Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[Njjawn]

So.... I'm not sure if this has been asked before or if it's just an all around stupid question but...

Can race fuel be used beneficially with this kit on a stock fuel system? While I do not have e85 readily available near me, I do have race furl extremely available. By pure chance, I accidentally noticed the shop 300ft from my office stocks VP race fuels, I don't know why, but they had pallets of it stored in an adjacent warehouse.

Of course I'll talk with mike from moto east about this before I bring my car into him for revisions, but before I sound stupid to him, I'll just throw myself out to sound stupid to you guys.

[Kodename47]

If by race fuel you mean high octane petrol, then yes it will work. However if you're car is tuned on 91/93 you'll see no benefit unless you're on track where the heat might make the car more knock prone.

[Njjawn]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

If by race fuel you mean high octane petrol, then yes it will work. However if you're car is tuned on 91/93 you'll see no benefit unless you're on track where the heat might make the car more knock prone.

I'm talking about having it tuned with race fuel/high octane.
https://vpracingfuels.com/master-fuel-table/

Those are all the fuels available to me... If theres something similar to e85 (I believe c85 info here is) I might entertain the idea of tuning for that. The car is rarely driven, so I'm not overly concerned with having to deal with the hassle of buying fuel from these guys.

[-Willis-86touge]

Originally Posted by Njjawn

I'm talking about having it tuned with race fuel/high octane.
https://vpracingfuels.com/master-fuel-table/

Those are all the fuels available to me... If theres something similar to e85 (I believe c85 info here is) I might entertain the idea of tuning for that. The car is rarely driven, so I'm not overly concerned with having to deal with the hassle of buying fuel from these guys.

Couldn't you use a e85 base tune for racing fuel. If the racing fuel was close to the same octane as e85?? The reason cause oft has the tune and the the computer compensates for variances! I mean octane is octane right!

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by -Willis-86touge

Couldn't you use a e85 base tune for racing fuel. If the racing fuel was close to the same octane as e85?? The reason cause oft has the tune and the the computer compensates for variances! I mean octane is octane right!

Octane is octane but E85 requires more fuel injected (around 30%) than petrol. You'd run really rich.

[-Willis-86touge]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

Octane is octane but E85 requires more fuel injected (around 30%) than petrol. You'd run really rich.

Yea but what about race gas what's the rate it's injected? I mean if it has a higher octane it should act similar to e85. This just means it burns slower, right so wouldn't it also need more fuel to be injected too. Please for give me! I know jack shit about different types of race gas.

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by -Willis-86touge

Yea but what about race gas what's the rate it's injected? I mean if it has a higher octane it should act similar to e85. This just means it burns slower, right so wouldn't it also need more fuel to be injected too. Please for give me! I know jack shit about different types of race gas.

Ethanol has a lower energy content than petrol so requires a much larger volume to generate the same power. If you run E85 tune on petrol race fuel, it'll run ridiculously rich and make no power and run really poorly. In fact I doubt it would actually start.

There is no problem running a normal 91/93 tune on petrol race fuel, you just don't reap the benefits of it.

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by riboyster

You could superglue it closed I suppose. But I'm willing to bet money that you'd cook your SC and sprintex would definitely not cover that in warranty.

Also it already does hit full boost at any rpm. Your throttle just needs to be completely open.

You wouldn't need to superglue it, you could just remove the vacuum bypass actuator arm from the bypass valve, and then lock the valve closed.



In the picture above you can see how the actuator/arm/valve setup works.

That being said, I agree with you. He should definitely leave it connected. It's there for a reason.

[riboyster]

Originally Posted by -Willis-86touge

Yea but what about race gas what's the rate it's injected? I mean if it has a higher octane it should act similar to e85. This just means it burns slower, right so wouldn't it also need more fuel to be injected too. Please for give me! I know jack shit about different types of race gas.

As kodename was saying, it's more about fuel density than octane. Octane only raises the extreme at which the fuel autoignites.

The fact that you're using something that burns with an entirely different energy output means that you'll be injecting an entirely different volume of it.
If you're going to use race gas, you might as well go to your tuner with a full tank of it and get the most out of your ignition timing that you can. Just remember that your car is going to pull as much timing as needed out of your tune when you go back to pump gas on the same tune, and you're going to notice it.

[PitViper]

Originally Posted by riboyster

I am. Keep in mind that I'm only using it to cool the unit when I feel like it's probably heat soaked, or on hot days when I want to do a pull or two. If I lived in an alpine region where the summer average was under 75 degrees, I'd probably have no use for it. I'd like to consider my WMI setup conservative, but I'd definitely recommend talking to @PitViper for more info. He knows his way around tuning it into your system and aggressive WMI applications.

Sorry, I've been away from the forums for a bit and didn't even see this.
Feel free to hit me up if anyone has any questions when it comes to WMI applications. I'd be glad to help!

[Njjawn]

Having a few interesting problems....

1. Car starts, runs, drives great. I can get a pull or two out of it, and it pulls hard and doesn't seem to have any issues.
Then, after a few minutes, ABS and the Traction control lights go on and stay on. The cars power drops off a bit. It will not return to normal until after the car is turned off/back on.
This happens regardless of whether I'm driving hard, or I'm going easy on it.

2. I have a Jon Bond catch can mod on my supercharger (installed by JB). After a hard 2-4th gear pull, it seems to shoot a bit of oil out. Is this the catch can? maybe the nipples arent sealed correctly?

Notes: I'm throwing a CEL for a Bank 1 O2 sensor. I checked it, its definitely plugged in. Code is P0031.

[riboyster]

Originally Posted by Njjawn

Having a few interesting problems....

1. Car starts, runs, drives great. I can get a pull or two out of it, and it pulls hard and doesn't seem to have any issues.
Then, after a few minutes, ABS and the Traction control lights go on and stay on. The cars power drops off a bit. It will not return to normal until after the car is turned off/back on.
This happens regardless of whether I'm driving hard, or I'm going easy on it.

2. I have a Jon Bond catch can mod on my supercharger (installed by JB). After a hard 2-4th gear pull, it seems to shoot a bit of oil out. Is this the catch can? maybe the nipples arent sealed correctly?

Notes: I'm throwing a CEL for a Bank 1 O2 sensor. I checked it, its definitely plugged in. Code is P0031.

Maybe an exhaust leak pre O2 sensor? Check your header connection. I've had my bolts come loose and thrown a code.

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by Njjawn

I'm throwing a CEL for a Bank 1 O2 sensor. I checked it, its definitely plugged in. Code is P0031.

P0031 - Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

That's probably going to be a wiring issue or a new sensor needed.

Do you have an EcuTek cable? You can log all the primary O2 sensor info if needed to check and test.

[Njjawn]

^i don't think it would be a leak because it's not throwing a values code, it's basically saying the sensor is bad... I think

Originally Posted by Kodename47

P0031 - Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

That's probably going to be a wiring issue or a new sensor needed.

Do you have an EcuTek cable? You can log all the primary O2 sensor info if needed to check and test.

I checked the wiring/plug already and all seemed fine. I ordered a new air fuel sensor hopefully that does the trick. Could that be throwing the car into this "limp" mode?