TopSpeed.com - Scion FRS race car build

[philooo]

Electrical

This week I need to paint the roll cage bar and all new weld locations, but I have been annoyed for a long time that the metal dash support is all rusted, so I wanted to do something about it while I get into painting. As was putting away the wiring, I decided to try removing unnecessary the wires related to radio and airbags.

The airbags wires, always terminated by a yellow plug, join to a central control box located behind the dash usb plug. Then 2 looms go out, one on the driver side and one on the passenger side.

I did not know how interconnected of the airbag wiring was so I decided to undo/untape the main wire loom on the driver side. After spending a few hours on that, I can safely say they you coud simply cut all wires going to a yellow plug and pull them out of the main driver side harness. Anyways, I felt more at ease doing it nice and slow. I was also able to remove all the radio wires going to the amplifier.

Cables reference from wiring manual:
HD2 (radio amplifier) completely removed starting at driver feet to the rear seat driver side.
HD1 pins:
8+9 (speakers)
24 (buckle switch)
18 (driver door light switch)
H17 (airbag sensor) all cables leaving out of that box up their other ends on driver and passenger side.

Next I have to remove the radio cables going to the center console but these are going to be a pain, no sure if I'll do it.

For the AC system, I think I'll keep them in place, even though the HVAC box can't fit anymore in the stock location, I am not loosing hope to bring the AC back into the car. By simply having the evaporator piped/wired in... but that's another project.

[philooo]

I removed the dash bar and sent it to powder coating, the rust was driving me nuts

I n the meantime, I took the interior wiring harness and brought it inside for some trimming. I removed all wires related to Airbag and Radio. A couple of other useless sensors as well like the interior lighting. It was pretty easy to follow the electrical wiring guide. I opted for not opening the harness, but instead, cutting wires on both end and simply pull the wires out. It worked very well.

We'll see when it is time to restart the car LOL

Here are some before and after shots and the thrash generated. The weight saving is definitely not worth it, but I got rid of all the unnecessary wires that was previously zip tied everywhere and annoying my OCD

I actually kept all the HVAC wires, in case someone want to add them back, in the future. Much harder to add wires than remove them !

In the process of mastering the wiring schematics I discovered the connector D29, located behind the radio, it offer power cables, switched and constant, plus CAN high and CAN low. I am curious to see if anyone connected their data acquisition system to that plug.

[GSpeed]

Originally Posted by philooo

Thankfully, John at WOT-TECH in fort lauderdale, took the challenge and work his ass off to reach some pretty tough weld location. They are not pretty but they are now fully 360 degree weld and will pass NASA standards. He also installed a new diagonal bar, straight this time.

Hey, I know that guy! Small world! They were at the GRM Challenge in 2011 and 2009 when I was there, great group of people. Does he still have the "Texas A&M Racing" sticker on his truck?

I've still got some Condor Speed Shop T-shirts and coozies I rock on a regular basis, too.

Jake

[philooo]

Progress update, I have put the dash bar back in, and connected every wires, and miracle the car starts just fine ... that's a relief



I confirm that the car can run without ANY airbag sensors. I have at this point removed completely the airbag sensor located at the bottom of the central console, and all wirings associated.

PAINT
This was a pain, I brushed the metal with a drill metal brush, then sprayed rustoleum primer, then color matched paint, then a clear coat. Not perfect but saved a bunch of money.







I sent the dash bar to power coating, it came out great





AC RETROFIT

As I was working on the car, I realized that the AC module may fit... not the full HVAC box, but only the AC part.
I unscrewed the box and the bottom part is only the AC and electrical and it ended up fitting to the inch, below the knee bar I have in the car. Without the knee bar I would have certainly put the whole HVAC system back in but I like the extra bar.

The full HVAC box. White on the left side is the heat and directional conduits, on the right it is the recirculation conduits.


