DIY Alignment

[neurokinetik]

Originally Posted by FRSFirestorm

Really don't know how many I'll do. Obviously the first and I like the idea of tweaking it a bit and then checking it ever so often. I like doing things myself and I'm in the middle of Smallsville KY. Any good shop I find would likely be hours away and an all day event when you count travel. Its more about time than cost. Along with the satisfaction and assurance its done right by doing it myself. In the past alignments are one of the very few things I've had a "professional" perform on my vehicles. They weren't all pleasant experiences.

Not just this, but setting up a car properly may require several tweaks to the alignment to get it just right. Couple this with the fact that many shops won't do anything besides "factory specs" and you are better off learning to do it yourself. It's only a couple of measurements, and is not difficult to do at all if you are diligent about getting your measurements as exact as possible. If you are sloppy about your work, then by all means, pay somebody else to do it, and even then, choose wisely.

Better yet, do it yourself, then get it checked on an alignment rack to see how you did.

These cars, with their limited adjustment capability, are much easier to align than a Miata. I never tried to align my Miata myself, aside from a quick front toe adjustment, as I saw how difficult it was for the "pro" at the shop. The McSuspension up front means you can easily adjust the camber with predictable changes to the toe, for example, as all you need to do is get the camber even on both sides then check and adjust the toe via the tie-rod ends accordingly. On the Miata, adjusting the camber would also effect the toe and the caster, and it was much harder to get it all lined up.

Originally Posted by FRSFirestorm

Still not quite decided on what exactly I'm going to set up at but thinking about -1.5 camber front/rear and 0 toe. Subject to change. Car won't be tracked but I do plan on trying some AutoX out.

Remember that you won't have much say in what the rear camber is, because Toyota/Subaru wasn't smart enough to give us an adjustment for it from the factory, unlike most cars that are purported to be sports cars. You may want more camber in the front if you can get it.

[FRSFirestorm]

I've done a lot of web browsing on the subject of DIY alignments. I have a good understanding of how to go about it, along with the majority of the tools to do it. Just have a few more things to pick up and some warm weather to get the springs on and try it. The key is the setup and precision measurements.

Originally Posted by neurokinetik

Remember that you won't have much say in what the rear camber is, because Toyota/Subaru wasn't smart enough to give us an adjustment for it from the factory, unlike most cars that are purported to be sports cars. You may want more camber in the front if you can get it.

That's why I purchased these for the rear. I'm still open to what camber I throw at it, of course limited to the amount of adjustment I have.

SPC Rear Control arms.

[Not4off]

Last night I installed Subaru camber bolts and this morning took the car to the dealer for an alignment for $99.95. Seemed relatively inexpensive as my other car would have run $360.00. The result was 1.0 degree of negative camber which wasn't quite as much as I had hoped...still an improvement over stock.

Doubt the Whiteline bolts could offer any more at 4X the price. One of the car mags used the OEM camber bolts and reported a max negative camber of 1.2 so my results sound typical.

[FRSFirestorm]

Been a long while since updating this thread. Warmer weather and settled into the new crib I've got a chance to tinker a bit. The goal being to familiarize myself with the camber gauge and how to string a car. All before I install my new springs and attempt to align afterward.

First off the camber gauge. After several times going around each corner of the car and in different parking spots I get varied readings for camber of each wheel. If left in one spot I can repeat within .1 degree. Moving to a different location of the garage I get about a .5 degree variation.

With several readings and averaging them this is what I've come up with

LF = -.6 *camber
RF = +.2 *camber

LR = -1.9 *camber
RR = -1.4 *camber

Not within factory spec. The total difference on the front is just over .75 left/right difference.

I strung the left side of the car today. Very tedious and time consuming. I'll do this several times until I get consistent results. Using fishing line, digital calipers and a couple jack stands.

Came up with toe in on the drivers front of 2.9mm and rear of .4 mm. Within factory spec for single wheel toe but total toe front may be out. Don't know.

Here is a pic of the camber gauge on a wheel. Didn't get a picture of the string setup.

[FRSFirestorm]

Another update and an oddity that I don't understand.

Last weekend I installed the rear LCA's and front camber bolts. Along with applying all the tricks I've come accross, home slide plates, leveling the pads via a home water level etc. It was a very long day and I couldn't get the right rear toe in spec so I accepted what I got for measurements and ordered a set of adjustable rear toe arms... knowing I'd have to align again after I install them. Anyway I felt relatively confident in my first alingment efforts.

In preperation for this next go around I've decided to try a different approach for stringing the car. Better precision and easier setup. I've seen write ups doing it both ways. The way I strung the car last week was what I'll call independant string lines down each side of the car. Taking into account the difference in specs for track width. Per the specs I've found the rear track width is 1539mm the front 1519mm. So I put the string line at 90mm from center of rear axle and 100mm from center of front axle on both sides. (1539-1519)/2 = 10mm offset for the front to rear axle.

The difference for my alignment this weekend is to string it with the strings tied to a piece of conduit at each end of the car like a toe bar but not attached to the car. Sitting on jackstands. I have holes drilled exactly 1920mm on each piece of conduit.

Here is the oddity I don't understand. I mocked up the new setup last night. when I center the car to the new string line setup I don't see the 10mm offset I would expect due to the different track widths. I basically get the same equidistant all four corners.

This basically states that the track width is the same front and rear which is different than the published specs.

Any thoughts?

[celica73]

Are the rear LCA's the same length as stock? I wouldn't think you would need to reduce the rear track 1cm (each side) to get camber where you want, but I don't haven't measured either.

