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Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires.

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Old 12-06-2013, 10:37 AM   #57
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What cars are you comparing it to and what tyres are you running? I haven't had any other RWD cars *edit: except my miata!* so my experience is very limited with them, but my brz is certainly not undriveable and not much different to what I was expecting on ice and snow.
Drive on ice laid down on a bridge deck when temperatures fall from minus 10C to minus 24C and humidity climbs well above the dew point.

Then let me know how your BRZ handles this.

The handling problems of this car in low friction situations are very well documented. The car oversteers too easily and too abruptly when grip goes down. This would also happen in the warm and dry if the car had enough power.
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Old 12-06-2013, 11:37 AM   #58
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From all I've read from you, your 'experience' counts for nil. Go ahead, blame the tool, I'll laugh. I repeat, it's the grip. What were you thinking, going with performance winters in Alberta is beyond me.
I'm in total agreement although I might have said it a little more tactfully,

I'm in Minnesota, and was on Blizzak LM's last winter. They didn't cut it. I'm on Blizzak WS's this year and they are working great.
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:38 PM   #59
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Drive on ice laid down on a bridge deck when temperatures fall from minus 10C to minus 24C and humidity climbs well above the dew point.
Just FIY, the colder it gets, the grippier the ice. Slickest ice is wet ice just a hair below freezing.

This car is somewhat nose heavy and one SHOULD expect it to become harder to drive with less grip. Nothing wrong with rear axle. I've driven Miatas with Torsen all winter long, on I&S tires. This car didn't feel any different last winter. Torsen needs grip to work well, so give it grip. That is - get maximum grip in the worst possible situation==get I&S tires with good ice grip and/or put weight in the trunk. Blaming a decent car because you did a mistake of buying tires that aren't good on ice, and trying to defend your purchase by blaming the car is silly.

Get the right tool for the job, then you get a right to complain.
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:47 PM   #60
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The handling problems of this car in low friction situations are very well documented. The car oversteers too easily and too abruptly when grip goes down. This would also happen in the warm and dry if the car had enough power.
No it doesn't. Any loss of control is directly related to your steering, braking, and throttle inputs. Tires will make it more/less predictable depending on compound.
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:58 PM   #61
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No it doesn't. Any loss of control is directly related to your steering, braking, and throttle inputs.
And the history of those. Meaning speed
Slow the heck down (before hand) when going over an icy hump-shaped bridge.
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Old 12-06-2013, 07:34 PM   #62
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No it doesn't. Any loss of control is directly related to your steering, braking, and throttle inputs. Tires will make it more/less predictable depending on compound.
Who said anything about loss of control?
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Old 12-06-2013, 07:37 PM   #63
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And the history of those. Meaning speed
Slow the heck down (before hand) when going over an icy hump-shaped bridge.
Exactly, I have to drive this car slowly. My other cars beat the pants off it on the exact same tires.

Tires should not affect chassis balance as you change grip at both ends simultaneously in the same way.

You guys believe whatever you want. I know what I'm talking about. You might benefit from reading what Evo magazine found tracking their Euro spec gt86 in the wet. They found exactly the same problem and one editor declared the car undrivable. He was correct.
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Old 12-06-2013, 07:38 PM   #64
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Who said anything about loss of control?
You sir, are a Grade A troll, but let me attempt to educate a slight bit regardless.

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The car oversteers too easily and too abruptly when grip goes down.
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Originally Posted by That Pedia place
Simply put, oversteer is what occurs when a car turns (steers) by more than (over) the amount commanded by the driver.
If you think abrupt or sudden oversteer is a problem in a front-engine, rear-wheel driven vehicle, then you surely making mistakes that would get you killed a mid-engine, rear-wheel driven vehicle.
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:21 AM   #65
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Perfect description. I'm pretty excited to get some new wheels this spring with something stickier and wider than stock. The transition should feel awesome.
Going from snows to better summers is awesome, going back to snows... not so much

I don't find my snows *that* bad in the dry/wet, but they're definitely nothing even remotely close to my summers (dunlop ZII's).
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Old 12-07-2013, 10:26 AM   #66
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So, finally got a chance to test the i*Pikes last night with some pretty nasty weather conditions. I couldn't see the road the whole way home from work, whether it was a main road, interstate, or side road. She made it like a champ. There were some slippery moments, but I never lost complete control of the car or went off the road. I even managed to get into my snow covered, slanted driveway, plowing part of it with the nose of my car.
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Old 12-07-2013, 10:45 AM   #67
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So, finally got a chance to test the i*Pikes last night with some pretty nasty weather conditions. I couldn't see the road the whole way home from work, whether it was a main road, interstate, or side road. She made it like a champ. There were some slippery moments, but I never lost complete control of the car or went off the road. I even managed to get into my snow covered, slanted driveway, plowing part of it with the nose of my car.
Hankook makes good winter tires according to most Canadian drivers who try them. Very good value in a snow tire that actually performs as well as some more expensive snow tires. You see them a lot up here.
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Old 12-07-2013, 10:48 AM   #68
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You sir, are a Grade A troll, but let me attempt to educate a slight bit regardless.





If you think abrupt or sudden oversteer is a problem in a front-engine, rear-wheel driven vehicle, then you surely making mistakes that would get you killed a mid-engine, rear-wheel driven vehicle.
Not so. I've driven the Porsches without any sign of this issue.

You just fail to understand what I'm talking about.

The BRZ suffers from severe and abrupt oversteer in conditions where it should not do so. You need to know this if you intend to drive this car at high speeds on very wet roads, snow or ice.

That failure may kill you someday.
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Old 12-07-2013, 03:12 PM   #69
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Not so. I've driven the Porsches without any sign of this issue.

You just fail to understand what I'm talking about.

The BRZ suffers from severe and abrupt oversteer in conditions where it should not do so. You need to know this if you intend to drive this car at high speeds on very wet roads, snow or ice.

That failure may kill you someday.
Still trolling. "Let me talk about cars that have more weight over the real axle and thus have no traction issues." Dude. Seriously? Perhaps your problem is that you don't know what the dynamics of FMR layout vehicles are like and you abuse inputs in inclement weather with tires never meant for "DAT GRIP YO."

Before you respond that you know FMR dynamics, you brought up the rear weight biased Porsches (without specifying any front-engine model codes), so don't even...
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Old 12-07-2013, 04:27 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
Still trolling. "Let me talk about cars that have more weight over the real axle and thus have no traction issues." Dude. Seriously? Perhaps your problem is that you don't know what the dynamics of FMR layout vehicles are like and you abuse inputs in inclement weather with tires never meant for "DAT GRIP YO."

Before you respond that you know FMR dynamics, you brought up the rear weight biased Porsches (without specifying any front-engine model codes), so don't even...
Why are you guys still arguing in a second thread over the same thing with a guy that advocates mounting tires two extra times a year as a way to save money.

Clearly he operates on a level far different than everyone else.


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and for economy you can just get the tire shop to swap tires twice per year onto the factory rims. It takes about 8 years before separate rims pay off, actually.
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