HVAC box less heating system


HVAC without heat or recirculation


HVAC - AC ONLY in the car


I am still working on putting the wiring wherein belong and arrange it nicely, but it is coming along nicely.
The only piece I am not super excited about is the placement of the fuse box and power steering box. But with a couple of zip ties, I think they are pretty secure. I wish there was a nice bracket available but the location is pretty tight and the cable are just long enough to go there, no wiggle room at all.



DISCOVERY - STEERING PULLS OUT
Of course now that I am done, I just realize that the whole front steering assembly can be pulled out without any tool. I am glad I found it out because it was not easy to screw the steering column back to the dash bar. Once the front part removed, it was much easier / lighter to put together.

Steering assembly:


The whole front part slides right out (all wiring is unplugged):


Only this part remains and it is much easier to work around the steering column... I wish I had done that... last week Hopefully it will help others.

[GSpeed]

Originally Posted by philooo

Progress update, I have put the dash bar back in, and connected every wires, and miracle the car starts just fine ... that's a relief



I confirm that the car can run without ANY airbag sensors. I have at this point removed completely the airbag sensor located at the bottom of the central console, and all wirings associated.

Dropbox pictures don't work on here, unfortunately. You can see them, but we can't. I ran into the same issue.

[philooo]

argh damned internet ...

Fixed using this internet trick

add ?raw=1 at the end of your drop link share url and it works ... why make it simple when you can make it complicated ! LOL

[GSpeed]

Hey, neat! I may steal that idea. I'd much rather host our pictures on Dropbox (that we pay for) vs. Imgur (that we don't)..

[philooo]

Wires are back in, nice and clean



Paint came out pretty good. Here is what I used.
- The primer (on the left) , I bought at home depot, nothing fancy
- The paint itself (in the middle) I bought at the automotive group and it is a spray can paint matching the OEM color, asphalt grey, in my case. It match extremely closely. Very handy.
- The final coat (on the right) is really giving a nice and strong clear coat. for a racecar, more than enough. I highly recommend it because even my overspray can barely be seen.
- Sanding, look that the 3M sand paper they sell on rolls like that one, they have rubber/elastic backing and they are really perfect to sand roll bars, you can grab one side on each hand and simply pull it like you would do on a towel.

My last 2 advise, tape and plastic protect the hell out of everything, because spraying roll cage is not fun, small spaces and having to spray front and back (right in your face...)



Next weekend will be at homestead, so I am putting it all back together, we'll see ...

[philooo]

AC WORK

If you have not followed my journal, I bought my car with a crashed front, and I never intended to put the AC back on so I skipped this for a while, but last time I was really dying at the track waiting on the grid. At the time I also did not have side windows .... While driving the NACA duct worked really well, but the grid was torture, and now that I have my electric windows back in the car. I decided to put the AC back on

I found out that the knee bar allowed for the AC unit to get back on so I was curious to see if I could get some cooling back in the car.



I already had most parts laying around in storage, but I had to buy a couple more parts like used compressor and new AC condenser/'radiator'. I found, on eBay, a cheap used compressor ($200) and a cheap brand new ($99) AC radiator.

To keep cost low I decided charge the AC system myself. I found all parts at my local advanced auto parts: AC gauges ($50), R134a gas can ($50), Gas can to AC gauge adapter ($15). I bought the vacuum pump from harbor freight ($20).

If you are like me with zero experience in HVAC, I found a great video detailing exactly what to do:

The brake ducts are squeezing in very tightly, now I understand why the TMG german team created some different brake ducts. If you keep your windshield washer and AC, there is no way you can fit the brake ducts.



For info, my system was completely and by adding 395g (full can) of gas 134a, I was up and running cold as ice.
If you need to trouble shoot the HVAC gauges, Follow the instruction in the BRZ workshop manual they have all sorts of scenarios in there to help you figure out where the problem could be. Lucky for me it worked right away. My low pressure was reading just as the manual says, between 20 to 31 psi.

Now I need to create a top box for the interior radiator, to avoid creating too much condensation behind the dash, but at low speed I think I'll be allright in the meantime.

