Spec Twin?

[christoc]

Much better link thanks!

[Imp]

As mentioned during the SSC Town Hall meeting, TR has created a central web page for SSC related topics that has just gone live:
https://www.tirerack.com/content/tir...s/SCCASSC.html

Direct link to suspension install instructions: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=338

Baseline Set-up Recommendations: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=339

[JakeRogue]

Originally Posted by Imp

As mentioned during the SSC Town Hall meeting, TR has created a central web page for SSC related topics that has just gone live:
https://www.tirerack.com/content/tir...s/SCCASSC.html

Direct link to suspension install instructions: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=338

Baseline Set-up Recommendations: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=339

Thanks!

I had a shop install my set up and only knew about the roll bar settings. I did not know the shocks were adjustable. Can anyone explain that to me in more detail? I am nOOb


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[Open Loop]

Originally Posted by JakeRogue

Thanks!

I had a shop install my set up and only knew about the roll bar settings. I did not know the shocks were adjustable. Can anyone explain that to me in more detail? I am nOOb


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https://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Tech...stment-Guides/


The shocks have an adjustable rebound. Compression is not affected by adjustment. Make sure you got at least one of the adjustment tools back from the shop where you had the install done.

[TrqlessWonder]

Originally Posted by Open Loop

https://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Tech...stment-Guides/


The shocks have an adjustable rebound. Compression is not affected by adjustment. Make sure you got at least one of the adjustment tools back from the shop where you had the install done.

If they tossed the knobs, Tire Rack and/or Koni is quite good about getting you a replacement one. You'll want one with the riser/stadoff on it to make the rears easier to reach. Fronts, it really doesn't matter.

[JakeRogue]

Originally Posted by TrqlessWonder

If they tossed the knobs, Tire Rack and/or Koni is quite good about getting you a replacement one. You'll want one with the riser/stadoff on it to make the rears easier to reach. Fronts, it really doesn't matter.

I found the adjusters. But I wonder was this black thing is:




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[blkwrxwag]

The black thing is just a protective adjustment knob condom for packaging. Not needed when installed.

[Open Loop]

Originally Posted by Imp

As mentioned during the SSC Town Hall meeting, TR has created a central web page for SSC related topics that has just gone live:
https://www.tirerack.com/content/tir...s/SCCASSC.html

Direct link to suspension install instructions: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=338

Baseline Set-up Recommendations: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=339

I am interested in whether anyone has observations regarding the baseline alignment recommendations. Does anyone recommend any different settings based on their own initial experience? Thank you.


Edit: I am looking for the best baseline settings for autocross on a smooth asphalt course, and not concerned about additional tire wear or darty steering on highway.

[Open Loop]

Another question for y'all. Per the installation instructions at the Tire Rack website:


After the alignment is completed. The steering angle must be re-calibrated for the OEM stability control to operate normally. If this is not done, the stability control may interfere with performance driving scenarios. For this particular vehicle, the steering angle was -3.2 degrees off until re-calibrated.

How is this re-calibration performed? Thank you.

[christoc]

Originally Posted by Open Loop

Another question for y'all. Per the installation instructions at the Tire Rack website:


After the alignment is completed. The steering angle must be re-calibrated for the OEM stability control to operate normally. If this is not done, the stability control may interfere with performance driving scenarios. For this particular vehicle, the steering angle was -3.2 degrees off until re-calibrated.

How is this re-calibration performed? Thank you.

I found this (haven't done this myself, looks like Techstream can be acquired for cheap)

https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal..._rm_index.html


1. ROTATION ANGLE SENSOR INITIALIZATION AND TORQUE SENSOR ZERO POINT CALIBRATION

NOTICE:

Initialize the rotation angle sensor and calibrate the torque sensor zero point if any of the following conditions occur:

The power steering ECU is replaced.
The steering column assembly is replaced.
Steering effort differs between turning left and right.
HINT:

When rotation angle sensor initialization and torque sensor zero point calibration are performed, the rotation angle sensor value initialization and the torque sensor zero point calibration are performed at the same time.

(a) Inspection before calibration

(1) Turn the ignition switch off.

(2) Connect the Techstream to the DLC3.

(3) Turn the ignition switch to ON.

(4) Turn the Techstream on.

(5) Enter the following menus: Chassis / EMPS / Data List.

(6) Check the values by referring to the table below.

[Twinz]

My second set of wheels won't be here in time for Dixie and my current set of Falkens are well into the wear bars after more than 100 runs. In the dry, they are *still* well-behaved, serviceable tires, but on the wear bars, they were pretty much useless in the wet.

I'll mount the new tires for Dixie, but I want to keep these old ones, mount them on the new wheels, and do some back-to-back testing once I get the new ones to 50-ish runs, just to try and quantify how resilient these tires are.

I think the Falkens were a great choice for a spec tire.

[tony_r]

Mine are done and maybe have 10 runs left in them. They're slicks, basically. Any I got about 120-130 runs out of them, which was about the same as the RE71R/Rivals. A little disappointed given their performance. At least they're cheaper.

[chkltcow]

Originally Posted by Open Loop

I am interested in whether anyone has observations regarding the baseline alignment recommendations. Does anyone recommend any different settings based on their own initial experience? Thank you.


Edit: I am looking for the best baseline settings for autocross on a smooth asphalt course, and not concerned about additional tire wear or darty steering on highway.

I'm running 2.2 camber in the rear like Tire Rack suggests, and even though I've only done one event on them, I think it's too much. This was at ZMax which is perfectly smooth asphalt and pretty high grip. I'm just not even touching the last 1/2" of tread, even dropping the tires down to 28psi. In a few months, I'll take my car back to the alignment shop and I'll probably end up closer to 1.8 in the rear so I can use all of my tire back there.

Other than that.... looks good. I'm currently running zero rear toe, but I think their suggestion of 1/8" total toe in is probably more drivable for most people.... but... I like a loose car.

[Imp]

Originally Posted by tony_r

Mine are done and maybe have 10 runs left in them. They're slicks, basically. Any I got about 120-130 runs out of them, which was about the same as the RE71R/Rivals. A little disappointed given their performance. At least they're cheaper.

I hate the fact that you already have that many runs, and my parts are still in my basement, never mind has my car even seen a cone...


--kC