Camber Bolt Help Please!

[tonystewart]

Originally Posted by getbent

Do you already have lowering springs? Is it possible to just use the OEM crash bolts or whiteline camber bolts to bring a moderately (1 inch or less) lowered car back into proper camber specification?

I'm buying the Racecomp Engineering Yellows and am wondering the same thing?

[JoeBoxer]

OEM camber bolts should be fine, i'm waiting on mine to come in now so i can put my springs on.

[jamal]

Just to make something clear, the bolts aren't to bring the alignment back into spec with springs. The front camber will be fine without them if you're looking for oem numbers.

The bolts are to take it out of spec in the more negative direction to improve handling.

[gmookher]

Originally Posted by JoeBoxer

OEM camber bolts should be fine, i'm waiting on mine to come in now so i can put my springs on.

what p/n did you order? I'd like to see a pic of bolts before you install

[JoeBoxer]

Originally Posted by gmookher

what p/n did you order? I'd like to see a pic of bolts before you install

SU003-02818
Still waiting on them to come in though.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by jamal

Just to make something clear, the bolts aren't to bring the alignment back into spec with springs. The front camber will be fine without them if you're looking for oem numbers.

The bolts are to take it out of spec in the more negative direction to improve handling.

Right on. You won't have camber spec issues up front without the bolts, however, in my opinion "in spec" is very weak for this car. You can safely go a little farther and make an improvement in handling without increasing tire wear.

- Andrew

[tonystewart]

What is the camber in the rear with just the springs?

[SLICVIC]

Originally Posted by ultra

Also wondering if a combo of OEM crash bolts in the top strut mounting holes PLUS Whiteline camber bolts in the lower holes might be a viable solution for even more negative camber.

my friend has stacked bolts in the rear of his GD wagon. Im planning to go this route plus using camber plates to see what maximum camber we can get. Ill make some markings and see how it goes . These fenders on the BRZ are looking alot smaller than i thought

[jamal]

If you're looking for a lot of negative camber without plates don't bother buying new bolts and just slot the holes in the strut. You can get all the adjustment you want (well, until the tire hits the strut/spring), and maintain the stock clamping load. It only takes widening the hole a couple mm to get a lot more camber, and if you wanted you could stick washers in and tack weld them to the struts when things are in the right spot.

Slotting or installing the OEM crash bolts is the strongest and safest way to go. One set of aftermarket bolts is fine and they don't usually slip when installed correctly and set to max negative. Two sets of aftermarket bolts might be pushing it.

[jamal]

Originally Posted by Flickr

well u know a lot of their hanging parts on my X and I can bowman you from my ogdoad ears of undergo with my Evo's that Whiteline makes top rating - pinched dimension products and you testament not get a dud.... me too would go with the white-line kit

what?

[SLICVIC]

Originally Posted by jamal

what?

LMAO.

Originally Posted by jamal

If you're looking for a lot of negative camber without plates don't bother buying new bolts and just slot the holes in the strut. You can get all the adjustment you want (well, until the tire hits the strut/spring), and maintain the stock clamping load. It only takes widening the hole a couple mm to get a lot more camber, and if you wanted you could stick washers in and tack weld them to the struts when things are in the right spot.

tack welding the washers is actually a really good idea. any idea what to use for slotting strut holes? dremel?


someone needs to make a Camber FAQ thread that goes over everything from front camber to rear camber. camber plates, camber Bolts, control arms, toe arms, camber bushings all that jazz

[Miniata]

Originally Posted by SLICVIC

any idea what to use for slotting strut holes? dremel?

I've slotted struts on a couple of different cars, I always use an air powered die grinder. A dremel is really inadequate for the task.

[jamal]

Originally Posted by Miniata

I've slotted struts on a couple of different cars, I always use an air powered die grinder. A dremel is really inadequate for the task.

Yeah, die grinder would be my choice. It helps to take a sharpie and mark what you want to take off beforehand. I didn't bother with the washers and they've never slipped. With a bolted connection you are depending on the friction from the flanges and not shear strength of the bolt anyway.

I was waiting for RCE or someone to do the camber adjustment faq but I guess I could work on something.

[SLICVIC]

Originally Posted by jamal

I could work on something.

sounds good

sold my coils from my old car today so new BCs coming soon . As far as millimeters, how big would the slots have to be for lets say 1 degree of camber? Dont want to grind away too much