I "only' have to follow the template of the top box (white thingy on the top left side) and make 2 outlets for brake duct there and I should be golden

[philooo]

Small bit that may help:

Amazon: zip tie fitting into the OEM oval holes located onto the chassis interior and dash bar to secure the wiring harness
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LGKHZ88?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailp age_o02_s02"]Amazon.com: 172mm x 8.6mm Black Nylon Dome Push Mount Wire Cable Zip Ties 20 Pcs: Automotive[/ame]


Amazon: Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up for the D29 optional connector.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQJ8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailp age_o00_s00"]Amazon.com: Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker: Car Electronics[/ame]


Amazon: NACA DUCT
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006K8K9L6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailp age_o06_s00"]Amazon.com: Allstar ALL42143 Clear Single Hole Plastic Brake Cooling Duct: Automotive[/ame]

[philooo]

Track Day Seven: Homestead 09.12.15 with PDG

New Stuff:

ELECTRICAL
Happy to report that all my surgery on the wiring harness worked out. No electrical problem and everything works as it should, including traction control, AC and electric windows. Even the remote key fob and trunk release work. Good news
The interior plastics are also back on, the glovebox even has a functional cigar lighter plug !



BRAKES



New front brakes carbotech xp12 installed. First session was scary because the brakes were giving me a shaky feeling on the steering, I wanted to bed the pads really carefully, considering the reason for the switch was that my previous set of CL 6E did not perform well and left uneven wear on the rotors, an dI wondered if it was because I tried to bed them in too fast with hard stop and go (like it says on the box. Based on @CSG garage advices, I decided retire the CL 6E for now and match the front pads with the rear pads (XP12).
After a few laps crying over my shaky steering, mid-session I decided to press harder on the brakes. After a few harder stops, 10 times at 50% pressure, the shaky feedback stopped. I went on a little more then I went for a few cooling laps. Next session the XP12 started were very noisy with a heavy/scary rubbing noise but after a few minute in my second session it felt smooth. The rest of the day was fine too. Still I think I need to learn more on the bedding thingy...

XP12 definlty provide tons of power, more than what my stomach can take after lunch

The ABS still kicks in during transition braking from turn to turn, so may be the rear differential is causing the ABS to kick in.

HVAC
The AC is back on the car and the addition of the AC condenser did not seem to have any impact on cooling. The AC is great on the grid and to get ready, but on the track, I still need to add a coolsuit, it was super hot and I was sweating like a pig all day.

I missed greatly my NACA duct that was located instead of my triangle window, that stuff worked great on the track. I need to figure how to retrofit one on my new setup. I see many miata replace the triangular windows with lexan and a NACA duct, I'll work on that later.

WINDOWS
I added back the side windows and electric mirror are now functional as well. The location of the window buttons, inside the door, where the speakers were, is ok but not ideal. Once strapped in the car on the grid, enjoying AC. I have to loosen my top belt to be able to open the door slightly and press the buttons. I can quickly tighten my belt back on fairly quickly so I think I am ok for now, but would be nice to have the window buttons accessible once strapped in. Center console somewhere. May be if I look hard enough to the wiring schematics I can find a wire to use to bring both windows up and down.

WEIGHT
The car is certainly 300 lbs heavier now with the full door and the AC. It felt a little heavier but nothing dramatic.


Other stuff:

COOLING
oil coolant and temperature where stable. Harrys lap time latest update did bring up the oil temprature via my bluetooth OBDII (GoPoiunt Bt1). I was waiting for it for a long time, it seems the new updates did it.

TIRES
The car performed flawlessly all day, only had a flat tire mid day, luckily I switch from me 245 BFG R1 to my 225 ADV08 and I could barely see the difference. Actually I made the same times I think. Certainly because I did not take 100% on the faster turns 1 and 10. I wanted the session to be about testing the car, so I kept it easy. Best time of the day 1.51 on the road course.

