Phantom FTS Electric Supercharger Owners Thread

[eft86]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Recheck your connections and check to see if the foot switch has a good ground. Maybe try it against a good known ground.

Also make sure all the wires are in the correct direction. Take pics?


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Hello Sojhinn, thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I am not very mechanically inclined and have very little knowledge as far as electricals goes, should I get a multimeter to check different points of the foot switch?

Here are the pictures

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by eft86

Hello Sojhinn, thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I am not very mechanically inclined and have very little knowledge as far as electricals goes, should I get a multimeter to check different points of the foot switch?

Here are the pictures

Based on the pictures it looks like you have one of the newer kits. Most likely this is the grounding issue I was talking about.

The foot switch requires any part of its metal frame to be touching a ground point of the car (which is typically any metal part). Unfortunately the nut and bolt on the accelerator pedal can be covered in paint which can make it harder to get a good ground.

What I would like you to try is to undo the foot switch and hold it against one of the metal screws in the door frame of the car with the drivers side door open. And then with the car on just tap the switch to see what happens.


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[eft86]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Based on the pictures it looks like you have one of the newer kits. Most likely this is the grounding issue I was talking about.

The foot switch requires any part of its metal frame to be touching a ground point of the car (which is typically any metal part). Unfortunately the nut and bolt on the accelerator pedal can be covered in paint which can make it harder to get a good ground.

What I would like you to try is to undo the foot switch and hold it against one of the metal screws in the door frame of the car with the drivers side door open. And then with the car on just tap the switch to see what happens.


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Good morning Sojhinn,

I held the switch against all 3 bolts in the door frame and engaged while car is on, no dice .

I am going to recheck all my connections. Based on what you know so far, is it worth it to recheck my battery arrangement? It's reading a stable 28.5 and beeps for a few seconds upon start up.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by eft86

Good morning Sojhinn,



I held the switch against all 3 bolts in the door frame and engaged while car is on, no dice .



I am going to recheck all my connections. Based on what you know so far, is it worth it to recheck my battery arrangement? It's reading a stable 28.5 and beeps for a few seconds upon start up.

All I can say is triple check everything. And make sure all the colors match up. If that fails contact Rob.


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[KoolBRZ]

I think one of the connectors is supposed to be left disconnected. The new versions have a connection for PROcede adapters as well, so it may be looking for PROcede input instead of throttle switch input. There should only be 3 inputs connected to the controller. Thick cables to the 28v pack, medium cables to the 12v input, and thin cables to the throttle switch and voltage readout/switch. There is also a thin cable connector for PROcede users as well. This should be taped off to prevent accidental grounding.

This is acting like there is no throttle switch connection. Isn't there 5v going to the throttle switch which can be measured with a voltmeter? A $10 Radio Shack voltmeter could save you a lot of frustration.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

I think one of the connectors is supposed to be left disconnected. The new versions have a connection for PROcede adapters as well, so it may be looking for PROcede input instead of throttle switch input. There should only be 3 inputs connected to the controller. Thick cables to the 28v pack, medium cables to the 12v input, and thin cables to the throttle switch and voltage readout/switch. There is also a thin cable connector for PROcede users as well. This should be taped off to prevent accidental grounding.

This is acting like there is no throttle switch connection. Isn't there 5v going to the throttle switch which can be measured with a voltmeter? A $10 Radio Shack voltmeter could save you a lot of frustration.

Kool, the new controller has 4 separate connections for the system...

One goes to the voltage reader/fuse connection, one goes to the foot switch, one 12 volt connection to the battery posts, and one to the dump packs.


Also the ground is now shared among the entire system and the car. Which is why I was double checking the ground issue. And I agree a multimeter would be EXTREMELY useful here but I've found so many people don't have one.






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[eft86]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

I think one of the connectors is supposed to be left disconnected. The new versions have a connection for PROcede adapters as well, so it may be looking for PROcede input instead of throttle switch input. There should only be 3 inputs connected to the controller. Thick cables to the 28v pack, medium cables to the 12v input, and thin cables to the throttle switch and voltage readout/switch. There is also a thin cable connector for PROcede users as well. This should be taped off to prevent accidental grounding.

This is acting like there is no throttle switch connection. Isn't there 5v going to the throttle switch which can be measured with a voltmeter? A $10 Radio Shack voltmeter could save you a lot of frustration.

