2022 BRZ, Scargod's Mod's and Track Upgrades

[Scargod]

I installed external fasteners to my front fascia so the snap-together attachment point to the fender would stop popping apart.
I have a good-sized splitter on the front and the car lowered, and the fascia has been on and off a lot. This fix lets me stop using duct tape to hold the joints together.
Install is easy:
Just remove the fascia and remove the black plastic clip block on each of the fenders by removing the two, recessed #6 bolts. There is one clip that should be squeezed to get it to release. Put the block in place on the fascia and transfer the two bolt hole locations to the facia, and drill holes for longer 6mm bolts. I used 50mm flat-head bolts and countersunk aluminum washers. The tapered aluminum washers are only 1/8" thick. Both pieces of hardware are from McMaster-Carr. Bolts can be bought in a light blue zinc coating. I darkened the heads.
The two longer bolts sandwich everything together using the existing fender nuts.
It's not quick release but it's close, it looks good, and I won't have to worry about the front of the car coming loose again while on track or if I bump a curb or have an off-road excursion.

[Scargod]

Latest mod is the 3.4 pound Shorai LFX24L3-BS12 Extreme Rate Lithium Iron battery.
I used 1/2" thick black Expanded PVC Foam Board (Ebay) to form a base that surrounds the bottom of the battery case. It is screwed in place using existing nuts in the sheet metal where the battery sits. I also use a piece to span the top of the case and distribute the load from the stock top clamp.
This has worked out really well. You just can't leave the battery connected for long periods of time (2-3 weeks) without a trickle charger or the car's electronics will pull it down.

[Scargod]

I've been busy racing! Well, track days... A number of personal bests and laps equal to or better than pole position times for Spec Miata's. This at Thompson and Watkins Glen. New Personal bests at Club Motorsports. My last adventure took me to Pineview Run in Upstae NY near Syracuse. Then an hour and a half drive to Watkins Glen for two days on the first and second of this month. I was running new 255/17 A055's. Nice tires! There my best was a 2:14. There was so much high-powered car traffic that it was hard to get in consistent laps and work on every turn.
All along the car has been amazing and durable.
Check out videos under "Track Days".

[Scargod]

This from my latest track day adventure, a three day event with NER Porsche Club at Club Motorsports.
Just counted that I've done 54 days there since they opened in 2017.

Sure did have fun eating me up some of those Cayman's in the Black/Advanced run group! Managed another 1:44 lap.
For the first time, I ran 255/40-17 Yokohama A055 slicks and by my seventh session I had delaminated the edge of my left front tire. It was qite hot and the track was at 120 part of the time along with not enough camber on the front for these tires and pushing too hard on the slower right-handers caused scrubbing.

Beyond this comment, I may be discussing transmissions at some point, but I have a shot fifth-gear synchro and the shifter is getting vague. Anyone with issues after 30+ track days and 12-15K miles?
I will rebuild it for racing, but in the meantime I need to find me one and get it in. Frustrating that this happened at under 15K miles.

[Pat]

How often have you changed the tranny fluid?

[Scargod]

Originally Posted by Pat

How often have you changed the tranny fluid?

About every 4K miles.
I'm wondering if the synchros are sensitive to the type of oil being used, like one coated with carbon vs one made of bronze.
I used Redline 75-90 full synthetic the last time and it seems I started noticing fifth-gear synchro issues around that time.
I have Motul 75W80 Technosynthese and Royal Purple 75w90 Max Gear I can try.

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by Scargod

About every 4K miles.
I'm wondering if the synchros are sensitive to the type of oil being used, like one coated with carbon vs one made of bronze.
I used Redline 75-90 full synthetic the last time and it seems I started noticing fifth-gear synchro issues around that time.
I have Motul 75W80 Technosynthese and Royal Purple 75w90 Max Gear I can try.

I believe you’re correct about the synchros. Using a GL4 only fluid as opposed to a GL4/5 is the way to go in my opinion. Redline makes a few options for gear fluid might want to check the bottle.

I’m not sure anything can really save these transmissions but probably best to use a good GL4 whenever possible.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by Scargod

About every 4K miles.
I'm wondering if the synchros are sensitive to the type of oil being used, like one coated with carbon vs one made of bronze.
I used Redline 75-90 full synthetic the last time and it seems I started noticing fifth-gear synchro issues around that time.
I have Motul 75W80 Technosynthese and Royal Purple 75w90 Max Gear I can try.

I suggest change intervals based on usage type, not just distance. Heat will degrade the fluid much more quickly. 4,000 track miles are much different than 4,000 road miles when it comes to tranny fluid.
Also, I believe fresh fluid is much more important that brand of fluid, as long as it meets specs.