Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by Luckrider

The real question is, with a twisty track can the PhantomCharger sustain power for 20, 30, 40 minutes, maybe an hour? You would have probably 75% of your time of the track as recharge time.

There is no reason for the Phantom ESC not to sustain any prolonged period of use as long as you are able to provide the 8:1 (or 4:1 for the dual charger) charge:discharge ratio.

[clintavo]

Originally Posted by fenton

One thing that I do want all you new people to know is that you should NEVER arm the ecs when already full throttle. It would be extremely hard on the components.

Another quick reminder is that you can arm the system while the car is in vacuum however if you happen to be accelerating the drag reduction may get zero'd in wrong causing it to not work correctly. DR voltage drop should not happen while cruising at a steady speed.... If it is it may be set to low.

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

DR should be good for an entire lapping session, correct?

I was planning to use boost on the straights only (15-20 secs out of a 90 second lap). While in DR mode WOT, would it be possible to use a spring-loaded switch or pushbutton to activate boost?

[nlowell]

Originally Posted by Luckrider

The real question is, with a twisty track can the PhantomCharger sustain power for 20, 30, 40 minutes, maybe an hour? You would have probably 75% of your time of the track as recharge time.

To pile on this - I have an upcoming HPDE at California Speedway - road track configuration. While 1/2 of the time will be spent on the in-field, the other half is spent on the banked oval. 20 minute sessions. I'm hoping I will have sustained power with the ESC on the outside and will have enough partial throttle time on the inside for recharge. Thoughts?

Is it bad to run the battery down then keep asking for more? If the battery is below a certain amount will it go into a DR only mode?

Might be nice to have a way to switch between DR only and full. I could run a few laps in full then switch to DR only for a few laps to ensure a good recharge then go back full.

Maybe I'm off-base here but just thinking out loud...

[fenton]

Originally Posted by nlowell

To pile on this - I have an upcoming HPDE at California Speedway - road track configuration. While 1/2 of the time will be spent on the in-field, the other half is spent on the banked oval. 20 minute sessions. I'm hoping I will have sustained power with the ESC on the outside and will have enough partial throttle time on the inside for recharge. Thoughts?

Is it bad to run the battery down then keep asking for more? If the battery is below a certain amount will it go into a DR only mode?

Might be nice to have a way to switch between DR only and full. I could run a few laps in full then switch to DR only for a few laps to ensure a good recharge then go back full.

Maybe I'm off-base here but just thinking out loud...

I think that will be asking too much from the system but you won't know until you try.

DR mode is not free...the form of DR that is currently deployed will spin the compressor up to 100 percent if you are close to redline and actually adds about 20hp over stock. Yes it uses less than going flat out but on a track I suspect that you could still burn through it. Point I'm trying to make is that if you are on DR all the time you will not overcome the recharge rate of the batteries.

Auto x or something like that which is only a minute or so is going to be fine. If you are asking for 20 minutes of boost this system will not provide it in its current forum.

What you would be best to do in your case is disconnect the DR so it doesnt kick in so that you can use full WOT on the straights and recharge everywhere else.... Yes you will be down 10hp or so but good braking and smooth turns and transitions more than make up for the difference of 10hp... This is what thatruth did because he didnt have DR when on track.

That being said no one has tried it yet(with Dr) and it may be okay depending on your driving style. I just know that the current DR actually boosts performance significantly which is awesome for daily driving.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[fenton]

Originally Posted by normancw

Please post your impressions - especially if the application of boost at 80% throttle is easy to handle coming out of turns.

I can assure you that it is very smooth. I have a little less power in this video compared to those that will be running the OFT tune with 93 or e85 and this "turn" is in first gear.

You can see that my tires did let loose when i went WOT but it was very managable. Remember again that we arent adding 150ft/lbs of tq like some turbo's do. We are adding a nice 80 to 30 depending on where you are in the rpm band.

The turn is right at the start of the vid.

There is another turn at 3:00 that is full throttle in second gear and you can see that i fought it a little to keep it straight.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hs3s4lQ9a74"]FRS BRZ Electric Supercharger - Casual drive - YouTube[/ame]

[SloS14]

I just emailed Rob with the same question but thought I'd put this out there in case someone already knows the answer:

My ESC's pedal switch and digital readout both are wired in insulation. I'm ready to solder in a relay but don't know what to expect if/when I cut into this soft insulation. I noticed these soft-insulated wires are soldered together into a harness a few inches from the controller box under-hood.

