Alignment FAQ Thread

[zAnSh1n]

hi, i am planning to run -1.5[f] and -2.5[r] camber and adjusting toe/caster accordingly after lowering the car to rid most of the fender gap...

i have been taking my car to west end since 2005 and i know that they do great work.

i know all cars are different, but are LCAs a must for what i am looking to do for the rear? or will the whiteline camber kit suffice?

i'm planning to just get the camber bolts for the front.

[Maverickgear]

Originally Posted by zAnSh1n

hi, i am planning to run -1.5[f] and -2.5[r] camber and adjusting toe/caster accordingly after lowering the car to rid most of the fender gap...

i have been taking my car to west end since 2005 and i know that they do great work.

i know all cars are different, but are LCAs a must for what i am looking to do for the rear? or will the whiteline camber kit suffice?

i'm planning to just get the camber bolts for the front.

Objectively speaking, if we are comparing a LCA to a camber kit. The only difference might just be the ease of installation. Do correct me if I'm wrong...

Our car's caster is adjustable? Do we need an additional caster arm of some sort?

[SuperDave]

Originally Posted by Maverickgear

Objectively speaking, if we are comparing a LCA to a camber kit. The only difference might just be the ease of installation. Do correct me if I'm wrong...

Our car's caster is adjustable? Do we need an additional caster arm of some sort?

you'll probably need a camber/caster plate for the front suspension. i believe their is a degree of variability but from my experience most techs will just say it's not adjustable.

[zAnSh1n]

if i pick up SPC's 67660, i will not be able to achieve -2.5 camber in the rear...

the ones for the wrx fits our cars, correct? and the range on those is up to +/- 3.0, so that may be a better option for me...

does anyone know SPC's part# for that? i cannot seem to find it.

the whiteline KCA416 front camber bolts should be fine though.

[Maverickgear]

Originally Posted by SuperDave

you'll probably need a camber/caster plate for the front suspension. i believe their is a degree of variability but from my experience most techs will just say it's not adjustable.

Yeah, spoke to my tech and he said it wasn't adjustable. I'm guessing it's possible but ain't as straightforward.

[Khyron686]

Got my alignment - thought I was maxed camber when I installed the springs - lol not even close. Turns felt a LOT better after it was done. If you change springs or any bolts, get the alignment.

I asked for -max front, -.10 degrees toe f/b - he was pretty close. Camber was dead on but it adjusted a touch when he fixed the toe.

Note -1.5 degrees front, and almost -2 degrees rear with just RCE Yellows and the 16mm whiteline front bolts (upper hole). Very pleased.

[zAnSh1n]

Originally Posted by Khyron686

Got my alignment - thought I was maxed camber when I installed the springs - lol not even close. Turns felt a LOT better after it was done. If you change springs or any bolts, get the alignment.

I asked for -max front, -.10 degrees toe f/b - he was pretty close. Camber was dead on but it adjusted a touch when he fixed the toe.

Note -1.5 degrees front, and almost -2 degrees rear with just RCE Yellows and the 16mm whiteline front bolts (upper hole). Very pleased.

are you running any rear LCAs ?

[Khyron686]

Originally Posted by zAnSh1n

are you running any rear LCAs ?

Nope - no bushings either - just stock. Shows you need to check a baseline before going crazy ordering parts.

[zAnSh1n]

hmmm... i thought stock rear camber is not adjustable.

[zAnSh1n]

im confused... op states that the stock camber is:

"Non-Adjustable on the FR-S and BRZ unless you install camber bolts, plates or adjustable bushings."

but right underneath that it specifies an adjustment range...

[Khyron686]

Originally Posted by zAnSh1n

im confused... op states that the stock camber is:

"Non-Adjustable on the FR-S and BRZ unless you install camber bolts, plates or adjustable bushings."

but right underneath that it specifies an adjustment range...

That's not a range you "can do" - it's the acceptable range to pass inspection. So if you slam your car, and try and sell it in another province, you would fail as the alignment would be out of spec. That's why it's red. It does change when you change toe, or lower it.

[zAnSh1n]

ah, that explains why your rear camber is barely different than pre-alignment; it only adjusted a tiny bit after adjusting the toe.

i know these things vary by each individual vehicle, so i have no idea what my initial measurements will be once i have the vehicle at my desired height.

i ordered the spc arms, so i will get those installed when i go in for my alignment since i will most likely require the ability to adjust the rear camber.

[Slick]

Originally Posted by Khyron686

If you change springs or any bolts, get the alignment.

Any time you adjust suspension and especially add springs, you need an alignment. You can ruin a set of tires pretty quickly with toe settings off.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by Khyron686

Got my alignment - thought I was maxed camber when I installed the springs - lol not even close. Turns felt a LOT better after it was done. If you change springs or any bolts, get the alignment.

I asked for -max front, -.10 degrees toe f/b - he was pretty close. Camber was dead on but it adjusted a touch when he fixed the toe.

Note -1.5 degrees front, and almost -2 degrees rear with just RCE Yellows and the 16mm whiteline front bolts (upper hole). Very pleased.

I have a few comments about the alignment and I am sure CSG can chime in as well.

1. You have .10 of TOE IN set on front, thats not going to help with steering feel. You want to zero it out or run slight toe out.

2. Front Camber looks good for a street car.

3. Rear camber is a bit much and you will start to wear the rear outter edge faster, you may notice more understeer as well.