Thanks for the tips! I don't recall seeing another connector other than the throttle switch and volt switch, but I will check again to make sure I didn't screw up plugging something where I wasn't supposed.


I'll also pick up a multimeter to read the throttle switch connection once I am off work.

[continuecrushing]

yeah, multimeters are really nice to have. They aren't too expensive, but if any of you have a harbor freight around/near you, they frequently have coupons for a "free" multimeter if you buy 20 bucks of stuff or whatever.

Like I said, you can get a fairly inexpensive one too lol...but for just testing a "yes/no" electrical setup, the "free" one works lol.

[eft86]

Originally Posted by continuecrushing

yeah, multimeters are really nice to have. They aren't too expensive, but if any of you have a harbor freight around/near you, they frequently have coupons for a "free" multimeter if you buy 20 bucks of stuff or whatever.

Like I said, you can get a fairly inexpensive one too lol...but for just testing a "yes/no" electrical setup, the "free" one works lol.

Thanks for the tip! Not sure where the nearest harbor freight but looks like Google is telling me I have to go to the states! and my passport is expired haha. I think I will just pick up a cheapo multimeter from radioshack or equivalent on my way home.

[eft86]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

I think one of the connectors is supposed to be left disconnected. The new versions have a connection for PROcede adapters as well, so it may be looking for PROcede input instead of throttle switch input. There should only be 3 inputs connected to the controller. Thick cables to the 28v pack, medium cables to the 12v input, and thin cables to the throttle switch and voltage readout/switch. There is also a thin cable connector for PROcede users as well. This should be taped off to prevent accidental grounding.

This is acting like there is no throttle switch connection. Isn't there 5v going to the throttle switch which can be measured with a voltmeter? A $10 Radio Shack voltmeter could save you a lot of frustration.

Quick update.
After buying a multimeter, I started with my controller and checked all the connections on there. I have a 12 v power source, checked and it reads 12, I have the big red connectors and it reads 24v, I have the foot switch and volt display, foot switch reading fluctuates between 3.xx to 4.xx, volt display lights up so I assume it's working and did not check. The blue/red/black going into the blower are connected tight and color matched. These are all the connections that I have on my controller.

Currently trying to find time to get my mechanic friend to take a look to see if I did something stupid. I really appreciate the time and effort of everybody that has offered advice so far, any further input on where else I should check for a potential fault is highly appreciated!

I am already in touch with Rob and he is very helpful and gracious, I just want to do everything I can before I send anything back for him to inspect.

[Reamer]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Doesn't matter. The procede works off throttle input and other sensors. Not tune.

This man is doing god's work spreading knowledge.

[KoolBRZ]

I just got back from a marathon, (24 hours), of driving, (with rest stops), between Vancouver, WA. and Rio Vista, CA. Bringing my mother-in-law, and all her stuff, to her new place. Because I was driving my mother-in-law's 2011 Corolla,which was towing the trailer, most of the time my wife drove my BRZ. As anyone from CA knows, the maximum legal speed towing a trailer is 55mph, so that's what we set our cruise controls for. By the time we filled up outside Sacramento, she had averaged 42.1 MPG in my BRZ, on cheap Cali premium.

This is a car with an unrestricted exhaust, a Phantom Electric Supercharger under the hood, running a PROcede map that boosts at anything over 1200 rpm's, if anything, this should cause it to use more fuel. It's just simple math. More air requires more fuel, right? This average mpg means it was making more power. Enough power to average 42 mpg. I even made 40.5 average mpg towing the empty trailer.

There was one other big change to my 40-20 tune. It was finally making enough power that the OEM Drive-By-Wire throttle table for AT's was causing it to lunge from a dead stop, so I switched to an OEM MT throttle table to make to easier for my wife to drive. The MT throttle table has more of a straight rate then the AT table, but less power at initial launch.

My car has never run this smoothly. Every shift, up or down, it never bogged or surged. The cruise control shifted as necessary to climb the steepest grades with ease, and even downshifted as low as 4th gear automatically to use engine braking on the descents.

This 40-20 tune is all about drive-ability, not peak horsepower on a dyno. I think this latest marathon of driving has proven it's a much better driving tune than the OEM tune, and even better than a lot of off-the-shelf tunes.

[shaynek]

anyone know if we need a new tune if we were to get an open flash flex fuel kit?

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by shaynek

anyone know if we need a new tune if we were to get an open flash flex fuel kit?

Is it out?


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