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Old 05-24-2014, 07:41 AM   #5615
shif7i7down
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Originally Posted by robwbright View Post

The install probably took me a total of 3 hours of actual work time. Longer than some because I had to take a conference call and revise a contract right in the middle of installing the batteries and wiring. That...
Would be awesome if you could post up a couple of instructions with detail pictures about the issues you had and how you solved it so that we could maybe compile a more complete and detailed install instruction.
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Old 05-24-2014, 11:28 AM   #5616
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Would be awesome if you could post up a couple of instructions with detail pictures about the issues you had and how you solved it so that we could maybe compile a more complete and detailed install instruction.
The 1.5 dump pack instructions were where most of my hesitation/confusion occurred...

At the very top in parenthesis, it mentions "Filament tape recommended". Apparently duct tape is fine. I didn't have any filament tape, so I went with duct tape.

The top row right pic is the finished product. Don't go ahead and set the batteries in the tray. Just wait.

The 2nd row left pic is irrelevant if you ordered the 1.5 dump pack - you're not doing the conversion from dump 1.0, so you will only receive the longer block with the negative cable already installed.

On the 2nd row middle pic, don't be too concerned about breaking terminals off when bending them up. They seem to be plenty bendable. Note: you will have to bend them up close to the body of the battery, as the "series block" connectors are just long enough. I bent and re-bent multiple times until I was comfortable with the connections.

3rd row middle pic: The kit tray seems to be designed to fit in the oem tray. I had already taped all the batteries together, so I just set them all in the tray after putting the tray in. When it says "Install 12v starter" that obviously means "12v starter battery". DO NOT FORGET TO INSTALL THE COPPER CONNECTOR ON THE BACK OF THE MAIN DUMP before moving to next pic.

3rd row, right pic: My cover sheet was cut out for the positive terminal, but was not cut out for the ground cable. I just cut out a portion along the edge for the ground cable. Yes, install factory pos and neg wires. DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM DOWN YET.
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Old 05-24-2014, 11:50 AM   #5617
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Originally Posted by alexand3r View Post
So I received the correct battery today and the install went great. I'm on a 6AT and I am quite impressed with this system for the cost. In Sport Mode it holds boost (throttle down the whole time), shifts in the blink of an eye and just KEEPS PULLING through the gears... my batteries aren't even conditioned yet...


-----------
Story Time
-----------
I was out "conditioning the batteries" and a 350Z pulled up next to me. It was lowered, had exhaust and who knows what else. Anyway, I was by myself and he had someone in the car... but I pulled a full car length ahead of him on our way up to 70 (highway), which really surprised me.
It must be really fun in a AT because those longer gears zap some of the fun with Na.... Add a little boost and now you have a nice torque platue to work with a full boost shifts
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Old 05-24-2014, 12:07 PM   #5618
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Would be awesome if you could post up a couple of instructions with detail pictures about the issues you had and how you solved it so that we could maybe compile a more complete and detailed install instruction.
Note: If I don't mention a pic and it's instructions, that means just do whatever it says - it should be self explanatory.

START with the regular install instructions. Some of the confusion came from reading only the 1/2 dump conversion instructions for putting the battery packs together (I thought I'd just go ahead and get the battery pack together) BEFORE doing anything else. Read both the single dump and 1/2 dump instructions together before starting and it should save you some time.

Again, start with the regular install instructions, then switch to 1/2 dump instructions when I note that below.

Top row left pic: Ignore "bolt copper series connector" (you'll do that after you put the batteries in the tray but BEFORE putting on the cover sheet and holddown block - see 1/2 dump conversion instructions). Go ahead and tape the main dump batteries together. Ignore the other batteries for the time being. Don't do top row right pic yet. You'll do that later.

2nd row left: I'd just say be careful when you drill the rivets out so as not to get any metal shavings down in the airbox.

2nd row right: When you reinstall the intake box, don't tighten it all down yet. And don't forget to hook up the connector that connects to the intake box - my connector had slipped below the level of the intake box and I just didn't notice it. That connector being disconnected gave me two CELs even though I had flashed Shiv's OFT tune.

The instructions don't really mention the sound tube at all. After removing the resonator and reinstalling the intake box, the sound tube will just be hanging out there. It bolts on to the top left of the engine and then down and into the firewall. Just pull on it and it will come right out.

Bottom row left: Make sure your clamps are all tight and turned up where you can get to them. Also, this is where you will want to play with adjusting the clamps, compressor and intake box so as to get a good fit on the intake box against the piece that it connects to coming from the bumper. I didn't do those adjustments (yet) and my intake box is slightly sideways (look several posts up for a pic).

Bottom row right: The control box is a bit of a tight fit. You'll probaly find it easier if you put the bolt thru the frame hole first, then set the control box down over it.

