Want to turbo my BRZ...Ideas?

[jasonojordan]

Originally Posted by nickdd6237

I'm not sure but I just assumed that they were a reputable company and its made for the brz that it should fit without any modifications. What makes people have to cut the crash beam out?

To save money and choose my own parts.

Sure they are made by reputable companies but each company also has their own full setup. Each company positions things a bit differently then the next. Mixing and matching parts and kits is just asking for headaches. Many people have raised red flags with your approach to this yet you continue to ignore them.

So I guess we will just wait for the inevitable my ebay this doesn't work or my kit from company x does not line up with my kit from company z what do I do now.

[Amputechture]

Originally Posted by nickdd6237

I'm not sure but I just assumed that they were a reputable company and its made for the brz that it should fit without any modifications. What makes people have to cut the crash beam out?

To save money and choose my own parts.

What I mean by that, is that MAP manifold may have the compressor outlet sitting X amount of distance closer or further away from where the FBM manifold would have it positioned. Or maybe the merge collector portion of the MAP manifold is shorter/taller than FBM's is, you never know. The FBM intercooler and charge piping was designed to fit the FBM manifold...that's not to say that the MAP manifold won't work but just because the components were made to be BRZ/FRS specific does not mean that different individual components are universally interchangeable.


Folk cut the crash beam, or replace it because a large portion of the beam's real estate is in the way of the piping that goes to the inlet/outlet of the IC end tanks. FBM's kit does not require crash beam modification as the IC piping is located on the side of the IC, not a top fed type of deal like JDL/SBD/Greddy/Full-Race/MAP. Usually the shorter the IC piping is, the better the transient response will be....however I've heard from several with experience that the difference is negligible at most. I cut my beam, if I could go back in time I would have went for a longer/no-cut/through the headlight hole route.

[mjanmohammad]

Originally Posted by nickdd6237

I'm not sure but I just assumed that they were a reputable company and its made for the brz that it should fit without any modifications. What makes people have to cut the crash beam out?

To save money and choose my own parts.

Piecing together a mismatched kit probably costs more than buying one thats already made.

[FRS Justin]

Originally Posted by nickdd6237

Thanks. Im going to go witb the Maps manifold kit and the Full Blown stg1 intecooler kit. Still might stick to this turbo as ive read others having positive results woth them. The company also sells Borg Warner turbos.

Also i will be buying a pre tapped oil pan.

Ya that's not going to work without some fab work the turbo locations are different.

[Amputechture]

If you ever in your life should listen to a random group of guys on the internet, let this be the time. Whatever amount of money you believe yourself to be saving will be completely negated once you mock up the piping and see that you are going to have big gaps.

Just because there are few hundred dollars less in your cart at checkout does not mean you are doing your budget a favor.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Amputechture

If you ever in your life should listen to a random group of guys on the internet, let this be the time. Whatever amount of money you believe yourself to be saving will be completely negated once you mock up the piping and see that you are going to have big gaps.

Just because there are few hundred dollars less in your cart at checkout does not mean you are doing your budget a favor.

THIS ^
LISTEN TO IT


The people that KNOW what they are talking about are advising against it.
The ones that don't have a clue are saying go for it.
There are reasons why particular parts are used in kits.

[dattran86]

If I actually want to drive my car as soon as the turbo kit goes on and tuned. I would just buy a kit from a reputable brand, along with a good forum/online support. and save money, time and headache in the long.

those company did the research and development. the older you get the more you realized you always get what you pay for.

piecing together a turbo kit with mismatch parts from different company, you'd probably have to cut/weld/modifying shit to make stuff fit, and that comes with a headache and your car probably be on jack stand for a while before you actually driving it. and that considered you know welding and fabrication, if not then you'd have to pay for shop time/labour.

I'm not talking down on your decision, its your car. but you did ask for ideas and being realistic with money and time. its a no brainer to go with a kit like many other recommendation.

[FRS Justin]

Best help I can give you is, as I mentioned before I will sell you a complete JDL turbo kit with upgraded GTX3076gen2 and intercooler, that's ceramic coated for 5k only had 1200 miles on it

[TachyonBomb]

Turbo Kit and Turbo buying spark notes:

- Make sure the turbos rotating assembly (everything that spins from wheel to wheel) is made from Garrett or Mistubishi components. As a newbie you should only concern yourself with turbos make with these parts only. Asking why to the wrong person will only lead a series of annoying and irrelevant side tangents.

- Compressor housings don't matter as much and will most likely be an original, copied, modified or modified copy of a Garrett or Mitsubishi housing.

- Exhaust wheel housing doesn't matter as much and will most likely be an original, copied, modified or modified copy of a Garrett or Mitsubishi housing.

- Intake/Intercooler/Intercooler piping doesn't need to be worried about for a newb

- Exhaust piping at its most basic level should be judged on the materials used for the piping and the quality of the welding done to mate those materials together.

- Know what pressure the wastegate spring is set to open.

- Learn how to read/translate whee sizes. What are the size differences (in millimeters)
between a GTX2871, GTX2971 and a GTX3071? What are the sizes and size differences from a TD06SL2-18G and a TD06SL2-20G? What about from a TD06SL2-20G and a TD06HR-16G to a TD06SH-25G? This will give you a feel determining a turbos basic performance profile based on the intake and exhaust wheel dimensions.

Knowing the above about a turbo or turbo kit will make you a better entry level turbo purchaser. Knowing the above would have also saved 5 pages of this dumb thread from being created.

[Xxyion]

I think the OP forgot the most important thing that was said on the first page by CSG Mike. Take everything you know about turbo civics and throw it out the window. Peicing together a turbo kit in the 90's was how you did it. I had a custom turbo setup in my 95 GST. A lot of the parts were purchased separately and then pieced together.

That doesnt work on this platform. There is less space in our engine bays and so where you mount the turbo is key. How you route your piping, where you want to avoid heat soaks and so on. Every company does things differently and decides to sacrifice in places others may not choose to based on cost.

Again, take everything you knew and throw it out the window. You are in different territory here. When reliable mechanics themselves are using turbo kits, there is a reason for that. I can guarantee that CSGMike or many of the other mechanics on here know how to fab a turbo kit together for themselves, theres a reason they chose not to do that. Listen to them.

[nickdd6237]

Ok so .57 or .72 a/r on a gtx2860?

[Cole]

I don't think you're ready for a turbo.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by nickdd6237

Ok so .57 or .72 a/r on a gtx2860?

Do you actually know what you want?

[nickdd6237]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Do you actually know what you want?

Yes the gtx2860r but they have two different size A/R for it. Im not sure which would be better for my goals.