Idle issue?

[Hotlava86]

I have noticed that in the last few days here in kansas city since it has been on average about 25-30 degrees cooler. (75-80) as opposed to 110. that the issue is not NEARLY as prominent.

[mike2100]

Originally Posted by ruskymx

I've had Visconti's STG1 v2 Tune on my car for the last 7-10 days and my idle dip is gone. His tune corrects it.

From what I read of his posts he just raises the idle, usually a band-aid solution to a symptom rather than the problem.

[ruskymx]

Originally Posted by eriktherod

My theory is that when tuning the ECU, Toyota accurately mapped a temperature range for Japan (we'll say <86*F). So with a common heat soak of +10-15*F on the intake air, they have it mapped properly for <100*F and I don't think I've seen it happen on temperatures that 'low'. However, once you start getting into the higher temperatures, the ignition timing retards back more and reaches a point where the ECU can't hold the rpms as steady at idle so it just does this balancing act instead.

If this is true, then it's just a matter of Toyota/Subaru playing with those mapped values to alleviate it. It could be that they knew about it, felt it wasn't a major (problematic) issue and can fix it once the car is out.

I'd love to hear how you guys in extreme heat (TX/AZ) have been with the car at idle.

Here's a pic of Dash Command running on my phone at idle showing timing and ambient temps.



Sitting at the same red light, just seconds apart (amount of time for screen to change when tapping ambient temp) and this is what the intake air temp showed.

Originally Posted by mike2100

From what I read of his posts he just raises the idle, usually a band-aid solution to a symptom rather than the problem.

I have 400-500 miles or so on the tune and it hasn't happened once since the tune. It has worked so far and hasn't thrown a CEL so until it does, I'm considering it fixed.

Ruskymx

[Bonburner]

Just found this in the BRZ Service Shop Manual -
Idle speed at Park or
Neutral position
MT rpm 650+/-100
AT rpm 700+/-100

Obviously 400 dip is too low.

[Hammer]

So I picked up my BRZ today from Subaru Santa Monica, drove down PCH in stop and go traffic, started having the idle issue that so many of you are having, and then the CEL light went off. So... 30 miles later my car is back at the dealer and I'm back to the waiting game. Hopefully they fix this issue soon

[dano]

Originally Posted by dano

First post, to chime in...My FR-S is about three weeks old, about 500 miles on it. Second tank of known gas (filled by me, not the port of entry, or the free Dealer fill-up).

It's had the rough idle issue. Happened twice. The second time, it dipped to about 300-400 RPM, then leveled out. This was at a stop light after 10-15 minutes of city driving. It's always a bit rough when cold.

It also chirps. But, after freeway driving in high heat (where I live, it's been upper 80's during the day).

No CEL's

Decided to take it in, mainly for documentation purposes. The Dealer only had two mechanics trained on the new engine, so they consulted with the "Lead" Scion techs. They said the chirping was the Direct Injection bleeding off pressure. As for the idle, they noted it in the Case File, but nothing was found.

I've driven it pretty hard, and no other issues have creeped up with the engine. My first to second gear synchro, though, can be a bit rough.

Food for thought: The last first model year car I bought was an '07 Mazdaspeed3. The big scare story for that car was the failure of motor mounts, which could cause the engine to, literally, fall out. Mazda eventually issued a TSB for it, but there was only a few reported incidents. Also, that car had a bit of a rough idle, which was more of a perceived problem inside the car, so some aftermarket tranny and engine mounts became popular to curb the cabin roughness. Seems the internet always fuels some fires, I guess.

--dan

Just an update: I've noticed a few things. Upon startup, the car will idle about 1500RPMs, then a very brief stutter before dropping to 650RPM's. This is normal for most cars. However, the transition between RPM values is pretty harsh; I'm guessing it's some sort of transition between the two different injectors that are used?

I've only had one other instance of RPM drop. It dropped to 300 or so, shook and stumbled for a second, then was back to normal (no CEL). I'm also wondering if this has something to do with the transition between the two different injectors?

Normal idle quality is still pretty rough. And 1st to 2nd shifting is smoothing out, though, can be a bit clunky at times. My "Cricket" is completely gone.

About 1500 total miles.

--dan

[Bonburner]

See the actual switch from fuel injectors should not be harsh by any means - there shouldn't be any difficulties.

[driftartist]

Did anyone else remember this is a new car? Not a kp or ae that has hella miles and what not? But a new car. Nothing is wrong

[Hawaiian]

Originally Posted by driftartist

Did anyone else remember this is a new car? Not a kp or ae that has hella miles and what not? But a new car. Nothing is wrong

Yeah, didn't you get the memo? New cars all throw CEL's.

[driftartist]

Ahh yes....well i better change out all the sensors and redo the cam shaft timing as a precaution now just in case hehe hawaiian ur awesome man

[azburnin]

I just dropped mine off at the dealership. I'm having the same issue each one of you are having, I've been going crazy trying to think of what this shuddery idle dip is. So it's good to read every ones thoughts.

The Toyota guy that I always deal with said that toyota hasn't sent him any info on what problems with the FR-S/ BRZ. So I will be having a telephone conference with the master tech to figure this out.

Very saddened by this... But it is a Gen 1 car. looks like it should of been and older power plant something proven.

[yayforaddison]

Hey everyone! Been a while since I've been on the forum. Wanted to give everyone an update on my own car.

Well its gotten worse. Much worse :/
Now when the idle dips, it starts bouncing from 500-1,000 NON STOP unless I blip the throttle. Its happened 3 times now within the past week. I've been trying to get a video of it, but the light always turns green before my camera loads

I never know when its going to happen tho, so I'm afraid to even bother taking it to the dealer. Very tempted now that its gotten this bad, but they would have to drive the poo out of my car, and then hope they even see it...

I do have a buddy near by who actually got an axle back exhaust/muffler, who says his idle dip has gone away since the upgrade. Could this all be back pressure related???

[azburnin]

Originally Posted by yayforaddison

Hey everyone! Been a while since I've been on the forum. Wanted to give everyone an update on my own car.

Well its gotten worse. Much worse :/
Now when the idle dips, it starts bouncing from 500-1,000 NON STOP unless I blip the throttle. Its happened 3 times now within the past week. I've been trying to get a video of it, but the light always turns green before my camera loads

I never know when its going to happen tho, so I'm afraid to even bother taking it to the dealer. Very tempted now that its gotten this bad, but they would have to drive the poo out of my car, and then hope they even see it...

I do have a buddy near by who actually got an axle back exhaust/muffler, who says his idle dip has gone away since the upgrade. Could this all be back pressure related???

I would definitely take it into the dealer, the more people bring this issue to them. Then they'll fix it quicker, adding bolt ons isn't the way to go. The vehicle should be able to run perfect "stock". The back pressure could be an issue, who knows unless it's trouble shot.

How many miles are in your car?

[Hammer]

So I followed up with my dealer just now and they told me Subaru is suppose to release a fix for this issue some time this week. I will keep you guys updated when I know more. I'm just gonna leave it there until they fix it.