CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Cjymiller]

Gents,

I recently purchased a coilover set. What is your recommendation for street oriented camber (commute and weekend twisties)? Also, at what height are rear LCA's required to maintain the suggested camber?

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Total weight transfer for a given corner at a given speed is down to COG, track width, and total weight of the car.

What we're doing with springs/rollbars/dampers is trying to control the rate at which it occurs, the distribution of that weight transfer, and minimize the changes in suspension geometry due to body roll.

With regards to distribution of weight transfer and I think where you might be getting mixed up...we can stiffen the rear which means more weight transfer at the rear. Since total must remain the same, this means there must be less weight transfer at the front. Less weight transfer at the front means more evenly loaded front tires. More evenly loaded front tires means more grip up front. That's why stiffer rear = less understeer. There may be additional affects from a stiffer rear like keeping the rear from rolling too much, reducing positive camber gain, and thereby keeping the tire nice and square on the road for a little more rear grip too, but it depends.

- Andy

And another light goes on. Thank you again for this thread.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Cjymiller

Gents,

I recently purchased a coilover set. What is your recommendation for street oriented camber (commute and weekend twisties)? Also, at what height are rear LCA's required to maintain the suggested camber?

Do you have camber bolts or plates up front?

What kind and what size tires? What spring rates?

- Andy

[andrew20195]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Might be impossible to do on a car with a boxer motor due to packaging

- Andy

Might be possible with some very wide front fenders.

[7thgear]

shove a rotary in the thing, weld the front towers using a thick brace and use that to mount the secondary control arm from to punch through the fenders.


presto!

[Cjymiller]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Do you have camber bolts or plates up front?

What kind and what size tires? What spring rates?

- Andy

I'll have camber plates on the front. 235/40/18 tires. 7k/8k Springs.

[solidONE]

Best car specific suspension thread of all time! Content for layman to the super suspension nerds.

[FRS-HHH]

Originally Posted by FR-S Matt

You need an open socket set in order to get the hex key through the socket to remove the top hats while they're compressed by the spring compressors. That's the hardest part. It helps if you have a friend to put the nut on the top hat of the new coilover while you are pushing down on the coils. Everything else is just a direct swap and connect back/torque. Also make sure you torque your lower control arm bolts when the car is actually on the ground and not raised.

Follow the DIY guide in the DIY section for a coilover/spring install. It will help drastically if this is your first time, and give yourself a good amount of time to do this as well.

i had that one saved thanks

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by andrew20195

Might be possible with some very wide front fenders.

Think about a pushrod setup;

simply put the pushrods in the engine bay in front of the engine using like an internal bar structure around

(given a heat shield and what not for safety all those considerations)

use the fender well for the multi links to the wheels, allowing for a much tighter tolerance for fender to wheel clearance, you could even extend the fender wells for a much more aggressive stance and wider wheel base.

Alternatively the trunk doesn't really serve THAT much of a purpose (to store stuff, but that's what the passenger seat is for) so you can use the spare room to put the pushrods for the rear multi links in there

[wparsons]

I haven't taken measurements, but I think if you look at the amount of space between the engine and the knuckle (forgetting fender liner, etc) I doubt there's room for a good length UCA. Part of making a double wishbone suspension work is the right ratio between UCA and LCA length to get the desired camber curve with the suspension travel needed.

If you can make room for a good length UCA, then making a mount point for the upper shock mount should be pretty easy. Next up would be making a new LCA with a lower shock mounting point.

[cdrazic93]

Probably best to move the engine a little back at that point, I'm not sure how much extra you can move it back though...

[solidONE]

If you want to do all that just get a NA miata. There is a lot of room in the engine bay in that car. Not to mention you can get an entire car for the cost of a few FR-S/BRZ body panels...

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by solidONE

If you want to do all that just get a NA miata. There is a lot of room in the engine bay in that car. Not to mention you can get an entire car for the cost of a few FR-S/BRZ body panels...

It wouldnt look as good as the brz

[fatoni]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

It wouldnt look as good as the brz

i actually like my miatas looks more than my brz. its old and doesnt look dated. i dont know if i will be able to say the same for the twins. plus, you would have an infinitely faster car for tens of thousands of dollars less if that was your goal. i guess the point is that its more trouble than its worth.