BRZ Ratios and Speeds

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by amaciose

Thank you for all the quick replies so far! This is exactly what I was looking for!



I'm hoping to get to this point soon. I've already stalled quite a few times and had a few unsuccessful downshifts (very jerky), so right now I'm just trying to minimize the damage to my car during my learning period Hopefully soon I'll be able to do all this by feel.

Part of it is the stock clutch pedal height at rest and the release point on the pedal throw. Find the DIY on adjusting the clutch pedal height and thus the release point in the throw (the hydraulics will still move the disc the same distance, but it will be over a shorter pedal throw distance) to something comfortable but workable.

You'll find you start stalling less when you get used to it, and also get less "jerks" b/c you can more easily sync your clutch-out and throttle-on foot movements to coincide and apply the correct amount of throttle to keep the rpms in the range to not jerk when you hit the release point.

Originally Posted by BRZ-OwnzJo0

I don't rev-match because I don't think it's necessary when downshifting to slow down. I use the combination of brakes + downshifting to come to a stop gradually and it keeps the RPMs in control (not jerky at all ). I know you're probably a fine driver, just like me. :P

Oh it's necessary. I didn't rev-match for years either, but I had to slow down first before downshifting so I wouldn't get massive RPM spikes when I let off the clutch (it wears the clutch out faster than really necessary). I can slow down but keep in the power band by rev-matching on the downshift without jerking the frame or chirping the tires (you get no chirp in AWD, but a much bigger drive line shock, and it's not at all pleasant). I learned this driving AWD manual. It's easier in RWD, as some of that shock force can be transmitted through the tires as wheel spin. Still, it's not good for parts and shouldn't be done as part of your daily driving routine (track is a different story and emergency situations are another entirely too). Rev-matching should be. It makes it so you can downshift quicker without using only your brakes, induces less wear on the clutch by doing so, and keeps your engine speed up in the power band in case the light turns green so you can then just transition to just throttle on and keep going without trying to get your power back.

That, and it's more fun.

[kuhlka]

What I've learned from driving a variety of manuals from a crappy four banger Mustang, full-on Cobra, STI, etc.

-Skipping gears and keeping revs low while shifting makes things really smooth. I regularly go 1-3-5-6 in the STI.

-Slower clutch slip (releasing the clutch slowly) brings smoother shifts, but increases clutch wear. This is the newbie's solution to jerky shifts, generally.

-Learning where the engagement point on the clutch is, and adjusting the clutch pedal to a comfortable distance is KEY to smooth reliable shifts. If you do it right, you can bump the pedal and click through the gears with no slop or jerk.

-Learning the sound of your engine at various RPMs helps both on the track and putting around town. Figure out the point where your engine starts to bog (noisy, no power to pull away) and you can downshift very smoothly from just above there. Also note, you don't HAVE to downshift when approaching a stop.

-Taking off in 2nd is much smoother, but can cause more clutch wear.

-A lightweight flywheel makes a noticeable difference in how quickly the car revs up when shifting and made no change to the reliability of my STI.