Turn page... now switch to 1/2 dump instruction page, 2nd row, middle pic. Go ahead and follow those instructions down to the end of the 1/2 dump instructions.

Now back to page 2 of the regular install instructions... but you'll have already done most of the top row of pics when you followed the 1/2 dump instructions. The exception is "Use factory [battery] hold clamp" from top row middle pic - that's obvious, but not mentioned on the 1/2 dump pack instructions.

Top row right pic: NOW you've gotten to why I said not to tighten the pos and neg terminals. "Connect eyelets to pos/neg factory clamps...". NOW you can tighten them up.

2nd row left pic: Before you get under the dash by the throttle pedal, you'll probably look funny at the WOT bracket and wonder how that's going to mount. Look at it and notice how the switch mechanism works. Then, once you get under there, the connection point will be VERY obvious. There a threaded stud sticking out behind the throttle pedal. Mount the bracket there so that the throttle pedal arm hits the switch and bend to what appears to be somewhere between 70 and 90% of the movement of the throttle pedal towards the floor.

2nd row middle pic: I hate breaking plastic pieces in cars. I was a little concerned about removing the lower console center panels. Don't be. Just pry on the edges until the plastic rivets pop loose. If I recall, there are three - one on the forward facing edge, one on the back facing edge and one upper middle. Do the forward and back first, then pop the upper middle. After those panels are removed it's pretty easy to snake the wires thru.

Bottom middle pic: I just left the fuse cover off. Not sure what others are doing.

Bottom right pic: The 1/8" rubber line connects to a little nub/nipple on the passenger side of the mounted control box. Can't see that in the pic.

I think that covers all of my issues. Some of those will be obvious to others, and some of them only made me hesitate for a few seconds. A couple of them resulted in me wasting 20-30 minutes. I hope my notes help speed up your install.
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Old 05-24-2014, 12:59 PM   #5619
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Installed my 1.5 dump pack!

Installation summary
  1. Very simple, good instructions
  2. The new battery tray doesn't fit very secure at all. Makes me nervous.
  3. The installation for me would've been 10000% easier if the new long block came with a negative cable already inserted.



Installation was very simple apart from one part, removing the negative cable from the short block and inserting into the long block. This honestly probably took me 30-45mins of struggling taking it out of the short and forcing it into the long block.

After spending 45mins getting it into the long block the connector decided to snap off after i tried to bend it back into place, thank you Rob for including a replacement in the kit!


Although my plier did not survive the installation


The negative cable itself didn't fair too well either, see the exposed copper. Some electrical tape fixed that though.


After doing a few WOT runs my first impressions are that the 1.5 dump pack doesn't feel anymore powerful (peak torque i mean) but definitely feels like it holds the power for longer. Before i felt peak torque start to drop at 5K RPM, now maybe i feel it start to drop around 6K RPM.

I'd suggest the ESC should've probably come this way from the beginning but its a nice upgrade!

Planning to hit the dyno next week and will report back with the gains
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Old 05-24-2014, 01:08 PM   #5620
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[*]The new battery tray doesn't fit very secure at all. Makes me nervous.
Did you set it on the OEM battery tray? It appears to be designed to work with it. The oem fits down in the two little holes which help hold it in place. The 1.5 dump tray fits nicely down in the OEM.
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Old 05-24-2014, 01:19 PM   #5621
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I just want to say thank you to all the people posting notes and suggestions on the install.

This is such a great community that wants to help anyone and everyone.

All of this critism is great and will be built into future revisions of the kit where applicable.
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Old 05-24-2014, 01:37 PM   #5622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jac View Post
Installed my 1.5 dump pack!



Installation summary
  1. Very simple, good instructions
  2. The new battery tray doesn't fit very secure at all. Makes me nervous.
  3. The installation for me would've been 10000% easier if the new long block came with a negative cable already inserted.







Installation was very simple apart from one part, removing the negative cable from the short block and inserting into the long block. This honestly probably took me 30-45mins of struggling taking it out of the short and forcing it into the long block.



After spending 45mins getting it into the long block the connector decided to snap off after i tried to bend it back into place, thank you Rob for including a replacement in the kit!





Although my plier did not survive the installation





The negative cable itself didn't fair too well either, see the exposed copper. Some electrical tape fixed that though.





After doing a few WOT runs my first impressions are that the 1.5 dump pack doesn't feel anymore powerful (peak torque i mean) but definitely feels like it holds the power for longer. Before i felt peak torque start to drop at 5K RPM, now maybe i feel it start to drop around 6K RPM.



I'd suggest the ESC should've probably come this way from the beginning but its a nice upgrade!



