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Old 05-05-2016, 03:14 AM   #561
Fish Eagle
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Phew, thanks for your kind words.
I thought Sunday was anything but smooth.
I tried with nannies off, in sport mode, with nannies fully on, I tried aggressive, I tried gentle and smooth and all of that amounted to was a negligable 0.1 sec diff
I've actually got video of powersliding T5 (the 180° hairpin) with the nannies fully on. I had so little grip that even with the power stifled by the nannies, there was still enough to powerslide - LOL.

What did work well was using higher gears to reduce power and torque, and make throttle inputs less sensitive - like using 3rd thru the chicane and the central section.

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What do you intend on doing to get more negative camber at the front?
(Coilovers ? just trying to figure out what one could do while keeping suspension relatively stock)
No coilovers. It's a fun car and a daily (sometimes) for Lindy and I who enjoy just driving it, and harder suspension would spoil that. I'm going to have the struts slightly slotted. Discussed the plan with my sponsor yesterday, and they'll do it for me before the Pets event which will be a good test building up to Mich Cup at RSR.

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I use Toyo R888's,
I chose them because they were affordable Approx R1200 each for 16inch, and they are legal road tyres.
I'm going to experiment with a variety of road-legal semis, and R888 is one that's on my list. My sponsor has also located a set of Yoko AD08's in 235/40R17 which I'm going to test too.
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Old 05-05-2016, 04:09 AM   #562
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Coilovers doesn't necessarily mean harder, that would be a function of the spring rates(which you can specify, with valving to suit). It would give you much more adjustability in terms of camber, ride height and damping.

Else simply get camber plates.
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Old 05-05-2016, 04:28 AM   #563
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Else simply get camber plates.
Thanks.

What do camber plates cost nowdays?
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Old 05-05-2016, 04:52 AM   #564
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Thanks.

What do camber plates cost nowdays?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MK1-Adjustab...VSAeK3&vxp=mtr

Maybe Ryan can organize cheaper?
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Old 05-05-2016, 05:34 AM   #565
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Thanks.

What do camber plates cost nowdays?
or if your still on stock struts you can get about -1.5 with these

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/SALE-WHITEL...638?nav=SEARCH
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Old 05-05-2016, 05:42 AM   #566
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or if your still on stock struts you can get about -1.5 with these

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/SALE-WHITEL...638?nav=SEARCH
Thanks, I've already got -1.5° with OEM crash bolts.
I need to go to -2.5°
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Old 05-05-2016, 07:09 AM   #567
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or if your still on stock struts you can get about -1.5 with these

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/SALE-WHITEL...638?nav=SEARCH
That's what I'm running - can get a bit more than with the Toyota crush bolts but not worth the price considering Toyota wants about AU$4 each for them.

I've bought them because Toyota didn't have stock at the time.
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:21 AM   #568
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Well, after 3+ years, 75000 kms, and 30 track days, I've had my second failure - clutch thrust bearing seized. (First failure was a cracked header, which I had welded up 6 mths ago, and it's still OK)

I have no idea why the thrust bearing failed, but I'd resigned myself to probably also replacing clutch plate and pressure plate while it was out. The good news is that my clutch plate and pressure plate look great, and they're going back as is. Recently someone said that you have to upgrade clutch if you go FI - this is proof that you don't. I believe that the real clutch killers are drag racing and gymkhanas - which I don't do.
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:32 AM   #569
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Regarding buying parts...

The thrust bearing is the second example I've had where I've compared prices between Toyota and Subaru, and again Subaru came out tops, by far.

Imperial Toyoya Nelspruit quoted Toyota list price.
NTT Toyota Barberton (my dealer) quoted Toyota list -20%
Subaru Nelspruit came out at 17.5% less than NTT Bton

We're lucky to have the choice of supply channel, and the price differences are substantial, so always get a quote from both.
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Old 05-21-2016, 12:16 PM   #570
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Cool, yeah mine also recently failed. bearing and clutch replaced under warranty. Plate was also still looking good but they said they've replaced it anyway while the box was out because the springs were a little bit rattly.
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Old 05-22-2016, 04:33 AM   #571
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@Fish Eagle what were the symptoms of the failure? Was it gradual or sudden?
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Old 05-22-2016, 05:11 AM   #572
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@Fish Eagle what were the symptoms of the failure? Was it gradual or sudden?
It was quick. One day I could just make out a very faint noise, the next day it was screeching terribly. But it did get me home (40kms) and to the workshop (another 10kms) without total failure, and with hardly any damage to the fingers of the pressure plate. After it seized, it was sliding against the PP fingers.

I don't think that FI or racing contributed to failure. Normally thrust bearing failure come from lightly resting one's foot on the clutch a lot, which I don't. So I dunno, but I'm not hassled either way.
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Old 05-22-2016, 04:20 PM   #573
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Thank you for the detail and pics @Fish Eagle,

I have been noticing loud clutch noises for 2 months now,

Took it to Toyota and they greased a few parts (I think one of them was a spring).

Toyota didn't know what else to do, the noise came back in 2 days of driving.

I hope it does not lead to any failures,

I read up on this thread, but there does not seem to be any solution, other than getting your clutch replaced (Or in your case, the part replaced).
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56882
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Old 05-23-2016, 02:49 AM   #574
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The sound in those videos says linkage to me. It's not relative to rotation of the clutch, so I'd rule out clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing.
Very different to the noises mine made.

If I had that noise, I'd lube everything to do with the pedal and linkages with Q20 or Tool-in-a-Can, but that's guesswork.
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