Official OpenFlash Tablet FA20 Tuning Tech Discussion Thread

[Rombinhood@OpenFlash]

Originally Posted by ReThink

Ok the pen worked. May I suggest a "calibration failed" dialog. Thanks for the help Rombinhood. Now to see if I can download/upload/write the 1.34

Done. With the next firmware update, there will be a dialogue box confirming successful for unsuccessful screen calibration. Thank you for your suggestion!

[Kodename47]

@autobrz, the car naturally pulls timing at high temps anyway so I'm not sure dropping the advance is necessary. Maybe drop the ign advance table if you still feel the need. I haven't seen the base and advance tables to know what they are. Also, depending on how much its changed, you may find the AFR changes slightly so log and adjust fueling if required.

Looks like you need to change xdf files too

[jamesm]

Originally Posted by autobrz

Noob question, I compared stg 1 v1.34 to stock rom. I saw there was quite a bit of timing advance put into the base timing in the upper rpms (about the same amount when comparing stg1 to stg2) I'm trying to go for a super conservative tune to completely eliminate any knock even under the most stressful conditions (track in 110 deg weather).
So what I did was removed any added timing (go back to stock) from 3600-7400 rpms in the base timing and ign timing adv tables but kept all the values 3200 rpms and below in the base timing (because those won't see track conditions) and kept all the timing retard (compared to stock) in the ign timing adv table. Does that sound like something reasonable to do?

Also when I looked at the VVT tables, I'm not seeing values in the x and y axis that make sense. I'm looking at the ZA1J900D roms. Are they supposed to be rpms for y axis and load for x axis?

i'd log it and see if the change was necessary. you don't want to just go pulling timing for the hell of it, as that can cause high egts (though probably not in your case). in any case, it's easy enough to find out if it's necessary that there is really no reason to do it blind.

if your goal is to protect against knock from high intake temperatures, look into the temperature-based timing compensations. that way at least the timing isn't being pulled straight out of the base all the time unnecessarily.

[GeeTee86]

Noob Q. Most of this flies over my head a bit
I have borla uel, fully decat after market exhaust, takeda intake. 2 probs, altitude of 1400m and really sucky fuel quality.
Would this work for me? (86)

ps: Summer temps of 35 Celsius and winter about 5.

[Tromatic]

If I can do it, anyone can! Connected device to PC, updated, done! Connected to car today, done! Now to send the tunes to the box and then flash the car.

Using a soft guitar pick worked perfectly for the first run calibration.

Does the box have a battery, or is it powered by the car/PC?

[cnk]

Originally Posted by Tromatic

Does the box have a battery, or is it powered by the car/PC?

Power via the OBDII port.

[autobrz]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

Looks like you need to change xdf files too

I used the xdf specified for the rom I was opening. Hope the guys at Vishnu will figure it out.

[R2]

I have noticed that the IAT ignition compensation table does not add any timing at low temperatures, only removes timing at high temperatures. With very low temperatures, say 0C, -10C, -20C, -30C and -40C would it be ok to add some timing in by using this table?

[Rombinhood@OpenFlash]

Originally Posted by autobrz

Noob question, I compared stg 1 v1.34 to stock rom. I saw there was quite a bit of timing advance put into the base timing in the upper rpms (about the same amount when comparing stg1 to stg2) I'm trying to go for a super conservative tune to completely eliminate any knock even under the most stressful conditions (track in 110 deg weather).
So what I did was removed any added timing (go back to stock) from 3600-7400 rpms in the base timing and ign timing adv tables but kept all the values 3200 rpms and below in the base timing (because those won't see track conditions) and kept all the timing retard (compared to stock) in the ign timing adv table. Does that sound like something reasonable to do?

Also when I looked at the VVT tables, I'm not seeing values in the x and y axis that make sense. I'm looking at the ZA1J900D roms. Are they supposed to be rpms for y axis and load for x axis?

As per the Read Me file, some of the XDF files don't have all the axis values defined. But they use the same axis values as the XDFs that do (ie, ZA1J___C) so you can use them as reference. However, I believe the folks at Vishnu are in the process of making the move over to RomRaider which does have everything defined. They are currently making a video tutorial on this so expect to see that by the end of the week. Along with another video tutorial on how to conduct datalogs and more videos on the OFT (this time with a naked mount on their GoPro camera so sound is muffled). If the videos are ready before they come back to the forum on Sunday I'll post them up myself.

Also we have some nice software updates that we are working on now so expect to see something new by the end of the month

[autobrz]

thanks for all the hard work they're doing at vishnu

[Tromatic]

Well, that was stressfull!

TL;DR: Desktop PC did not play nicely with the tablet.

Spent a week or so reading and watching the vids. Knew to bring a guitar pick to do the calibration. Installed all the software without errors. Got the tablet, connected to PC, recognized and updated. First connection to the car went as advertised as well.

Back to the PC to upload the tunes, all was well. Got the checksum messages. Back to the car, woohoo! All was well till the very end when I got a communication error. No worries, I have the inate ability to break anything. Tried again. Failed again. Was told to erase tune file, verify correct tune file, flash to tablet and try again.

BEWARE: Save a copy of your stock ROM before you do anything. My tablet was totally erased. My ROM was gone as well, and the tablet was reset to an unused condition. Bear in mind all I did was select the "X" to delete the tune file. I had to return to the car, copy the now-borked ROM to the tablet, load my ROM to number two slot and restore. That worked fine, so I tried the Stage One tune again. Fail! Reflashed stock ROM, success.

Started wondering if I had a bad tablet, but I decided to try using the laptop. Same OS as the desktop, same version, same damn install disk, but the laptop does nothing but play music. In fact, the laptop is a very customized version of Win 7. Installed the software, downloaded the tunes. Made sure to use a USB two port as well, same as the desktop. Anyway, deleted the Stage One tune installed by the desktop PC and flashed. Checksum message as described. Back to the car, fingers crossed.

Success!

No clue. The errors I was having were unheard of by Vishnu.

Save a copy of your stock ROM at the first opportunity. If you have any issues, consider the PC you set the tablet up with suspect as well. Did I mention save your stock ROM.

My apologies to Vishnu for ruining their day.

More later on how the car feels. Totally surprised by the different sound at about four k.

[WRB5titch]

Glad you got it all worked out!

Shiv mentioned that the sound at 4k is VVT kicking in harder than before. Personally, I love it.

It's nice and mean, gives the car more character

[Tromatic]

Originally Posted by WRB5titch

Glad you got it all worked out!

Shiv mentioned that the sound at 4k is VVT kicking in harder than before. Personally, I love it.

It's nice and mean, gives the car more character

I had read about it, but was caught off guard anyway. Sounds a little dangerous.

[Rombinhood@OpenFlash]

Originally Posted by Tromatic

I had read about it, but was caught off guard anyway. Sounds a little dangerous.

So does the idea of an internal combustion engine but they seems to work