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| BRZ First-Gen (2012+) General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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#43 | |
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Plus if he's sponsored by GReddy and GReddy is going to make a BBK I'd make him say that too lolI run longer session times than most here in a car with 10.2" single piston front brakes (and even smaller rear brakes) so I'm hard to convince on a "need" for very large brakes.
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#44 | |
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-Dave
Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#45 |
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Registered you sir
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I think enthusiasts would be fairly content with these as an OEM upgrade:
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#46 |
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Ken Gushi needs more brakes for his application which is for show, not for speed.
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#47 | |
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However, because of the weight of the car, pads and fluid would be enough to allow the car to last 20 - 30 minutes on the track I'd guess at stock power levels. It is when you add sticky tires, and more power that you will most likely need to up-grade beyond that. |
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#48 | |
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1. We dont know how much power his 2012 FD drift car is putting down. A good rule of thumb is, more power = more brakes. 2. Seeing as how tires provide a portion of the braking, and the car he test drove was most likely running on the eco tires, it could result in the idea that the cars braking capabilities are not enough for motorsports. 3. For FD competition or any other pro drift competition, the driving style of the driver, ken Gushi, could affect the cars performance and affect the competition results. He could use the stock brakes to its limit. I remember tracking my 300zx once and Stock blanks and good pads good tires were providing enough braking performance to get me around the track fast and safely. But when i tried my first drift event and autoX that same car and same brake setup i found myself experience brake fade, and going through several pads. So most likely for this particular motorsport Ken Gushi would require big brakes with longer endurance if hes in it to win the 2012 season.
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#49 |
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To clarify my comments: he does need bigger brakes for drifting... which is more about showmanship rather than lap times. For circuit racing, I don't believe the FR-S/BRZ will require much beyond what it already has.
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#50 |
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Kuruma Otaku
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Drifting seems to have cooling issues though, (airflow doesn't get to components when cars are sideways?) so that may mean they need a bit more capability in their brakes, if even for their short runs.
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#51 | |
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I drive for 2 hour sessions with 10.2" front brakes in race conditions with stock rubber lines and just good pads and fluid. I had those same brakes in my other faster integra before I returned it to stock and ran hour plus sessions on r comps without any brake issues. My experience with smaller lighter cars with 200+hp and smaller than BRZ brakes is why I doubt there will be any actual need to upgrade until you start pushing much more serious power levels. I wouldn't be surprised if the sticky tires actually help though. You can brake much deeper, and for less time (time on the brakes = HEAT), than with tires that you can't use as much brake with.
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#52 | |
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Generally if the brakes make it through the first 15-20 minutes of lap time they'll continue to make it through the next hour or two or 8 until they are on the backing plates just as well. My brake temps tend to be about the same after a 15 minute session as they are after an hour session and the race car with less weight shows less temp after two hours. We are pushing more power after the rebuild now though so we'll measure brake temps in march during a 24 hour race at PBIR. I'll be happy to provide the info here.
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#53 |
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I have zero experience with drifting but I'd suspect the reason is more related to them wanting more brake leverage/force/bias up front to lighten up the rear (under braking) for easier drifting, but that's a complete guess. I really can't see them building up any heat at least in the limited number of drifting events I've seen.
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#54 | |
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#55 | |||
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For Rotors you can use rotor temp paint in varying temps to measure which temp you have passed, and which you haven't. It's not accurate since it's a 150-200 degrees or so between paint colors, but at least you'll know that you (for example) have exceeded 1000F but not 1250F, so you can pick brake pads in the 1200F range. For Calipers you can use the stickers, which remember the max temp, that will also help determine if you are going past the point where the brake fluid will vaporize (and/or how close you are to that point) so you know if you need to add cooling. Both of those measure it at it's worse. If you measure it quickly on pit lane it will be cooled down, but not all that much so you'll still have an idea (example, if you see 1100F rotor temps by the time you stop on pit lane obviously you wouldn't want to be using pads with a max operating temp of 1000F). Quote:
They might, but as stated in here, there are some options for the fronts at least (and the rears likely have large enough rotors but may need more agressive pads if you upgrade the front) for very cheap. Quote:
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#56 |
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I'll upload and post some interesting pictures of well abused pads I've had recently tomorrow
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-Dave
Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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