Planning to hit the dyno next week and will report back with the gains

I love the new battery tray. Double check your positioning. Both nlowell and I found it more secure.
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Old 05-24-2014, 02:58 PM   #5623
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Exciting isn't it?
It changes the car, in a good way
Just think you got the battery break in and 1.5 conversion still as well
I actually have the 1.5 Kit along with a JDL UEL Header and Overpipe.

I'm really looking forward to E85, though. I think that will really take advantage of the boost.


Quote:
Originally Posted by fenton View Post
It must be really fun in a AT because those longer gears zap some of the fun with Na.... Add a little boost and now you have a nice torque platue to work with a full boost shifts
Indeed! I would equate it to FFS, it just stays activated and stays in boost. I can't wait to get some good logs once everything is broken in and the tune stabilizes. I'm guessing we'll see a linear graph of the boost falling off through the gears.

Now I just need to get that SSP shift kit and a higher ratio final drive...
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Old 05-24-2014, 03:00 PM   #5624
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Ok, here is a log. This was basically two 0-60 runs, the first without the ESC and the second with it.

http://datazap.me/u/stormalong/esc-t...&data=1-2-9-12

Don't know if this tells anyone anything, I'm still figuring out how to interpret it.
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Old 05-24-2014, 03:01 PM   #5625
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Originally Posted by alexand3r View Post
I actually have the 1.5 Kit along with a JDL UEL Header and Overpipe.

I'm really looking forward to E85, though. I think that will really take advantage of the boost.




Indeed! I would equate it to FFS, it just stays activated and stays in boost. I can't wait to get some good logs once everything is broken in and the tune stabilizes. I'm guessing we'll see a linear graph of the boost falling off through the gears.

Now I just need to get that SSP shift kit and a higher ratio final drive...
Wow I bet that sounds good!

E85 is really going to change this for the better for the people that have it available to them. Take a video and post it up for other to see :-)

I'm installing the Ofh today and will post some videos up later as well
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Old 05-24-2014, 03:45 PM   #5626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jac View Post
Installed my 1.5 dump pack!

Installation summary
  1. Very simple, good instructions
  2. The new battery tray doesn't fit very secure at all. Makes me nervous.
  3. The installation for me would've been 10000% easier if the new long block came with a negative cable already inserted.After doing a few WOT runs my first impressions are that the 1.5 dump pack doesn't feel anymore powerful (peak torque i mean) but definitely feels like it holds the power for longer. Before i felt peak torque start to drop at 5K RPM, now maybe i feel it start to drop around 6K RPM.
What were the needle-nose pliers used for? For the life of me I can't figure out how you boogered-up that terminal. You didn't use the needle-nose pliers on it, did you?

Purchase your tools from SnapOn or Craftsman and you'll never have to worry about a broken tool because 1) they don't break, and 2) they have a lifetime warranty. Cheap tools will just piss you off.
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Old 05-24-2014, 03:56 PM   #5627
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Wow I bet that sounds good!

E85 is really going to change this for the better for the people that have it available to them. Take a video and post it up for other to see :-)

I'm installing the Ofh today and will post some videos up later as well
It sounds amazing, I'm happy to hear that you'll be joining the UEL club!


------------
Remember:
------------

Header to Cylinder - 22 ft-lb
Header to OP - 26 ft-lb


Do a circular pattern on the bolts and keep torque reletively even until they're ready for final torque. A crows foot socket and long extension makes the single header nut much easier to torque down. It also helps to start the car while it's still up in the air to get it warm and then re-torque.

You probably know what you're doing and I mean no offense. I've just been through the exhaust leak thing before and it's no fun!
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Old 05-24-2014, 03:58 PM   #5628
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Log 3 - you'll probably see a couple odd things in there - I'm still getting used to the extra power. I tried a couple fast launches and I over-clutched trying to avoid wheelspin.

http://www.datazap.me/u/robwbright/e...3?log=0&data=1
Hey Rob, I was looking through your two logs. I couldn't quite find a clean full gear pull. The way I do gear pull logs is I get into the gear (2nd or 3rd) and cruise down the road and hold the throttle at the starting rpm (like 3,000). I then floor it to 100% throttle and run it all the way to red-line then shift and let off the throttle.

After doing a couple of runs I download the log and upload to datazap.me

First I turn on just Throttle and zoom in on a section where I went full throttle. I then turn on RPM. This is what that looks like:




I then turn off Throttle and turn on AFR to see how that looks:




Finally, I turn off AFR and turn on boost to see how that was. Notice there is a ~1 second lag between full throttle and boost pressure and for some reason no boost is being logged as 72lbs of boost...



I'm still running lean for some reason and have a bump early on (< 5,000 RPM). I'm going to get this straightened out once the e85 tune comes out.

If anyone thinks this isn't the right way to run gear pull logs please let me know. I'm by no means an expert!
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