You aren't running spacers on the front wheels are you? (I've got to ask).

Idea...

Use the rear tow hook positions for eye bolts and thread your conduit through them. Engineer something similar up front. Now you can move the car, and not disturb the strings.

[FRSFirestorm]

Originally Posted by celica73

Are the rear LCA's the same length as stock? I wouldn't think you would need to reduce the rear track 1cm (each side) to get camber where you want, but I don't haven't measured either.

You aren't running spacers on the front wheels are you? (I've got to ask).

Idea...

Use the rear tow hook positions for eye bolts and thread your conduit through them. Engineer something similar up front. Now you can move the car, and not disturb the strings.

They are adjustable LCA's so the length is different to achieve the desired camber setting. I adjusted/offset 1cm in my original string of the car not to play with camber but the logic was to parallel the string to the car as it should be. This is done at the center of the wheel/hub so any camber or toe in the car shouldn't affect this number.

No spacers. Same wheel on all four corners.

Yeah, I've thought about fabbing something up with the toe hook locations to hold the conduit. Wish there were two of them.

[whataboutbob]

Interesting thread. I'm considering purchasing some tools to do it myself too. Thanks everyone for your posts.

[FRSFirestorm]

UPS guy delivered the rear toe arms yesterday. I got them installed last night and most of the alignment setup done. Got up this morning and aligned it again. It went much smoother this go around.

Over the next couple days I'm going to do a DIY alignment in the DIY section.

There were notable differences in the alignment from my last with the conduit string method. I couldn't compare the rear since I'd installed the toe arms but the front toe was much different.

I'm also planning on taking the car to TIC. They are fairly local to me. Still undecided but at minimum an alignment check/adjust. Thinking about going ahead and have them install a set of Koni's.

[Kwaziekeller]

I have some Hotchkis springs (25mm/1" drop), SPC rear control arms and front camber bolts on the way (will be here Monday).

For my DIY alignment (until I get to an alignment shop), I am using 2 techniques, the string box (for toe) and a homemade camber tool. My total cost was around $45. I'll take pics once I install the parts and start setting the suspension to my settings for anyone who doesn't know how a string box works.

I bought 2, 10' long sections of 3/4" PVC (less flex than 1/2" PVC) tubing, cost $4 something each.
I purchased a Craftsman digital level (accurate to .1deg) for $30.
I also bought a small spool of fishing line, chose 10lb test because I wanted something slightly thick, cost $5.

Using a good old hacksaw and measuring tape, I cut the PVC down to 80". I chose this length by measuring out from the "eyeballed" centerline of the vehicle and allowing about 4-6" of extra length, then doubled it. After cutting i measured and marked the centerline of the PVC, from both ends to ensure it was indeed 80" (the center of 80" is of course 40"). Then I measured in from the sides and cut partially into the tubing in 1/2" increments for 4" on each end. This will give guidelines and reference points for attaching/hanging the fishing line. Once I completed one, I cut the second section of 10" tubing down to exactly the same size and markings (if you use the first to make the second there will not be any difference in the length or markings, eliminating human error in measuring and making them identical.) I will use these gently taped to the vehicle with masking tape, to setup the string box for setting toe. It essentially replicates some of the DIY toe string box setups you can buy commercially. Once setup on the vehicle you measure in from the string at the front and back of each wheel individually (ideally at the centerline of the wheel) and that difference is your toe. For 0 toe, you'd want the measurement to be the same.

Having leftover PVC... I cut two sections of PVC down to fit from wheel lip to wheel lip of the wheels (18 3/4" for the stock wheels, and yes I know they are 17's, but go measure if you like). Once I had them cut, I taped them together on the ends with duct tape. Then I taped the digital scale to the PVC with masking tape. This will give you a way to measure camber quickly.

The hardest part is finding a flat workplace, but if you're really gung ho about DIY, there are ways to make a level surface, and to make slide plates as well. I don't want it 100% accurate, as I will get it aligned eventually, but I want it somewhat close, and a way to check it over time.

I know that the string box method and a digital level are not as accurate as a professional alignment rack. This allows you to make quick changes and be somewhat accurate, or in my case... get it "close enough" until you can get to an alignment shop. If you are very precise and meticulous about it, then this will give you an alignment within the tolerances of deviation.

I'm planning to run the following alignment specs. Its a DD and rarely tracked so I'm trying to balance a little more handling (and more precise than the OEM settings, which can vary wildly from side to side) and good tire wear/treadlife.

Front: -1* camber and 0 toe.
Rear: -1.5 camber and .1 toe on each wheel, .2 total toe (toe in)

[Kwaziekeller]

Essentially how a string box is setup, but by taping the lightweight PVC to the car, it's affixed so if you raise or lower your car to adjust it then you don't have to setup the string box again... taping may not work the best but I'll report back once I've done it...



Smart string alignment system (attaches to car like I intend to do with tape)

[SprayedBigCube]

You guys are an inspiration, many thanks for posting real-world results.

Bought equipment FRSFirestorm went with as I had been looking for a few months after doing the rear toe on my SS with just blocks of wood, car dollies, and a measuring tape. Car went from tail happy to planted with just that simple poor man's alignment. Want to do the string thing eventually in order to get the individual wheels nailed down as I'm not convinced all 4 are where they should be after putting a new motor in (it and the entire front suspension are lifted into place so I imagine there may be a little bit of error in that). But regardless, the simple toe alignment I did brought it back to acting like normal.

On my FRS, I'd like to spend some quality time checking it's alignment next weekend, so could one of you guys post the OEM settings? For autocross on stock suspension, what changes would you make?