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Old 11-09-2013, 01:57 AM   #1037
phrosty
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Will Unichip be getting tunes for Perrin's new 3" parts?
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Old 11-10-2013, 01:48 PM   #1038
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whats the actual expected change in timing between in, out and standard? I just plugged my flux2 just into odb2 (3 map switch currently connected) and when i switch between 3 different maps, the TADV reading stayed at around 49 consistently at around 3000 rpm. All 3 maps were fuel standard. One was 92 octane timing standard, one was 92 timing in, and the 3rd was 87 octane timing out
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Old 11-11-2013, 02:12 PM   #1039
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Thanks for the posts.

ECU learning… The OE ECU doesn’t adapt to a Unichip tune… remember the OE ECU doesn’t even know the Unichip is installed so there’s nothing to relearn. What may need to be relearned, however, are trims already in the OE ECU.

Remember, the OE ECU constantly learns…with the correct data in the Unichip, the values it learns are just very close to zero. Let’s say, for example you have a CAI and no Unichip and have driven the car long enough so the OE ECU is fully adapted.

With a correctly programmed Unichip installed, the data to eliminate those fuel trims is programmed into the Unichip so the learning drives the trims near zero. However, if they already existed and aren’t reset when you install the Unichip, it takes them a little time to get there.

If you disconnect the battery for a few minutes, the ECU’s volatile memory dumps (which contains the fuel trims) and when everything is reconnected, the trims are zero, the learning is near zero, and the solution is stable.

If you don’t disconnect the battery, the previously learned trims will be “relearn” down near zero. This process happens over the course of about a week just like when the trims originally built… once the learning gets the trims back near zero, the solution again becomes stable.

Ignition timing changes between the -, ~, and + maps… remember, values read with a scan tool are from the OBD2 data stream which doesn’t reflect the Unichip changes for ignition timing. What we change is the arrival time of the crank sensor pulse… what the factory computer does remains exactly the same…but it does that either earlier or later than “it should” because the Unichip causes the trigger to arrive either early or late.

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Old 11-18-2013, 03:50 PM   #1040
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Jack,
Thanks for yours and Aaron's help trying to diagnose my problem. The car runs great now with the new tunes.

-Sam
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:15 PM   #1041
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Sam,

Thanks for the post and the call. It's our pleasure. Enjoy.

Cheers
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Old 11-23-2013, 07:59 AM   #1042
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Getting a CEL with P0103 after the install, any ideas?
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Old 11-25-2013, 05:40 PM   #1043
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Zeviance... thanks for the post.

Check the intake for vacuum leaks... there's nothing the Unichip does to cause that but if there's any sort of leak... even a really small one... it will throw that light.

Cheers
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Old 11-25-2013, 11:58 PM   #1044
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Unijack.

Just got the usb cable. I cant figure out within the software, main and bank 1. Which loads to 0 and which loads to 1.

Please help.

My guess is 0 = Main and 1 = bank 2.

0/1 is the switch in the engine.

Please confirm.

Thanks!
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Old 11-26-2013, 12:56 AM   #1045
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For mine 'O' was the main
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Old 11-26-2013, 12:54 PM   #1046
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The parts I have on my FR-s are the following, Airraid CAI and Cat back exhaust.

I am using mapping from 92 and Fuel '-" and Timing "+".

Is this the most aggressive map you you have? Are there any other ones for suggestions?

Thanks!
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Old 11-26-2013, 03:55 PM   #1047
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Thanks for the post.

Yes, the 0 switch position is the Main MapSet and the 1 is Map 2.

Remember there’s a difference between “aggressive”and what makes the most power in a particular car. Yes, the F-, T+ map is the most aggressive inthat it should get the most complete burn with the most powerful mixture… ifyour specific car is happy with that.

To a point, every FT86 is the same but onceyou really start coloring really close to the lines, there are individualstacking tolerances that make each car slightly different. Once you get to that point, the map that isthe best for power on your car may not be the same as the one that makes themost power on another car and it may or may not be the most “aggressive” map.

That’s what we offer the different maps andrecommend that you test each and see what fits best to your specific car. Don’t jump in and assume that the mostaggressive is the best… try some pulls with that map and average thetimes. Then try a different map – over thesame course under the same conditions – and see how another set of averagedtimes compares. You may be surprised.

As always, if anybody has any questions,please let me know and have a great holiday.

