Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by gtfapollo

What? Is this a real thing? I'm going to the Googles to make sure. I don't know what to make of this...

Check out xim4.com. I've used their older products. Fantastic product and company.

[s2d4]

Originally Posted by KAOS

Perhaps my idea was a bit too simple. The 1-10v controller would have a mechanical means of interpreting what the petal position is. Based on this position the same apparatus would send a 1-10v signal to the controller that would basicly act as an interrupt between the phantom power supply and the dc motor. It would allow whatever the neccessary voltage to charge the motor. But, the phantom has its on controls that would conflict. If I remember correctly, it activates 100% at 70% throttle and recharges when not in use. Doesn't seem like a terribly complicated work around but, without having one right in front of me I'm most likely just talking out my Ass. Good luck to you guys though. Also, I'll be doing something like the phantom only nothing like the phantom (no electric motor). I hope to start fabrication in the next month or so. My end goal is to have a reliable means of boost capable of directly competing with tradition superchargers and turbos for around the same price as the phantom. It would be similar to the phantom in that is going to be a zero lag system but that's about it. Again, not building an electric supercharger or stealing anyone's idea. I believe mine is going to be the first of its kind. So if that sounds interesting, keep your eyes peeled.

So you meant pedal in the last post, yeah won't work very well, already explained it to you. The interrupt idea wont work either with your proposed implementation. Good to see you picked up on the conflict, although still not realising it would be more so of DR than activation. The more I look at it, the more I realise why rob did it this way for the price point.

Other than that, something that is zero lag, no exhaust gases, no pulley+belt and no electricity, where are you going to get the energy source from? And how are you going to convert it into air pressure? then combustion?
Do tell, at least in concept as I hope it would be more feasibly interesting than your previous suggestions.

[reignerabellera]

how i wish rob will go international or sell this amazing upgrade overseas, im so obsessed with this upgrade because of your feedbacks. how i envy you guys

[PantsDants]

Can it be new batch time now?

[Target70]

Originally Posted by s2d4

So you meant pedal in the last post, yeah won't work very well, already explained it to you. The interrupt idea wont work either with your proposed implementation. Good to see you picked up on the conflict, although still not realising it would be more so of DR than activation. The more I look at it, the more I realise why rob did it this way for the price point.

Other than that, something that is zero lag, no exhaust gases, no pulley+belt and no electricity, where are you going to get the energy source from? And how are you going to convert it into air pressure? then combustion?
Do tell, at least in concept as I hope it would be more feasibly interesting than your previous suggestions.

since he didn't say in the previous post, I presume he does not want to reveal his idea till he has something to show.
Still a scuba tank with a high pressure air pump would be a similar concept to the ESC. Might take a special exhaust housing and wheel, but no extra heat under hood, no oil or turbo exhaust manifold needed. The pump shuts itself off at desired pressure. A simple pressure regulator between the the tank and the turbo "exhaust" wheel would maintain a constant pressure thus a constant boost no matter how much air the engine needed, so constant boost through the the whole rpm range. With an electric air valve, you could hook it up with a full throttle switch. Based on the speed of the valve you might not need a wastegate. BOV would still probably be necessary. All this is theoretical though as I don't know how big, heavy, power hungry a high pressure air pump would be, or how much flow would be necessary from the tank and the pressure regulator. Probably not feasible or someone would have already done it, but an interesting concept imo

after looking it up, a hp pump is too large. If this system did work, It would have to work like nos, and change out bottles as they emptied. Plus even at 3000 psi, I don't know if there is enough volume to spin up a turbo, or what kind of lag you would get.

[WNDSRFR]

I thank everyone for their help and suggestions. I checked them all out and came up with nothing.
Finally broke down and PM'd Rob.
His usual outstanding customer service strikes again. I got an almost immediate response with some things to check out. One of the things he wanted me to check was to turn off the volt meter switch and turn on the ignition then turn on the volt meter switch and listen for the controller to beep. There was no beep only the fan turning on.
But something I did notice was a noise coming from the MAF area.
Can someone check and see if this is normal? Don't start the car just turn the ignition switch all the way on and listen for noise around the MAF (intake manifold).
So I'm going PM Rob again and see what to do next.


