Frs stock Header (Jig)

[sroby]

I finished up the frs de catted head pipe today. I re flashed with Shivs stage 2 (EL). It operates perfectly. This in combination with the Invidia overpipe is for just about spot on. I did pull the front bumper and do the snorkel tube mod per Chase at Grimmspeed. As a side note mine is a 2015 model I took my time and the bumper came off with out a hitch. I did replace the 2 push pins behind my side markers with 5/16 fender nut plates. The bumper went back on perfectly no side bulges or popping out of place as I have read about 2013 models. I took it out for an hour long trip in the north Ga mtns. My seat of the pants dyno is really a great improvement over my previous set up. It pulls like a mule strongly now from 3000 to 4000 then keeps building the linear power all the way to the redline. Since I went back with the stock exhaust shields the heat is no problem. I have zero rattles its nice and quiet just remarkable with the new improved midrange punch. I approached it just like I set up my old VFR 800 interceptor. Intake/power commander/ by Doebeck/ and cat delete with a Staintune exhust. This was a big midrange wake up on my old bike and seems to be just the perfect combo for my FRS. All together I have 110.00 in the total mod, this is including the biggest expense of the stock cat/headpipe from ebay. Thanks again to this forum for giving this idea and all the continued friendships and support. Best regards Steve

[sroby]

Thanks Ultra I appreciate it. Steve

[Ultramaroon]

You had me going for a minute until I see you started a new thread.

We can ask @ichitaka05 to merge them for you if you like.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111174

It's really cool that you got all the heat shield to fit. Minimalism.

[sroby]

Thanks Ultra- Me with a computer is dangerous (ha). Still in a big learning curve. Thx Steve

[Rameus]

Looks great sroby. I've been planning a similar project, so I'm happy to hear you've got it running and providing gains. I don't think I'll be able to get it done as cheap as you though!

I have a few questions about the construction of the tubing you (or your fabricator) used to replace the cat:

1. For the "collector" tube, what inner diameter tube did you use?

2. Did you achieve the "oval" end shape of the collector tube by simply squeezing the end of the tube to flatten it out a bit?

3. Did you have to do any work inside the collector tube to create a nice merge, like weld in a separating plate, or did you just clean up the merge that already existed in the upstream part of the manifold?

Oh, and how does it sound?

[JazzleSAURUS]

I had a great improvement by punching out the stock cat in some spare headers with the OFT stage 2 EL tune. I wish we could run our cars back to back on a dyno and see what the value of doing all that extra work is!!

[sroby]

Rameus, Jazz, thanks, My guy used a Y connector/Stainless that he gets from his vendors He told me the name of the collector and it escapes me at the moment. I want to say Vortex brand . I will see him on Monday and verify. He heated it up and has a real trick mandrel bender and was able to put the slight bend in it. Because I wanted to install all of the factory shields, he cut the factory mount end off of the stock cat about 2 inches left the tabs on for the shield. He then had to take about a 3 inch long piece of stainless tube weld the collector on to it and then the factory mount. With this it mounted up to my Invidia over pipe still utilizing the factory studs. He knife blade cut the inside of the collector to help smooth out the exhaust gases as it enters the last slight bend before the overpipe. I was asking him about just gutting the cat. He was telling me its been done all the time and works decent. Was he was explaining to me was that that large amount of exhaust entering into the now gutted cat body, will somewhat get bottled necked and cause those super heated exhaust gases and shockwaves to decrease backpressure slightly. Not to mention you get a lot more noise as the outer wall of the cat without the ceramic core is thinner and as I have done on my old dodge neon ACR its ringy type of a sound. When I was Solo 1 and autocrossing the Acr the noise would get on my nerves. I wound up doing the same thing putting in a test pipe and it just sounded a whole lot more smooth. Like I say my seat of the pants dyno tell me more power. It will be a couple of weeks before I have her on the dyno and will report back the findings. I can confirm that now with the complete set up I am running the dip that I felt between 3 and 4 thousand to me is totally gone. It seems to pull harder in 3- 4- 5 till redline. I have never ran it over a 100 mph yet as I just turned 3000 miles on the clock. Since I have it all finished for now I hope to do a track day November at Barbermotorsport or Road Atlanta. I would love to check out the new North Ga motorsport complex, but it way above my paygrade. Unless I could get an invite by one of the members. Even then I think it runs over 300.00 God I miss my Air Force days around the west coast where there were so many tracks to have fun and very inexpensive. Will report back soon Thx Steve

[sroby]

If anybody on the forum wants to use the jig I have made, You are more than welcome to use it. Just pay the shipping and I will send it to you. We can bounce it around, When you are finished just send it back or pass it onto the next member for their use. I don't know if that's breaking any forum rules somebody pls advise me if so. Keep in mind the intent would be for off road use only. Anyway just let me know, I have al the hardware and I will right down some directions on the way I mounted to the head pipe for proper fitment. With me utilizing the Invidia over pipe it mounted up exactly as the stock over pipe. Absolutely no exhaust leaks and nice and quiet no raspy header ping. You can really hear the intake now with the modded snorkel and the grimmspeed intake I am using. Its a good sound in that sense to me. Thx Steve

[Lantana frs]

That's a nice job. Im glad you had a tuning solution as well. Even expensive headers give minimal gains without calibration.

[sroby]

Lantana, Thx partner. Regards Steve

[Rameus]

Wow, thanks for all that info sroby.

If you do find out the name of the collector your fabricator used, please let me know.

Thanks for the general offer to lend your jig. A large part of the reason I am doing this project though, is to practice my own meager fabrication skills, so I'm intent on building my own

[JazzleSAURUS]

Was it a Vibrant collector?

The beauty of this is you can make it super cheap by flashing on the OFT maps via rom raider :O

[guybo]

I really want to dyno my car (gutted cats, not modified otherwise) vs. a car with gutted cats and a straight pipe welded in place vs. an expensive header. Same dyno, same day.

[sroby]

I have been driving it with the mod in place. Had 2 spirited driving days up Blood Mtn in North Ga. 250 miles plus each day. It is so seam less when tipping into a good turn, and picking back up the fuel there is virtually no flat spot anywhere in the power band anymore. It pulls and pulls with the oft on stage 2. Anyway butt dyno says a whole lot stringer and better. Actual dyno for me is yet to be seen, hopefully I get can it done before thanksgiving. Thx again for the support it means a great deal to me. Regards Steve