are you running?

Also, how's your ride height?

- Andy

Rear camber is OEM stock. Which leads me to believe that the inside rear tires are getting dragged across the track which is causing the 10*F higher temps (compared to the outer edge).

Ride height is approx 58cm front and 59cm rear.

Not sure on the spring rates, but they're 6Klbs springs. Springs are 20cm height, 9cm diameter and 1.25cm coil diameter
(Ohlins P/N 47010-15/60C 083)

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

Andy do you guys sell the 570lb Eibach springs for the T2? The 400lb were great with the PSS but with r-comps now I feel as if I could use a bit stiffer spring.

IIRC you can order the TII's with 400/400 (stock), 500/500 or 600/600.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

Andy do you guys sell the 570lb Eibach springs for the T2? The 400lb were great with the PSS but with r-comps now I feel as if I could use a bit stiffer spring.

We can get any rate you want.

We use Swift, Hyperco, Eibach, and KW springs.

Yes with r-comps you might want something a little firmer.

PM or call...Myles has been all over the place with KPAX recently but things should settle down soon. I'm trying to keep up with PMs in the meantime.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Ring Leader

Rear camber is OEM stock. Which leads me to believe that the inside rear tires are getting dragged across the track which is causing the 10*F higher temps (compared to the outer edge).

Ride height is approx 58cm front and 59cm rear.

Not sure on the spring rates, but they're 6Klbs springs. Springs are 20cm height, 9cm diameter and 1.25cm coil diameter
(Ohlins P/N 47010-15/60C 083)

Okay. Yes a front sway will help, but if you're running full stiff all around I would start by softening the rear (actually front too). If you have poor grip on entry AND can't put power down on exit then it's likely you're too stiff on dampers. Turning it down may seem counter-intuitive at the track but you'll have more grip.

I see people crank up the damper adjustment all the time to make up for springs that are too soft (which yours are in this case with those tires) and the results are not ideal....and often worse than just running the dampers set properly to match the spring rates.

Either increase spring rates to better control roll with your V710s and adjust dampers to match OR turn down your shocks now to match your springs and live with the springs being too soft.

Alternatively, front and rear swaybars could help add a little roll stiffness to make you happy but I'd still turn down the dampers a bit.

For what it's worth I don't remember the last time I've run a shock at full stiff.

- Andy