Dezoris | FR-S Build | Supercharged & More

[OICU812]

I recall all the resistance to using suspension aside from stock. But...Ohlins well good move really interested in the street and track review of them. Curious why only 10mm drop is that their recommended ideal height or just personal choice?

[448hpsti]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Yes in fact I just replaced both lower control arms with new oem as mine were overtightened from factory for the shock bolts and sway bar bolts were stripped. End links were clunking after lowering. Arms were distorted.

I looked at the after market LCAs and did not want to risk adding the complexity of having unproven threaded adjusters or spherical bushings. Ohlins did all their engineering for 8 months on oem LCAs so thats what I am keeping.

I do have the Whitine KCA326 upper control arms eccentric camber bolts in rear which is one of the worst designs I have ever seen in terms of trying to adjust. The hardware rusts and corrodes quickly. Need to spray with penetrating oil frequently or they will seize and trash the arms. ($250 a piece no mark up per arm) the adjusters are in near impossible place to get tools at near frame and the install is nasty.

You gotta really nice build, so let me add to it.
Check out racerx steel lca, I run them and they are not bling, but 100%function. Hold a set in your hand you see what I mean.thank me later.

[Wes]

Car is looking much better now that its dropped! Definitely glad that another vid is coming, definitely like your sense of humor but have a non bias review haha.

[Turbowned]

Ermahgerd, Ehrlerns cerlervers!!! I'm looking forward to your opinions of these. Do you street drive this car much or is it mostly/strictly a track toy?

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by 448hpsti

You gotta really nice build, so let me add to it.
Check out racerx steel lca, I run them and they are not bling, but 100%function. Hold a set in your hand you see what I mean.thank me later.

I will look them up you have a link? These privately made?

Originally Posted by Turbowned

Ermahgerd, Ehrlerns cerlervers!!! I'm looking forward to your opinions of these. Do you street drive this car much or is it mostly/strictly a track toy?

The goal of the build was to make it 100% daily drivable car that anyone would get in and not even know it was heavily modified, until they got on it.

Also a car you could drive to the track swap brake pads and run close to the fully track prepped FRS/BRZ be done and drive home changing nothing. Aside from maybe street pads and shock stiffness.

[Turbowned]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

The goal of the build was to make it 100% daily drivable car that anyone would get in and not even know it was heavily modified, until they got on it.

Also a car you could drive to the track swap brake pads and run close to the fully track prepped FRS/BRZ be done and drive home changing nothing. Aside from maybe street pads and shock stiffness.

Excellent; that's the purpose of my build as well. Modify it in such a way that the uninitiated won't know it isn't stock.

[448hpsti]

I really love seeing good builds! That's the best part about car forums, we all bake tasty cake with different ingredients. It's awesome to see others execute a function first build. Kudos to op. great build and way better documentation and video than most threads.

I commend op for sound build goals, and function>form

Daily drivable track, with emphasis on road course and capable of doing it all day long in triple digit temps is an awesome incantation of the 86! Lets not get too wrapped up in how the car 'sits' and do silly things like add rake to 'make it look cool', rather what's cool is making it perform better than stock in every way and condition, its not hard to do.

What's really cool is a car that can hang with m cars, 911, worked sti and fwiw my car eats miata and s2000 like they are appetizers unless they too are well worked Fi, they bore me now days.

It loves to be built with a taught race suspension,but not over sprung like most track builds. Add better braking and non show off resonated but unrestricted exhaust and all I have to do is put on my dancing shoes(r comp tires) and the romance goes from innocent puppy love to full on s&m porn star mode sexy time at the track and is still not a car I must trailer. Not sure I'm doing that yet. Seems the idea was always in the eyes of those that designed a car was one that could carry race tires to the track. So be it.

