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| Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires. |
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#71 |
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Wes
Join Date: Feb 2017
Drives: Artisan Spirits '17 86
Location: Toronto
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#72 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Drives: 84 CJ7, 08 Duramax, 2014 FRS
Location: Oregon
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I have run the 225 models and they were divine when compared to the Prius screamers. God I had a tire that screams that much when it breaks loose, pitiful. The Pilots are simply awesome in comparison. The 225 adds about 3/4" to the collective width. About 3/8" wider each.
Mine lasted me about 1 year and I drive hard. No track time here, just a 21 mile commute through the country 4 days a week with some decent corners. And of course lots of twisties. Costco had the best prices, bar none. As for reading deeper in this thread, awful snow tires. They work, but shopping cart wheels is spot on for characterizing them in snow. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to jeepmor For This Useful Post: | dinfern22 (08-07-2017) |
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#73 | |
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So. Many. High-heels.
Join Date: May 2016
Drives: 2016 Halo FR-S
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#74 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Drives: 2015 Scion frz
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Not to thread jack....
But has anyone tried 205/45/17 on stock wheels? I'm assuming turn in would be better with a sticky 200TW tire. |
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#75 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Drives: 2016 Scion FR-S(Halo)
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#76 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Drives: 2016 Scion FR-S(Halo)
Location: Maryland
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So I ended up cancelling my order of PSS in 225's and went with the 215/45R17.
Do you guys recommend I get an alignment done after the tire installation on my OEM wheels? Since owning my car I have never done one. My car has 15k miles on it. If I do, i'm guessing they would have the cars specific factory specs on a computer, or do I have to give them specific numbers? |
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#77 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Drives: 2014 GT86
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dinfern22: No need to change alignment on wheel or tire swap. With different wheels/tires alignment/geometry stays same.
(with exception when for some different alignment is needed to enhance wheel clearance due too wide wheels fitted for them to not rub). You need one, when: 1) advised after initial car purchase, as stock can be rather not precise/out of whack, while still within ranges of 'passing', 2) if you install suspension parts of different properties then stock ones or installing which involves unbolting/retorqueing suspension, changing alignment in process (coilovers/springs/bushings/camberplates/control arms/etc), 3) if you had big hits to suspension and feel that handling started to acting up after that, 4) if you want different alignment then before (eg. more camber for more even tire wear at track, or different camber front-rear settings, to dial out understeer vs stock, or more stability under throttle with toe-in, or sharper turn-in with front toe-out, and so on ..) Don't mistake though -car-alignment- with -tire-balancing-. Later should be done on any proper tire remount on wheel. Of course not when swapping to different wheels with premounted tires (balanced before), unless that balancing been long ago and something makes you think that they may benefit from that (eg. due uneven wear or bend somewhere you feel excessive vibration when driving with those wheels/tires). |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to churchx For This Useful Post: | dinfern22 (08-07-2017) |
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