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Old 03-31-2014, 03:17 PM   #1135
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this will not affect geometry though
True, SIA would be the same, but the strut would be more upright
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:55 PM   #1136
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Tire pressure is perfect on all four corners. I think it could be that I haven't had a chance to fully adjust the ride height equally, one side is slightly lower than the other.
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:57 PM   #1137
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Tire pressure is perfect on all four corners. I think it could be that I haven't had a chance to fully adjust the ride height equally, one side is slightly lower than the other.
you'll need to re-do your alignment if you re-adjust your heights...

did your alignment shop give you a printout? Did they do the alignment with you in the car?
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:58 PM   #1138
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It should be on file. I'll have to adjust the height and get the control arms for the rear and re align it


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Old 03-31-2014, 04:01 PM   #1139
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Ok...maybe this isn't the right thread to ask, but I guess it's suspension related. I've always wondered about upgrading things like control arms and links that are attached to chassis pick up points. Let's say you upgrade these parts for whatever reason (adjustability, rice factor, lighter, etc) and they are stronger and stiffer than OEM stamped steel pieces, could the higher strength of these pieces end up causing even problem by messing up the pick up points on the chassis in an accident? In other words, are 'weaker' OEM pieces better designed for street driving incidents? (if you are racecar, then I would assume that you can fix any chassis issues)
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:02 PM   #1140
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Depends on the specific part, but for example an Aluminum control arm will bend the subframe instead of a steel control arm if you hit a rock. If thats what you mean...
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:14 PM   #1141
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What about 9k all round? Or, 10k all around? -DII street tires

1k staggered with stiffer rear vs 2k staggered stiffer rear
Wouldn't 2k stiffer more in rear be too much? (ie: 10k 12k) ...but I notice a few people sometimes recommending a 2k stagger. I am sure 1kg stagger would be fine...not sure about 2kg stagger tho...sounds like a big difference (I'm prolly wrong tho)
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:06 PM   #1142
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Depends on the specific part, but for example an Aluminum control arm will bend the subframe instead of a steel control arm if you hit a rock. If thats what you mean...

yes, that's pretty much what I mean.
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:04 PM   #1143
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What about 9k all round? Or, 10k all around? -DII street tires

1k staggered with stiffer rear vs 2k staggered stiffer rear
Wouldn't 2k stiffer more in rear be too much? (ie: 10k 12k) ...but I notice a few people sometimes recommending a 2k stagger. I am sure 1kg stagger would be fine...not sure about 2kg stagger tho...sounds like a big difference (I'm prolly wrong tho)
You might want to provide some more info about your cars intended use and what coilovers you will be looking to run those rates on. They seem very high for a street car.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:00 AM   #1144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben_G View Post
Ok...maybe this isn't the right thread to ask, but I guess it's suspension related. I've always wondered about upgrading things like control arms and links that are attached to chassis pick up points. Let's say you upgrade these parts for whatever reason (adjustability, rice factor, lighter, etc) and they are stronger and stiffer than OEM stamped steel pieces, could the higher strength of these pieces end up causing even problem by messing up the pick up points on the chassis in an accident? In other words, are 'weaker' OEM pieces better designed for street driving incidents? (if you are racecar, then I would assume that you can fix any chassis issues)
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Yup. A lot of guys who simply just street keep talking about control arm rigidity as if they are the suspension gurus. The arms bend because they are designed to bend during an impact. Obviously if you want to extract the very most out of your suspension, these control arms will be replaced by some nice pieces, but you're also trading it off for potential deflection in the chassis. The energy has to go somewhere.
Everything's a compromise.
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Old 04-01-2014, 11:33 AM   #1145
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Ok well here's another question. I have the HKS GT coils. Not that bad for spirited driving but I want something more for track use. Want to swap out the springs for some swifts. It's got 6k front and 4.5k rear I believe. I was thinking 7k front and 6k rear.but want some input. I love the coils right now for daily and comfortable for my 6 month son but I want something competetive
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:30 PM   #1146
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[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOtFJ-NcsHQ"]FCM Suspension Truth v2.3 - How Shocks Work - Rally setups - YouTube[/ame]
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Old 04-01-2014, 01:13 PM   #1147
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i want my FRS to be able to do this, lol, this is ridiculous!

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Np_DIJNpS_E"]Meanwhile in Norway Kenneth Moen Rally stage Drift - YouTube[/ame]
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Old 04-01-2014, 05:56 PM   #1148
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Question regarding RCE yellows and rear camber adjustment.

Why would I want the whiteline adjustable upper control arm bushings over the whiteline lower control arm adjustable bushing? It's 2 less bushings to install, easier to adjust and has more range.

This is from what I understand, I might be wrong.
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