05-18-2015, 05:56 PM | #6371 | |
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Quote:
There's cheese on the inlet casting, plus bolts, and an o-ring to mind when removing said casting. The blower assembly is easier to work with, removing it from the spider manifold. The inlet casting is a bit of a pain to remove and reinstall. It was never meant to be removed by the end user. I'll post some pictures on FB, but I need to do them for all of the kits. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to SprintexUSA For This Useful Post: | vaderbloke (05-18-2015) |
05-19-2015, 11:22 AM | #6372 |
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I had another smoke test done and the only leak they found was on the fastener that seems to hold 1 side of the actuator butterfly valve (see attached pic). Although it is a small leak I am wondering if it could be causing some of the below 3K RPM hesitation. Has anyone else encountered this leak? I am not sure how it can be sealed?
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05-19-2015, 05:07 PM | #6373 |
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i had this same leak too.. ^.. motor popped and since went to the 335 kit
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The Following User Says Thank You to blown For This Useful Post: | Dream20b (05-19-2015) |
05-20-2015, 01:52 AM | #6374 |
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05-21-2015, 05:06 PM | #6375 |
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I'm trying to understand how the recirc valve is supposed to work.
-Currently, my valve stays in the open position (halfway down) when i'm idling, which I think is correct. After I shut off my car, it stays in that position too (even after the next morning). -I'm able to push the valve completely all the way to the left, which sounds like it shouldn't be able to So to fix this, I have to loosen the bottom bolt and the top bolt? The top looks like it'll require a socket to loosen the outer ring and then a hex to adjust the center bolt. Do I turn the the top bolt counter clockwise? Or do I have to get a whole new assembly? Overall the car seems to run well, but I have no point of reference of how it 'should' feel.
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05-21-2015, 07:27 PM | #6376 |
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Yes that is the over half we have been talking about . You need to adjust the bottom bolt and slide it to the right so it pre loads
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05-22-2015, 12:15 AM | #6377 | |
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Quote:
I can't really push it back on as the valve is putting up resistance from me doing so and I don't really want to push really hard since it won't stay anyway since the rivet or whatever was holding it, isn't re-connectable. Here's some pics of my valve partially broken off the metal mounting spot:
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05-22-2015, 11:47 AM | #6378 |
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I have spares. 855-591-2778.
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05-22-2015, 05:15 PM | #6379 |
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BTW, we're addressing that "spare" situation. I've got radiators, pumps, 335 upgrade kits, intercooler kits, (85mm, 80mm, 75mm, 69mm) pulleys, recirc valves, and some intake pipes. More stuff is inbound, but this is a good start.
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The Following User Says Thank You to SprintexUSA For This Useful Post: | brianhj (05-22-2015) |
05-22-2015, 05:18 PM | #6380 |
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My replacement kit has finally arrived! But, is my bypass valve broken again? Sprintex wrapped a sticker around it for protection it seems.
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05-22-2015, 05:22 PM | #6382 |
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I taped it to protect it from debris. That looks like it survived. The soft foam insert (with the slit in the middle) behind it did its job.
We leave that signal hose disconnected. How does the rest look? (Edit-- I should get some 1/4 rubber caps and cover those instead of tape.) |
The Following User Says Thank You to SprintexUSA For This Useful Post: | Chad86 (05-22-2015) |
05-22-2015, 05:30 PM | #6383 | |
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Quote:
Thanks for getting this issue resolved @moto-mike and @SprintexUSA |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Chad86 For This Useful Post: | SprintexUSA (05-22-2015) |
05-22-2015, 07:38 PM | #6384 |
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Hey @SprintexUSA where can I get another one of those little rubber elbows? (circled in the pic).
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Raven FR-S mods: Unichip, Ground Control street coilovers with camber plates and strut tower brace, SPC Lca's, Drag DR-38 wheels with Dunlop Direzza DZ101s, Perrin CAI and silicone inlet tube, Perrin 3" resonated catback, Perrin high flow catted front pipe, Rev Works UEL header.
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