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#57 |
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Senior Member
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now imagine being able to attach a small grill to this set-up...
BBQ at every car meet? |
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#58 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
I could use 2 of those mounting bolts, I have a idea on how I wanna build off it, I don't have the machines to fab that bolt/bracket tho. |
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#59 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Drives: 2013 DZE/01 (sold for MX5 ND1)
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Quote:
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#60 |
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Member
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Drives: 2015 BRZ Limited, Dark Gray
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Thank you, Ozzman, for those dimensions. They help a lot. That'll give me enough to get started, but I could still use a photo of the tow hook hole area with nothing threaded into it. Does anybody have a photo like that?
Thanks, Jason |
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#61 |
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I've done some quick drawings based on Ozzman's dimensions. This rack is designed to be attached semi-permanently. Rather than prying the tow hook covers off your bumper each time you wanted to mount your rack, you would install a short adapter that, when threaded in, would be flush with the bumper cover. Here's an exploded view of the two parts for each side:
Having threaded in the adaptor (top), you would then apply a 1-1/8" hole saw to the tow hook cover, making a hole for the flush-fitting adaptor. Then you'd install the drilled tow hook cover over the adaptor, resulting in a clean finish (or a sano, if you're a hot rod guy). The idea is that you could leave your car set up like this (with the flush adaptors in place) all the time. Weak Loktite would secure the adaptor without preventing its removal in the future. When it comes time to put a bike on the back of your car, you just get the adaptor extensions (bottom) out of your trunk and thread them into the flush adaptor threads. Here's an image of the adaptor and extension threaded together: The female thread on the adaptor is the same 16x1.5mm thread on the tow hook...if you needed to use your tow hook, you could just thread it directly into the adaptor. The way I spec'd it out, all parts are made of 304 stainless, so they could easily handle the load from the tow hook. (To do this right, I'd need to add a female chamfer to the adaptor and a male chamfer to the extension so that the tow hook chamfer has something to engage. I haven't taken the time to do this yet). With the adaptor made from stainless rod and the extension made primarily from stainless 1-1/8" tubing, the entire assembly weighs 950 grams per side (almost exactly two pounds). That means your whole rack weighs four pounds, which is pretty good (IMHO). There are still some issues with this design, but I'm reasonably happy with it as a first draft. If there's enough interest, I can create some formal mechanical drawings of the final design and make them available to list members. Cheers, Jason |
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#62 |
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Your adaptor needs to be less than 1" in diameter to pass through the bumper beam.
Basically you have the bumper cover, then under that, a hole in the bumper beam. Down in the bowels of the bumper beam is where the threaded insert/towhook support lies. |
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#63 |
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Yeah...that's why I was hoping to get a photo of the tow hook hole with nothing in it. It's trivial to pare it down to the right diameter; I'll do that at some point, but not tonight.
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#64 |
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I guess I changed my mind...I did fix the adaptor tonight. Here's an image:
The section between the two chamfers is 7/8" (22.2 mm). Cheers, Jason |
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#65 |
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Now you're cookin with gas.
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#66 |
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Senior Member
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Interested in the first set!
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Bilstein Damptronic Prototypes | Other silly bits
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#67 |
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Been running this exact same concept since back in January. I have had no issues at all. Super easy to build. Any machine shop can do the work. Used onlinemetals.com for rod. Great selection of product and they will cut to length for you. You can use any Yakima rack system that uses 1 1/8" round bars. With labor you can do it yourself for less than $300. OP--Did you drill out the holes to lighten rods? Looks cool. I'm looking at redoing it in I believe it's 5777 cold hardened stainless. Light yet more durable from what I have read vs AL. I will definitely shorten the rods if I redo it. Have you tried mounting two bikes yet? I'm a little conceded with bending due to lever action. Any thoughts?
Last edited by Jymrv; 09-15-2013 at 12:19 PM. |
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#68 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
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Hi everyone,
Well have been trying to work with some local machine shops for the Stainless Steel Rods. Now I have to figure out on how offer it without breaking any rules. Still working on pricing. It has a lot to do with the quantity that I order. I guess I will need to take a head count. I have been running my rack for some time now and happy to report that there are no issues. I do get a lot of compliments on the design and ingenuity. OK I'll stop now. ![]() I do not think that this design will lend itself for a two bike rack application. For this I would look into the rear tow hitch that someone on this forum is offering. then just get a standard trailer hitch rack for two bikes. Hope that this helps and will figure this out very shortly. Going to contact the MODS for rules and regulations. Wish me luck.
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Salmon, the other Pink Meat!
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#69 |
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Junior Member
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Just wondering what the status was regarding the rods for the bike racks.
Thanks! |
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#70 |
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Senior Member
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This is a nice concept. Been a cyclist myself for a long time (Mtn 26yr, Road 21yr). Luckily I still have my Xterra to haul bikes and gear around.
But, the discussion and comments reminds me of what I did with my old truck and with the Xterra - make customized racks because what was available from the factory or the rack companies wasn't quite right. I've always wanted fork mount racks as the upright versions are just too wiggly. I really like the tow hook mount location you guys have come up with. I'm really just commenting to say that and also if you find the need for more stiffness/stability, I have found that the full-length fork mount trays work really well. I have Yakima Steelheads on the Xterra, but I'm not sure they still make them. The full length adds stiffness to the whole thing. |
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| the red devil |
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