Still gentle enough to drive with senior citizen mom,you can baby it at 2500 thru all the gears keep really below 4000 revs unless you need it, with the 2.87 pulley its way more lively than stock below 4000 and quite a bit more punch gets delivered when you put your foot down at 3500 over the 3.48 pulley, and you never guess there is a demon chained up within an otherwise stock looking car. The 3.48 is perfect for dd, makes you lean more towards a daily in power delivery and less strain on everything.

The mpg drop a bunch too,with the smaller pulley, that really can be a 'strap on' kind of option for race weekends, so if you really do drive it daily, which I don't, you may be okay with more mpg and less power and a motor that will give more miles on the clock. You always have the option go from pulley to pulley once You add a manuall or electronic boost controller it just enhances the daily drive and track options
3.48
3.33
I ran both no wg
The 3.125 is getting hardcore
The 2.87 shows you what the car can do!

so if you need power downlow, don't let anyone tell you that it can not be done on a centri powered 86. One drive in my car nd every tester has been pretty content with my trade off between 'hey look at me power' and power that sub overheat level and can be raced repeatedly reliably. And daily driven. I bet drivers of dezoris car feel the same. His build is at the edge of daily, just waiting for a boost controller and a pulley, to go up a level, no other changes need, thats pretty cool

it's in there. give it throttle and it screams like a banshee from 5k on up with a pronounced peak at 6800, there's really not a bunch of power at redlne anyways so the 5000 to 6800 becomes a perfect place to hang it at all times at the track. Car really shines in all gears, and its just fine for gettin groceries too. Reminds me of porsche products and m cars.

Originally Posted by Dezoris

I will look them up you have a link? These privately made?



The goal of the build was to make it 100% daily drivable car that anyone would get in and not even know it was heavily modified, until they got on it.
.

I'm just not a fan of most of the aftermarket alumin parts on a car I do 140mph+ regularly with. http://www.racerxfabrication.com/

Try the rubber end option lca for dd, heim available for race car.keep up great build
buddy!

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by OICU812

I recall all the resistance to using suspension aside from stock. But...Ohlins well good move really interested in the street and track review of them. Curious why only 10mm drop is that their recommended ideal height or just personal choice?

To answer your first question:

I honestly feel that for 90% of the owners of this car already have one of the best suspension/chassis setups right out of the box for anything sub 40k. It works so well with minimal changes on track, autox and street driving.

It is one of the main things they did right with this car. Yes it's completely absurd to have zero camber adjustment or no aluminum suspension parts. But the price point dictated that.

When a car works so well, the last thing you want to do is just bolt on a suspension setup. Almost all suspension kits are statically designed. X company retrofits a WRX piece and CADs the rest. Picks a spring rate and some modified valving and you have a $1200 coil over setup.

To do a suspension setup properly is a major pain in the balls and the testing required to figure out balance between street and track takes time and money. One of the reasons I contacted Ohlins is because I have had seat time on their dampers in sports cars before, they street and track test all of their kits. They provide dampers on supercars like the new Lambo, other sports cars like Porsche, Ariel, Lotus etc. They also designed the kit around a completely stock FRS/BRZ. Which means it's not designed around some Frankenstein car.

So tweaking from there is much easier, start with alignment and balancing. Shock settings then maybe ARBs and links.

There are some knowledgeable people on this forum namely when it comes to track setup. This is not a balls to the wall track car.

There are compromises you MUST make to have a good street car, I refuse to ruin the daily drivability.

Second Question Ride Height:

We all live in the real world, if you drive on the street this car is already low from the factory compared to most cars on the road. Things like driveways, drive throughs, car washes are designed for average cars and SUVs. I have already had my share of scrapes at stock ride height.

I looked at almost every suspension kit and lower spring for this car. The average is about 15-20mm or 1".

What I did was look at where my stock suspension was already at before.
I looked at Ohlins recommended which was 20mm front and about 15mm in the rear. What I found was two things, that was too low to clear most alignment racks and lifts without using boards.