Cheers
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:19 PM   #1048
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Ok… My write up on the Unichip…
I went thru a thorough research of various avenues prior to taking part with this ‘Snake Oil Device (Make sure you read the entire review)”. I have a 2013 FR-S with Airraid CAI and a custom cat and back exhaust.
Install: It was as simple as it comes. It was a very simple process for it was literally plug-n-play. The instructions and videos out there really provided a good clean procedure of how to install this Unichip. So, overall on a rating scale of 1-10, this device deserves a 9.5. I deducted the .5 for the mounting of the unichip could be better configured. I would have allowed a bit more wiring to position the unichip elsewhere and not on top of the plastic box.

Quality & Build: The device seems to be pretty good quality. I live in Southern CA, so time will tell of how well this thing will hold up over time. Being the device is under the hood, I can’t imagine that it will go thru much rough weather. I would give this device a rating of 9 for the wiring could be a bit better, for the switch could be more clearly labeled instead of just a I/O switch. I will explain a bit later for the switch will cause a slight confusion.

Experience:
Day 1 – I used the factory setting that it came with. One mode - A for normal and one mode - B for aggressive. With mode A, I did not encounter anything different but a normal drive. With mode B, the car started to knock. Needless to say, mode B was not a good fit.

Day 2 – USB cable arrives… The USB $30 is needed to program he unichip with the vehicle mappings from the site. I used the suggested maps from Jack himself for I called him several times on the phone. In CA, I only have 91 Octane so I had to use the 92 folder maps. I used standard for all with map A and fuel-plus and timing-less for map B. And here is the rub, after reading thru multiple instructions. I could not find which map loads to which switch meaning does map A load on to switch “0” or “ I “ ? Or vice versus. It wasn’t till I posted something on this site and someone provided an “I think” clarification. So Unijack, if you’re reading… Highlight it in BOLD where ever your instruction states this. Now for the drive, normal is normal. And now for the tuning map, the car seems to be a bit sharper. What I mean by this is that it is slightly noticeable. If I have to compare to my 2012 GTI ECU flash, you definitely could feel that $500 being spend. With unichip it’s quite subtle. It is better but is it $500 (unichip & usb cable) better? That is still up for judgment.
I will have to give a rating of 6.5 for I am not sure is there really any power gain. And if there is power gain, I believe it to be quite minimal.
Support:
You can call these guys and they will answer your questions. But and big BUT. At times, I almost felt like I was bothering them. BUT they do provide the proper support. I know what some of you are saying. This goofy guy probably called them like 50+ times. Long story short, I called them 4x. Call one – sales inquiry and calls 2-4 was all unichip program related.
I will give them a rating of 7. They will help, but DO NOT expect the VIP treatment even though you just spend VIP money.

Overall: 7.5
If you’re trying to squeeze every HP/TQ out of your car without purchasing force induction, then I would recommend this device for I believe it does do the job it advertises. But the gain is minimal, if any. The drive is more linear… The power seems to progressively grows, but it is not what you would expect. Throttle back your expectations and give it a goes if you want a device that does not intrude with your factory ECU. Snake Oil this device is NOT, but just like the label on this car. FR-S – Fun, but REALLY SLOW. That is the DNA within this car that this device does not change.
Please do IM me if you have any questions.

Enjoy,

Exam2300
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:25 PM   #1049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swift996 View Post
Please post pics/details when you install.

BTW - I'm running the Fuel ~ Timing + with the AEM calibration, the variable valve timing feels more like VTEC now. Very happy.

Hoping to have the headers in soon and on.

I'll be getting some dyno runs on May 4th and then on the 18th as well (where I might use a uncatted front pipe and muffler delete I picked up).
so you plug your unichip into the AEM calibration module and use the AEM calibration module back to MAF? I though the Unichip is without the AEM calibration. If that is the case i must give it a try and see.
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Old 12-11-2013, 08:15 PM   #1050
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so you plug your unichip into the AEM calibration module and use the AEM calibration module back to MAF? I though the Unichip is without the AEM calibration. If that is the case i must give it a try and see.
I've been running the innovate supercharger (with ecutek) for a while now so I don't quite recall. I think the file has in the name with or without maf calibration. You might want to ask someone else on here to give Jack a call. If I remember correctly I think I just bypassed the AEM MAF calibration, but it's been a while.
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