Pure Motorsport: JDL Turbo BRZ Track Build

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by stevo_12v

Hahaha! That'lll be me allright!
I'll fix it up when I get a proper dual catch can setup(Radium).

I'm glad that post was able to pay it forward and correct at least one PCV system! The crazy thing is that Cusco are selling their catch can kits and still picturing them in their catalog incorrectly routed to front breather hose.

I'm not sure what the included instructions say, but there has been some recent confusion on how the Cusco kit's hoses are supposed to be routed.

Hope you can begin catching some (but not much) real blow by soon!

[stevo_12v]

EXACTLY!! I just followed what the CUSCO instructions had on their diagram. Apparently the connection from where I have it, it is for high RPM blow by? Somebody mentioned it to me online but I forgot who, not sure if the information is correct though.
But needless to say, I'll be going for a dual Radium catch can setup, one for the front and the back.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by stevo_12v

Apparently the connection from where I have it, it is for high RPM blow by? Somebody mentioned it to me online but I forgot who, not sure if the information is correct though.

As I understand it and quoting a few of the facts from @Dezoris , the front breather tube under the AC compressor is not under vacuum. 80-90% of all blow by gas is routed to through the PCV valve at the back of the block under the intake manifold, where the hose connects to the top of the intake manifold. This is where you will collect the most amount of oil, unburned fuel and water vapor in a catch can. The front breather tube is for excess blow by not routed through PCV only under high load, namely in forced induction.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

As I understand it and quoting a few of the facts from @Dezoris , the front breather tube under the AC compressor is not under vacuum. 80-90% of all blow by gas is routed to through the PCV valve at the back of the block under the intake manifold, where the hose connects to the top of the intake manifold. This is where you will collect the most amount of oil, unburned fuel and water vapor in a catch can. The front breather tube is for excess blow by not routed through PCV only under high load, namely in forced induction.

This is all correct. The only risk of running a can on the PCV line is vacuum leaks. Make sure the lines and can are sealed. Why I chose a more expensive can with velocity testing done. It maybe that cusco never designed their can to handle vacuum and put it on the breather side in the instructions. Something only they can answer but good luck.

[ATL BRZ]

Driveway Performance Labs had the Hancha group do some CFD analysis on their diffuser. I found this stuff fascinating.

Original thread with lots more data: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48283

Originally Posted by Wonderbar

The models say it's functional. It reduces drag and gets rid of all 90 lbs of lift the car generates at 100mph stock and makes downforce on top of that!

Since installing it doing even 85-90 mph on the highway with it I'd definitely agree with the models.
The rear tires feel more planted and the car stopped wiggling around so much when braking from high speeds.

[ravenblackfrs]

I don't know what it means... but I like it!!! lol

[Stevo22]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

My Driveway Labs aluminum rear diffuser arrived today. I'll be testing it at high speeds at my next track day at Road Atlanta at the end of October.

What group you going with?

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Stevo22

What group you going with?

Peachstate Porsche Club

[Stevo22]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

Peachstate Porsche Club

Can you pm me the details? Would I be allowed to go. I think you have to pay a membership fee or something right?

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Stevo22

Can you pm me the details? Would I be allowed to go. I think you have to pay a membership fee or something right?

PM sent with details. It has recently been the most popular event of the year so it may be sold out already.

Originally Posted by ravenblackfrs

I don't know what it means... but I like it!!! lol

It means the diffuser reduces drag, gets rid of all the lift the car generates stock at 100mph and makes measurable downforce on top of that, which translates into MORE GRIP!

[King Tut]

Do want that diffuser. I was critical of the price originally, but now I think I really need it in my life.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by King Tut

Do want that diffuser. I was critical of the price originally, but now I think I really need it in my life.

All things considered after driving with it for a while I'd say it's definitely worth it. It's one of my favorite mods so far.

I bet it would look good in black against WRB.

[n8dog11914]

Hey,

I was just wondering how your HC+800s are holding up to multiple track duty? Mine were fine for the first three months, but I am now experiencing increased noise, almost like a whistling sound after the pads heat up and the noise gets progressively noisier the longer you drive the car. Also, occasionally I am getting a little almost pad knockback at extremely slow speeds like when you apply that final touch to the brake petal to finally stop the car. Any ideas?

Thanks,

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by n8dog11914

I was just wondering how your HC+800s are holding up to multiple track duty? Mine were fine for the first three months, but I am now experiencing increased noise, almost like a whistling sound after the pads heat up and the noise gets progressively noisier the longer you drive the car. Also, occasionally I am getting a little almost pad knockback at extremely slow speeds like when you apply that final touch to the brake petal to finally stop the car. Any ideas?

I've upgraded my pads to the Club Racers. The HC+800's were a nice hybrid pad but they wore a little too quickly for my driving style on track. The fronts had about 5mm left after three track days and almost 2000 miles. They stayed quiet for me, I have no idea what's going on with yours. I'd check the supplied shims and maybe try swapping the OEM shims over on to them. The OEM ones look like they are better at keeping things quiet with two layers of material clipped on to the pads. Some brake parts cleaner may help if you just clean everything off including the surface of the rotors really good.