After measuring the racks, lifts and jacks we used, we settled on 10mm which allowed for 1mm clearance on the alignment rack and 1/2" on the lifts we used. The track guys will argue this drop is minimal. I would argue its maximum for a street car in my area to maintain functionality.

Better yet is there an optimal height? No, you will never get that answer on that.

What we know is the stock ride height sure does not hurt the car.
We also know lowering the car past 1.2" or 30mm requires roll center correction or potential other suspension changes. I am ok with the conservative adjustment to start.

Originally Posted by 448hpsti

I really love seeing good builds! That's the best part about car forums, we all bake tasty cake with different ingredients. It's awesome to see others execute a function first build. Kudos to op. great build and way better documentation and video than most threads.

I commend op for sound build goals, and function>form

Daily drivable track, with emphasis on road course and capable of doing it all day long in triple digit temps is an awesome incantation of the 86! Lets not get too wrapped up in how the car 'sits' and do silly things like add rake to 'make it look cool', rather what's cool is making it perform better than stock in every way and condition, its not hard to do.

Still gentle enough to drive with senior citizen mom,you can baby it at 2500 thru all the gears keep really below 4000 revs unless you need it, with the 2.87 pulley its way more lively than stock below 4000 and quite a bit more punch gets delivered when you put your foot down at 3500 over the 3.48 pulley, and you never guess there is a demon chained up within an otherwise stock looking car. The 3.48 is perfect for dd, makes you lean more towards a daily in power delivery and less strain on everything.

3.48
3.33
I ran both no wg
The 3.125 is getting hardcore
The 2.87 shows you what the car can do!

I'm just not a fan of most of the aftermarket alumin parts on a car I do 140mph+ regularly with. http://www.racerxfabrication.com/

Try the rubber end option lca for dd, heim available for race car.keep up great build
buddy!

Thanks, I have appreciated following your setup and talking to you and paving the way and learning more and more from others. With age and experience comes a bit more thought behind function which you apply. I have made a shit load of mistakes on almost every area of the build and still learning. I hope others can use it as a reference of what worked and what didn't.

[OICU812]

Thanks for detailed response on your suspension decisions and heights etc chosen makes perfect sense really. Knowing your attitude on not wanting to lose any DD quality on ride I do look forward to hearing your thoughts on Ohlins at the heights etc you've chosen for sure.

[PandaBRZ]

Love this build for keeping everything down to earth. Not all of us want an all-out track car. Getting Dezoris' feedback really helps! Keep up the great work and I look forward to more of your videos.

[autobrz]

Do the US spec ohlins come with 6k/6k or 9k/7k springs? I got confused when I saw japan spec are 9k/7k and thought maybe US spec is softer because of our roads but the internet stores all show 9k/7k.

If it's the latter than it will make me very happy as I plan to run swayless with those rates that are only slightly stiffer than stock total rate at the wheels.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by autobrz

Do the US spec ohlins come with 6k/6k or 9k/7k springs? I got confused when I saw japan spec are 9k/7k and thought maybe US spec is softer because of our roads but the internet stores all show 9k/7k.

If it's the latter than it will make me very happy as I plan to run swayless with those rates that are only slightly stiffer than stock total rate at the wheels.

They are 6k/6k or 343/343lbs. You can however talk directly with Ohlins and have them customized. For my area it's about the max I would run for a street car.

[autobrz]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

They are 6k/6k or 343/343lbs. You can however talk directly with Ohlins and have them customized. For my area it's about the max I would run for a street car.

Would you say the Ohlins can be adjusted to be as comfortable as stock? Maybe I should wait for your video?

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by autobrz

Would you say the Ohlins can be adjusted to be as comfortable as stock? Maybe I should wait for your video?

I started at 15/15 clicks out of 20 (full soft) and it is already better than stock. It crashes less over bad pavement and bumps. Its a more more controlled ride. More testing needs to be done before I really say one way or another how good or bad they are.