11-23-2021, 02:42 PM | #435 | |
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11-23-2021, 08:27 PM | #436 | |
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So I was looking into wiring a flex fuel sensor into the Haltech using the harness provided. Since you'd have to trace the jumper board pin out to see what's what I decided to drop Kpower a line in hopes to skip all that.
This is what they said Quote:
So looks like all I need to source at this point is a male 8 pin connector which is basically the same as the BRZ headlight connector. I've already purchased the fittings, fuel line, sensor, and pigtail. Still deciding what injectors to go with but will get those soon enough. |
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11-23-2021, 10:45 PM | #437 |
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If a $2 bolt fixes the issue then that’s a win for everyone. I don’t know about you, but I sure as hell don’t feel like pulling the engine out and replacing the pan. If the bolt doesn’t fix the issue and they want to send me a new pan, I still won’t be pulling the engine right now to replace it. I’m ready to drive my car, I can worry about how to get the oil out later on.
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11-23-2021, 10:51 PM | #438 |
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Talked with Kpower today and they are going to try a bunch of different starters to find out what doesn’t fit. They were able to find one other k20 starter so far that doesn’t fit for them so they plan on enlarging the opening on future adapter plates.
I installed my IRP shifter today, 5th/6th gear are a bit tougher than normal to get in. I believe if your using the stock shifter and Kpower shifter plate it moves the pickup point down about an inch. So I’m guessing the IRP shifter being in the oem location is putting a slight bind on the shifter rod. I have an Invidia N2 catback on the car. The large resonator on it nearly touches the driveshaft. Might be about 3/8” Clearance. This can be solved by deleting the resonator. I’ll probably just end up selling the catback if it does make contact and then I can just make my own 3” setup. |
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11-24-2021, 12:44 AM | #439 | |
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11-24-2021, 12:49 AM | #440 |
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I have a Haltech flex fuel sensor and EBC that needs wiring. It is good to hear they made provisions for the flex fuel. I wonder if they made any others. If you have a link to buy stuff, please post it. The problem I have is there is practically zero tutorials online for this type of thing. What is worse, there are a million different harness and pin standards. I don’t know if Haltech sells more pins or what. I wonder when Kpower will release the flex fuel setup. Probably not for a while.
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11-24-2021, 12:51 AM | #441 | |
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11-24-2021, 12:58 AM | #442 |
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Does the drain bolt line up with the oil change access hole in the skid plate?
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11-24-2021, 01:01 AM | #443 |
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11-24-2021, 08:43 AM | #444 | ||
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Quote:
They didn't mention any other options but I did see there is one pin on the jumper harness open for the Haltech DPO1 pin 18 on the 34 pin connector, which can be used for a boost control solenoid. Unfortunately without knowing what they pinned it's hard to say if it's already there just laying dormant. I "think" when you connect to the 1500 via their software you can see what is active? To me it sounds like they pre-planned future upgrades for expansion packs. Pure speculation, but the flex fuel situation kinda points that direction. Almost forgot, I also asked if the ETA on steel flywheels has changed any. David said: Quote:
Wahoooo!!!! |
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11-24-2021, 08:57 AM | #445 |
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This is the IO report for the 1500 on their base map. I also have a pinout of their harness I figured out on my own but I cannot disclose that per their request.
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11-24-2021, 09:14 AM | #446 |
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So looks like the only DPO spot left is A18 and it's not pre-pinned on the jumper. So for a boost control solenoid it will need to be pinned directly to the Haltech.
I need to connect my Haltech back up and take a poke around. I've been wavering on how I want to mount it and the wideband. Above the glovebox like Ebush did is so much tighter than expected so I'm probably abandoning that idea. |
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11-24-2021, 01:26 PM | #447 |
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I received the new drain bolt from kpower a little bit ago and was able to install it pretty easily. Just had to loosen all mounts and put a bottle jack between the driver frame rail and engine mount to push the engine towards the passenger side. Once the new bolt was installed I removed the bottle jack and tightened the mounts back down where they were previously, the bolt is accessible and able to come all the way out. I posted a video on my Instagram @ ebush86 showing the new bolt and accessibility.
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11-24-2021, 03:27 PM | #448 |
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Just got tracking for the steel flywheel so others should be getting similar as well.
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