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Old 03-27-2012, 11:26 PM   #99
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i imagine sometime later in my cars life i'll track it, but few and far between track days will be for me. springs and camber plates seem like a good way to go for everyday driving and keeping things economical, especially if camber plates will help to even out tread wear better than stock, no?
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:32 AM   #100
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Originally Posted by serialk11r View Post
If you read the other thread, I asked the same question basically, and the reply from the people who seem to know their stuff was a slight drop shouldn't affect the geometry appreciably and there's no need to swap everything out because you dropped it only 0.8" (as the RCE springs do).
Idk, not the impression I got from that thread. I mean 0.8" won't royally screw up handling during mild-mannered street driving, but I'd guess in this car it's gonna be noticeable during spirited driving.
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:02 AM   #101
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Well, camber correction might be a good idea, but correcting roll center might not be necessary. You're moving the center of gravity down too, so I'm guessing the roll moment will at least not increase in this case, but not sure. I'll shut up and let someone else chime in, but people were telling me that for a mild drop, springs and dampers are enough.

Last edited by serialk11r; 03-28-2012 at 01:14 AM.
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:27 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by serialk11r View Post
so I'm guessing the roll moment will at least not increase in this case, but not sure.
It most certainly will increase. With LCAs already horizontal, depending on how much kingpin angle this car has, roll center could end-up underground with a moderate lowering. Springs/dampers are enough for the car that is only driven on the street and the main objective is aesthetics.
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:57 AM   #103
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Originally Posted by serialk11r View Post
Well, camber correction might be a good idea, but correcting roll center might not be necessary. You're moving the center of gravity down too, so I'm guessing the roll moment will at least not increase in this case, but not sure. I'll shut up and let someone else chime in, but people were telling me that for a mild drop, springs and dampers are enough.
With MacPherson Struts the roll center will always move more than the CG. A well designed multilink/SLA suspension can completely eliminate roll center migration, and anything halfway decent will at least be a lot better than struts in this regard. The concern that I would have is that any sort of drop will increase the front roll moment but not really affect the rear, which will lead to a change in lateral load transfer distribution. With a mild drop this should have about the same effect as installing a slightly wimpier front sway bar which may or may not be a good thing depending on how you feel about the stock setup. Either way, a slightly stiffer front sway bar would probably suffice and may be a better option than extended lower ball joints (which might cause a tendency to lift the inside rear tire mid-corner if used on a car with nearly stock ride height). You'd also probably want a bit more total roll stiffness and/or a bit more static negative camber up front, to counteract the slight compromise you'd be making to your front camber gradient.
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:46 AM   #104
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How are the stock dampers handling the new springs?

Are you going to offer dampers too?

I am thinking
- 20mm drop springs
- camber plates
- RCA of some sort
- High quality damper

I am not looking to slam the car, just take away some of the wheel-fender gap, maintain good suspension travel, while improving the handling over stock.
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:09 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by uspspro View Post
How are the stock dampers handling the new springs?

Are you going to offer dampers too?

I am thinking
- 20mm drop springs
- camber plates
- RCA of some sort
- High quality damper

I am not looking to slam the car, just take away some of the wheel-fender gap, maintain good suspension travel, while improving the handling over stock.
will this option be considerbly cheaper then getting coilovers? cant wait for the RCE pricing, we have some really bad potholes where i live so good suspenstion travel is a must.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:09 AM   #106
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If it's not draggin' frame, it's not low enough bro d00d!





But seriously, that looks just about right! Too bad I'll be going with coilovers...

Anyone else notice this? If that's a Limited, that's about 60-70lbs below target! - EDIT: This is apparently without jack & tools, but usually manufacturer's listed weight is dry weight, so 2762 for a Premium and ~ 2780 for a Limited (before fluids?), and this is showing 2714 with full fluids and no jack/tools (13 gals of fuel weighs about 65lbs, for reference). That is AWESOME!


So the FR-S should be below 2700 pounds for sure!
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:12 AM   #107
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Ugh, and here I was hoping I could just install the springs and be done with it. In my opinion all these parts just for a 20 mm drop isn't worth it. Unless Racecomp comes on here and says there won't be any issues with the springs, I'll just leave mine stock.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:17 AM   #108
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if you don't track your car and care about winning top spots, then you don't have to worry about this whole geometry thing

the lower sitting position and stiffer springs will MAKE YOU FEEL like its faster, even though skid pad numbers will tell otherwise

so if you enver hit the 10/10 and only care about FEELING, then just ignore all of this technical supplement.

This is generally the problem with such forumes for every 1 true gear head you get 20-30 people who are kinda like "wait wha?" and get all confused and intimidated.

don't

do what you want to the car

but if you plan on competing, then you need to start cramming.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:35 AM   #109
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Originally Posted by 7thgear View Post
if you don't track your car and care about winning top spots, then you don't have to worry about this whole geometry thing

the lower sitting position and stiffer springs will MAKE YOU FEEL like its faster, even though skid pad numbers will tell otherwise

so if you enver hit the 10/10 and only care about FEELING, then just ignore all of this technical supplement.

This is generally the problem with such forumes for every 1 true gear head you get 20-30 people who are kinda like "wait wha?" and get all confused and intimidated.

don't

do what you want to the car

but if you plan on competing, then you need to start cramming.
^This.

The discussions about roll centers and camber correction and roll moments are firmly in the Theory vs Reality department. The car's behavior is not going to change dramatically from just a 20mm drop. Don't worry at all.

What we're doing is called "Chasing Tenths", as in 10ths of a second. For 99.9% of the drivers out there, it's a completely moot point.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:48 AM   #110
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^This.

The discussions about roll centers and camber correction and roll moments are firmly in the Theory vs Reality department. The car's behavior is not going to change dramatically from just a 20mm drop. Don't worry at all.

What we're doing is called "Chasing Tenths", as in 10ths of a second. For 99.9% of the drivers out there, it's a completely moot point.
If you're chasing tenths in this car you're going to be replacing and upgrading a lot more parts on it than just the suspension.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:56 AM   #111
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If you're chasing tenths in this car you're going to be replacing and upgrading a lot more parts on it than just the suspension.
chasing tenths as in within a predetermined frame work.

by your definition a Formula 1 car is technically "never finished"
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:58 AM   #112
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chasing tenths as in within a predetermined frame work.

by your definition a Formula 1 car is technically "never finished"
I would completely agree with that statement, show me a team who isn't continuously developing their car throughout the season
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