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| BRZ First-Gen (2012+) — General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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#43 |
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The only reasons I would take the 2017 over the current BRZs:
1. If you reaaaally like the new headlights. OEM head lights are currently like $1.2k for the pair, so replacing the current BRZ headlights with that yourself isnt really cost effective. 2. Dash cluster and steering wheel controls. These would probably be a pain to wire yourself, or just impossible. 3. New spoiler. Unless the mounting holes match the <MY2016 spoiler, this would be costly to do since you need to fill the holes and repaint. 4. Front bumper. You basically need to go with the new headlights unless you want to lose DRLs entirely. Everything else (suspension, interior trim, etc) are easily replaced with aftermarket. |
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#44 |
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The MY17 update is great if you are looking for a brand new clean ride to drive round for a while and not modify.
That said there is plenty to like about the MY16 BRZ too. I for one love the DRL's on the lower bar and also prefer its headlights over the MY17's. To me they look less fussy and cleaner as they are separate from each. I also like the general styling and look of the front bar with fog lights etc. I'm also a fan of the clean steering wheel ie free of buttons. Otherwise the interior is the same. You also need to consider that you will likely land a terrific deal on run out MY16's and, with just a hand full of mods, I honestly think it will blow the MY17 out of the water. For instance why care about a minor FD ratio update when you can select a ratio that better fits your own needs? While you're at it throw in an aluminum drive shaft that is 50% lighter and improves the efficiency of your drive train? Likewise if you're looking at a new header and tune you will gain far better improvements than those found in the MY17's with more power and torque. Why care about a smaller torque dip when you can not only obliterate it from existence but also even go for lovely options like tuning for a classic WRX worble through UEL headers or a clean supercar banshee whale via EL headers? The way I see it, if you're smart with your money, you can easily end up with a kick ass package that better fits your needs and end up with a superior car to an MY17 by buying an MY16 and moding it. Why not list out the specs of an MY16 and MY17 side by side and do a little spread sheet comparison, but list better aftermarket options? Why settle for near enough is good enough, as dictated by the manufacturer, when you can cherry pick amazing superior options from so many amazing aftermarket specialists? The platform has been out so long that many after market companies are into 2nd and even third gen products like Tein with their Flex-Z suspension. I guess you need to take a pragmatic view of where you want the car to be in the next few years and how likely mods will be part of the equation in getting you there. If you end up swapping out many of the changes found in the MY17 update then you're wasting money, unless you just don't care
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MY15 CWP A/T BRZ | Leather heated seats | STI CAI filter, A/T leather shifter, strut brace, V-brace, draw stiffener, battery tie down, Radiator cap, Oil cap, push start button | TRD door stabilizer | YoSpeed STI console garnish | Pioneer AVIC-F70DAB + Rev-camera, TS-WX710A sub | JL speakers, Amp | TOMS' Clear Brake Lights | Cusco 4.556 FD | Driveshaft Shop aluminum shaft | Tein FlexZ, EDFC AP+GPS | Crawford BPB
![]() Last edited by Mim; 05-28-2016 at 11:38 AM. Reason: Spelling mistakes >.<" |
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#45 | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to TheWatersBoy For This Useful Post: | nikitopo (05-28-2016) |
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#46 | |
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I love the car, both the 2016 and the 2017. There are certain things I like about one over another. I like the cluster of the 2017. But I like the steering wheel of the 2016. I've already started planning out what I want to do once I get the car. I know I should leave the car stock for a while to learn how it feels, but the mods that I'm talking about are mainly visual. The only performance mod I was looking at was headers, an exhaust, and tune for two reasons: 1) The amount of power that is squeezed out when you do this is fantastic, and 2) I love the subie rumble, so I'm looking to get UEL headers to bring that rumble to the car. Like I mentioned, I should be able to get a good deal on either of them, so I just wanted to know some of the community's opinions on if they were similarly priced. Plus, it would suck to get the 2017 and throw all those exhaust components at it and have it be a waste of money, though that's unlikely to be the case. |
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#47 | |
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I've gotta say, nice breaks make a world of difference. I'd get them. On my car the difference between the stock 4 Pistons and the 6 piston brembos is night and day. Every other car now feels mushy and slow to stop now haha. The performance or track pack brz looks like it will be really awesome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#48 |
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Price being equal I'd say going for the MY17 is a no brainer. Even if you like a feature of an earlier model I imagine it will be far easier (and cheaper) simply buying an MY17 than trying to mod an older model to include some of the features of an MY17.
We have already seen discussions to this effect in the main MY17 BRZ thread where it was viewed to likely be impossible to retain all the functionality of the new speedo cluster, funky new LCD panel and its new features etc.. and make it work in an earlier model. Even if it were possible it wouldn't make much financial sense to bother as its far more than a simple cluster swap.
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MY15 CWP A/T BRZ | Leather heated seats | STI CAI filter, A/T leather shifter, strut brace, V-brace, draw stiffener, battery tie down, Radiator cap, Oil cap, push start button | TRD door stabilizer | YoSpeed STI console garnish | Pioneer AVIC-F70DAB + Rev-camera, TS-WX710A sub | JL speakers, Amp | TOMS' Clear Brake Lights | Cusco 4.556 FD | Driveshaft Shop aluminum shaft | Tein FlexZ, EDFC AP+GPS | Crawford BPB
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#49 | |
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Will be interesting to see what little else you'd need bar better brake fluid and an oil cooler now.
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MY15 CWP A/T BRZ | Leather heated seats | STI CAI filter, A/T leather shifter, strut brace, V-brace, draw stiffener, battery tie down, Radiator cap, Oil cap, push start button | TRD door stabilizer | YoSpeed STI console garnish | Pioneer AVIC-F70DAB + Rev-camera, TS-WX710A sub | JL speakers, Amp | TOMS' Clear Brake Lights | Cusco 4.556 FD | Driveshaft Shop aluminum shaft | Tein FlexZ, EDFC AP+GPS | Crawford BPB
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#50 |
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Couldn't agree more! Breaks are even better when they're paid!
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#51 |
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BTW Just spoke with a friend of mine that works at a Subaru dealership, and he told me that they have yet to open up the building of the car which prevents them from being able to take an order/deposit.
Don't know if it's just a regional thing or what, but I wanted to throw this out there. Sent from my SM-N915T using Tapatalk |
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#52 |
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#53 |
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I read somewhere the MY17 has new valves, cams, and cylinder heads. If true could the motor possibly handle a little more abuse if you were to go FI on stock internals?
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#54 | |
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"The BRZ 2.0-liter SUBARU BOXER engine receives several internal updates for friction reduction including new valves, camshaft and cylinder heads. Accompanied with a new aluminum intake manifold and redesigned exhaust manifold for increased air flow, the engine output in models with the 6-speed manual transmission is increased to 205-hp and 156 lb-ft of torque." http://media.subaru.com/newsrelease....s&id=956&mid=1
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#55 | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to raven1231 For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (05-31-2016) |
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#56 |
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All those changes could mean good news for those hoping for a modified engine/exhaust note though.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Sport-Tech For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (05-31-2016) |
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