Oh, one thing I forgot to mention is what I was doing when the ESC failed. I was doing burn outs because I'm getting new tires on Monday and figured "what the hell might as well take these down to the belts".
My plan was to do a flat foot shift from 1st to 2nd and 3rd and see if I could spin the tires continuously all the way thru 3rd gear. But that's when the car went into wimp mode. And it's been in wimp mode ever since.

[WNDSRFR]

I'm back to NA. I had to jury rig the intake back on because I'm not going to replace the stupid sound tube. Looks like I might be NA for a while so I need to make an alcohol run. No way I'm going back to NA on gas. I went through 30 gallons of E85 last week I was having so much fun with the new tune. I got 2 more gas cans so now I can transport 40 gallons at a time.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

I'm back to NA. I had to jury rig the intake back on because I'm not going to replace the stupid sound tube. Looks like I might be NA for a while so I need to make an alcohol run. No way I'm going back to NA on gas. I went through 30 gallons of E85 last week I was having so much fun with the new tune. I got 2 more gas cans so now I can transport 40 gallons at a time.

Pull out the maf. One member had filter particles on the maf and it caused issues.

[Boofneenee]

I know this question has been answered before even when I posted it. I have the opportunity to buy it used from someone and I would like to hear your answers just one last time. How close to stock does this car drive when the boost is not engaged? This is very important to me as I am driving at partial throttle more often than I ever drive WOT engaging the boost. I don't want to lose the underpowered but snappy throttle response from 2.5 to 3.5k that I describe as the "playful area" Fenton has said you lose about 10hp up top around 6k which does not matter to me. However their was a dyno posted a few pages back by Jac showing a comparison dyno of stock vs this system with the DR system. This dyno clearly showed that stock had more tq and HP in that playful area with the DR exceeding stock around 4k and up. Maybe he had an older system/ controller ? Thx in advance

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by Boofneenee

I know this question has been answered before even when I posted it. I have the opportunity to buy it used from someone and I would like to hear your answers just one last time. How close to stock does this car drive when the boost is not engaged? This is very important to me as I am driving at partial throttle more often than I ever drive WOT engaging the boost. I don't want to lose the underpowered but snappy throttle response from 2.5 to 3.5k that I describe as the "playful area" Fenton has said you lose about 10hp up top around 6k which does not matter to me. However their was a dyno posted a few pages back by Jac showing a comparison dyno of stock vs this system with the DR system. This dyno clearly showed that stock had more tq and HP in that playful area with the DR exceeding stock around 4k and up. Maybe he had an older system/ controller ? Thx in advance

Without activating the unit (but still on so that drag reduction is functioning) there is no difference on the car.

It feels and drives the same. Activate the the throttle switch and you have a very fun car now.

Trust me it's worth it, and I know nlowell has taken care of the system. It's a good buy.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by Boofneenee

I know this question has been answered before even when I posted it. I have the opportunity to buy it used from someone and I would like to hear your answers just one last time. How close to stock does this car drive when the boost is not engaged? This is very important to me as I am driving at partial throttle more often than I ever drive WOT engaging the boost. I don't want to lose the underpowered but snappy throttle response from 2.5 to 3.5k that I describe as the "playful area" Fenton has said you lose about 10hp up top around 6k which does not matter to me. However their was a dyno posted a few pages back by Jac showing a comparison dyno of stock vs this system with the DR system. This dyno clearly showed that stock had more tq and HP in that playful area with the DR exceeding stock around 4k and up. Maybe he had an older system/ controller ? Thx in advance

You will lose a little but it still has the exact same character.... Its snappy and just wants to go the same as it did before.

Here is my DR graph.

[Winjr]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

I'm back to NA. I had to jury rig the intake back on because I'm not going to replace the stupid sound tube.

To cap off where the intake meets the sound tube garbage, I found in my garage a cap from a bottle of insecticide that fits perfect and clamped it. Looks cleaner than that big 'ol box sitting there.

[Boofneenee]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Without activating the unit (but still on so that drag reduction is functioning) there is no difference on the car.

It feels and drives the same. Activate the the throttle switch and you have a very fun car now.

Trust me it's worth it, and I know nlowell has taken care if the system. It's a good buy.

Im not buying it from nlowell

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by Boofneenee

Im not buying it from nlowell

Interesting.