HOOD PINS (lack of)
My hood popped open, I certainly did not close it properly before leaving, the safety mechanism kept it close, but that reminds me that I need to add manual 'aviation hood pins'. Would have sucked to crack my windshield and damaeg the hood. It popped open around 65mph or so. I pitted in to close it and did not re-occur later.

GAS FILLUP
I manage to fill my gas tank with the fuel jugs without a spill, first time... For me the trick is to watch the transparent hose and look at the flow while not lifting the jug too fast. it seems once the flow is maxed out, if you tilt the jug more, then the air vent get 'clogged' and it back flows. Make sure you see the bubles flow from the jug to the car and not the other way around

HARRY'S LAP TIMER
I used harrys lap timer, with my vbox sport and got great data but video overlay with the gopro sucks and could not do it right. I wanted to use the gopro as main camera, but the file size are huge and it is a mess to figure which video correspond to which lap.

I tried the software RaceRender for the first time and it is a really nice system, mac compatible , to create overlay video. But still the problem of finding which data correspond to which video is impossible to solve. See below, after an hour trying I gave up and overlaid some data over the video but they evidently do not match.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWuufvAY7v8"]BRZ at Homestead on Sept 12 2015 - DATA FAIL - YouTube[/ame]

I need to get myself a smartycam and an Aim MXL to collect more data.

REAR VIEW MIRROR
I removed my long acre rear view mirror and now back using the stock rear view mirror, it is much better. the longacre was too distorting and I kept on missing people behind me. I need to sell that thing.

SUSPENSIONS
I need higher ride height and also more compression. on turn 10 I bottomed out a couple of time, when I gave too much steering input, with smoother steeering transition it did not bottom out. Anyways at this time the ride is very comfy, I can make it a lto stiffer. I think I have 7 from full compression right now, need ot double check.

POWER
I am still full stock, except OFT flash for 93 octone. I pass NA miata easily in the straigh but a track e36 was faster in the straight (see video).

DRIVER BELTS
I need to modify the right driver lap seat belt anchor as the motion is a bit limited, twisting the mounting point would help or add a ring to it or something.

PEDAL DANCE
I almost forgot twice to do it, and once I forgot completly, and had to pit in to do it... really annoying.I thing the beatronic tool is in my future.

I think that's about it
The car is ready to roll for the next event, nothing needed. Only potential improvemetn with NACA duct, cool suit, and smarty cam.

[philooo]

I am contemplating selling the car...

I love the car and it's been a very easy car to work with, but this hobby is getting really time consuming and my work has been suffering from my obsession ...

I'm going to list the car next week, if anybody wants first pick , send me a PM.

[philooo]

Track day 8 - Homestead 10/11/15

This is the first track day where the car is really fully sorted. Nothing to change in term of suspension configuration, brakes are working perfectly, no vibrations, no electric gizmo problem. I even started the day with AD08 tires expecting rain, and when it came to it, late afternoon, I was ready for it

I have now put quite some time in the build and it is just where I want it to be.

I have posted 2 videos, one in dry, one in wet. I posted my best dry time so far at homestead with 1.49. For the wet it was my first time driving in the wet there with that car so we'll see

I had the car listed on eBay for sale but it seems most buyer are interested in a cheap build so I'll keep it there until I can find the right buyer. And winter time is the best time for me to go to the track

I am really happy with the 225x17 Yokohama and the brake system. Only thing I need is a @Beastronix setup because I forgot twice to do the pedal dance and had to do it on the grid or back in pit lane. Annoying.

My oil temp was around 253F and I would like to decrease it a bit to I will be changing the way my oil coller is mounted. Right now it is behind the Mishimoto mount which cover a good 30% of the surface.




I am on the fence to spend money on a Aim System with Smarty cam. The harrys lap time / go pro / Vbox setup works fine but I can't see my oil pressure and the video overlay is still a pain, even though I am getting pretty good at it

[philooo]

I took a bunch of photo this weekend so here you go: