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| BRZ First-Gen (2012+) — General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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#43 | |
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Banned
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In NZ and Japan, the RC spec cars have no air con. They have a pulley in its place. Garage88 in Australia brought a few and sell them. Could also get through toyota Nz. I'll get you a part number, heck I might even get you a price. |
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#44 | |
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Weight Nazi
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Quote:
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#45 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
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#46 |
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When In Doubt...
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Agreed. My 91 MR2 weighed about the same as my BRZ. That thing was a properly dangerous two seater with a single airbag for the driver. I can't believe they pulled this weight off for a modern car without it costing more than it does. 200hp is not much for the price but 2700 pounds is, as you said, incredible, for this price tag.
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#47 |
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Senior Member
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Get AAA and throw out the spare tire and jack. Find some nice 14-16lb wheels and replace the stock 20lb wheels. Get a lighter battery.
That's all I would do. When you start messing with body panels, the weight savings are likely to be offset by poor build quality and fitment. Not to mention you'll risk looking like THAT 18yo kid with the Krylon Black civic with body panels flapping in the wind on the freeway. :-) But that's just my opinion. New modified cars can look BEAUTIFUL if done right. I don't have the money or the talent to do it right, so I'm sticking to small mods. :-) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to NWFRS For This Useful Post: | Laika (10-27-2013) |
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#48 | |
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Senior Member
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And if you're thinking "I'll just move the battery to the rear of the vehicle", you'll be adding weight do the the weight of the cables. Loosing weight strategically is a like solving a puzzle.
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#49 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
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if you lose 20-25 lbs off the front with a lighter battery and then remove the spare tire and jack for 25-30 lbs off the back, the weight distribution doesn't hardly change
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Miniata For This Useful Post: | SirBrass (12-05-2013) |
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#50 |
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Add lightness!
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It's pretty easy to lose weight off the front too. Headers (~12), wheels/tires, (~10), brakes (~20), battery (~20), flywheel/clutch (~12) and an empty windshield wiper tank (~5). That's around 80 pounds off the front(ish). Get's a little tricky after that. Some of that weight is low or rear of the axle though so it doesn't exactly count as front or as significant in the dynamics of it all. The rear seat is in front of the axle though and that weighs a fair chunk with all it's mounting hardware.
I think you could remove a well balanced 150 pounds from the car easily. |
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#51 |
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Anorexic
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#52 |
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Anorexic
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#53 |
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Weight Nazi
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Indirectly from diss7:
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Anthony For This Useful Post: | diss7 (12-08-2013), PoorMansRacing (12-05-2013) |
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#54 |
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Senior Member
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I'd just like to comment that you really don't need new brakes or pads after you make the car 50kg's lighter, not at least until you get much better grip with wider race tires. The brakes as they are now can easily hit the ABS in ideal dry conditions which is the absolute limit on braking capability for the entire car as a system. If you lose 50 kg's you're making the car easier to stop on the stock brakes. I'd suggest wheels and tires first and then a track day to properly heat them up and then test the ABS... or if you're a better driver than 90% of us forum goer's, pull the ABS fuse and try and lock them up. With good tires, and a light weight car, it's actually harder than you think.
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#55 |
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Undisputed El Presidente
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You want weight loss crazy, Miata guys are them. Hell, check out a miata autox forum and see how creative those guys get. Its insane.
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#56 | |
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Trust me, I'm the Doctor
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There's not much I'd do for weight reduction, though. 53/47 is actually a darn fine balance. Low CoG is actually even more important, I'd say.
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| weightloss, you're all too fat! |
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