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Old 08-20-2014, 02:03 PM   #113
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There are dampners, but no balancers.

Some basic info:
Each time the air/fuel mixture inside a cylinder is ignited, the combustion that occurs creates a torque spike that is applied to the crankshaft through the piston and rod. This torque spike is so severe that it not only turns the crankshaft, it actually twists the crankshaft ahead of its normal rotation and then the crankshaft rebounds. This twisting action is known as torsional vibration. When these torque spikes and forces get into phase with the natural frequency, critical torsional harmonic vibrations occur and can be seriously destructive to the bearings and the crankshaft. Dampers are designed to control those destructive vibrations.


Critical harmonic vibrations occur numerous times in a engine’s operating range. Stock rubber and elastomer-type dampers are frequency sensitive “tuned absorbers”, and work at only one critical frequency. In the case of a stock rubber damper, it is tuned for a factory engine’s critical harmonic vibrations. If you change the mass of pistons, rods, or the crankshaft, you change the natural frequency of the crankshaft assembly; therefore, the stock damper is no longer tuned to the new frequency of vibration, and you may be headed for early failure of expensive engine components. Dampers also create heat while they work, and rubber is a poor dissipator of heat. This heat and the exposure to the elements deteriorates rubber, causing it to crack and change durometer, which then leads to inertia ring slippage, damper failure, uncontrolled torsional vibration, and costly engine parts breakage.
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Old 08-20-2014, 02:10 PM   #114
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. This heat and the exposure to the elements deteriorates rubber, causing it to crack and change durometer, which then leads to inertia ring slippage, damper failure, uncontrolled torsional vibration, and costly engine parts breakage.
Not to mention the "non-linear catastrophic structural exasperation".

I never thought about it before, but has any company ever tried to build vibration dampeners INTO the crank?
I imagine that a void in the thick portion of the journal filled with silicone would work.
It would absorb the vibration via friction and dissipate it as heat.
If there was no air, the silicone would not move and throw off the balance
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Old 08-20-2014, 02:20 PM   #115
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Are there no aftermarket solutions to allow for both pulley and flywheel? I've got about 3,000 miles on my Raceseng S2 kit + 10lb flywheel. I didn't know about the potential for disaster until just now. If the problem is essentially bearing erosion over time due to vibration, I may have some very rough looking bearings by now, even though everything feels fine.

...
x2...
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Old 08-20-2014, 02:38 PM   #116
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After installing and subsequently removing my LWCP, i don't think I would ever install one again. There's no reward for the added risk of running one, and the added "throttle response" just makes the car harder to drive
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Old 08-20-2014, 05:23 PM   #117
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Are there no aftermarket solutions to allow for both pulley and flywheel?
ATI for the crank pulley
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:57 PM   #118
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The ATI pulley is heavier than the stock pulley. Don't go there to lose any weight.
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Old 08-21-2014, 12:32 AM   #119
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The ATI pulley is heavier than the stock pulley. Don't go there to lose any weight.


Where are you getting that idea? Last I knew the ATI was 4 lbs.
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:00 AM   #120
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Where are you getting that idea? Last I knew the ATI was 4 lbs.
I own one. I can't recommend it. Wait for fluidampr...
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Old 09-11-2014, 11:14 AM   #121
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Cons to a lowered weight pulley set?

FWIW i loved the all-lightened combo. The way the revs always want to go up or down.

Too bad it sounds like that trashes the crank bearings.

If anyone needs the stock crank pulley I have 1 for free, just for the shipping costs.

Last edited by jack43; 09-11-2014 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 11-10-2014, 03:54 PM   #122
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This pulley is mounted toyota motorsport currently in its prototype TMG GT86 CS-R3 TMG 2015 world rally championship 3.

Their appearance does seem as heavy weight as most of aftermarket pulleys, and these engines types ussually does maintenance services about 1k-2k miles, including changing the bearings in the operation.

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Old 12-22-2014, 11:13 PM   #123
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I found this thread pretty interesting... Thanks guys!

I have a question, not commonly asked.

If i were to choose a LWCP, is it always "the lighter the better"?

For example, Perrin (1lbs) vs Raceseng (0.8lbs).
Is there a con to going too light? If so, how light is the lightest i can go?
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Old 12-23-2014, 12:58 AM   #124
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I found this thread pretty interesting... Thanks guys!

I have a question, not commonly asked.

If i were to choose a LWCP, is it always "the lighter the better"?

For example, Perrin (1lbs) vs Raceseng (0.8lbs).
Is there a con to going too light? If so, how light is the lightest i can go?
Not answering your question but weighing in to say that I personally have the raceseng LWCP and I love it so far. Revs feel super responsive.
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Old 12-23-2014, 02:51 AM   #125
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Hmmmm.. Answers still needed, but thanks for the review.


Also wondering, are those Accessories Pulley kit (eg: Perrin), worth the extra $200 over just a simple Crank Pulley?

I understand further weight losses are a good thing, but not sure if any benefits, if at all, can be felt/seen
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Old 12-23-2014, 07:24 AM   #126
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Originally Posted by Dihudaxia View Post
Hmmmm.. Answers still needed, but thanks for the review.


Also wondering, are those Accessories Pulley kit (eg: Perrin), worth the extra $200 over just a simple Crank Pulley?

I understand further weight losses are a good thing, but not sure if any benefits, if at all, can be felt/seen
I did the math somewhere but the majority of the gains (like 95%) are had at the crank pulley. The rest to contribute modestly at the cost/benefit ratio starts getting mighty skewed in the wrong direction the more pulleys you add to the mix. I guess there is a case for installing the rest to have them all look the same if that sort of thing floats your boat.
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