Basically I don't want to go cutting into things unnecessarily.

[fenton]

again at 340 i intentionally go WOT in 1st gear at mid corner

[WNDSRFR]

I just finished installing the kit. Very impressed with the way everything goes together. It looks real professional like it was factory installed. Took it for a run and I immediately got a P0108 fault code (something to do with the MAF out of whack) which I guess is something I should expect without the proper tune. I have the OFT and am currently running the Stg 1 A01C.bin that came preloaded on the tablet. Does anyone know if Shiv has released an OTS tune for the ESC on 93 octane? The only performance mods I have right now are a drop-in K&N filter and a Manzo cat-back. Once I finally get the OFH, I will go for the custom tune option. (I've been waiting so long for the header I think Shiv should throw in the custom tune for free!)
I want to thank Rob and all the beta testers for a wonderful product. I hope Rob has a patent on this thing. I think Toyota should seriously think about offering it at least as a factory option.

[Shiv@Openflash]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

I just finished installing the kit. Very impressed with the way everything goes together. It looks real professional like it was factory installed. Took it for a run and I immediately got a P0108 fault code (something to do with the MAF out of whack) which I guess is something I should expect without the proper tune. I have the OFT and am currently running the Stg 1 A01C.bin that came preloaded on the tablet. Does anyone know if Shiv has released an OTS tune for the ESC on 93 octane? The only performance mods I have right now are a drop-in K&N filter and a Manzo cat-back. Once I finally get the OFH, I will go for the custom tune option. (I've been waiting so long for the header I think Shiv should throw in the custom tune for free!)
I want to thank Rob and all the beta testers for a wonderful product. I hope Rob has a patent on this thing. I think Toyota should seriously think about offering it at least as a factory option.

I have sent out OTS maps for the Phantom SC to several people over the last few days. If you need one, just email me (shiv@vishntuning.com) and include your original ROM.

[waterbison777]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

I have sent out OTS maps for the Phantom SC to several people over the last few days. If you need one, just email me (shiv@vishntuning.com) and include your original ROM.

email sent! Thanks

[Robftss]

For track testing guys I will have a simple DIY to enable/disable WOT operation. Stand by....

Playing off @Sojhinn theme it will be called 'Super Pursuit Mode'.
It will be a simple switch which allows you to activate SPM (Just like F1 detection zone for KERS) then use it on the straight, then switch the SPM off to use just DR mode.

Only testing will tell how long using only DR will last. It consumes 100-300 watts @ higher engine rpms and can be sustained using little to no dump battery capacity.

On the bench, 200 Watts can be maintained for 20 minutes straight.

Soon I will have a 'plug and play' aux charger upgrade which provides ~5:1

rob

[WNDSRFR]

Just went out and took some more runs and noticed something really weird.
When under boost at about 6000 RPMs the traction control light comes on. You know, the light that comes on when your wheels are spinning. This is in third and forth gear! I doubt that my wheels are spinning in forth gear on dry pavement. This happens every time I hit about 6000 RPM. Has anybody else noticed this?
Also I have a question for Rob: What is that two conductor connector for that comes out of the motor controller?

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

Just went out and took some more runs and noticed something really weird.
When under boost at about 6000 RPMs the traction control light comes on. You know, the light that comes on when your wheels are spinning. This is in third and forth gear! I doubt that my wheels are spinning in forth gear on dry pavement. This happens every time I hit about 6000 RPM. Has anybody else noticed this?
Also I have a question for Rob: What is that two conductor connector for that comes out of the motor controller?

I had the same issue without a tune.

[Luckrider]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

Just went out and took some more runs and noticed something really weird.
When under boost at about 6000 RPMs the traction control light comes on. You know, the light that comes on when your wheels are spinning. This is in third and forth gear! I doubt that my wheels are spinning in forth gear on dry pavement. This happens every time I hit about 6000 RPM. Has anybody else noticed this?
Also I have a question for Rob: What is that two conductor connector for that comes out of the motor controller?

You would be surprised. With winter tires and 0 degree weather (and salty roads), I can't even really drive with the traction control on fully. It just goes bat-shit insane.

Edit: I should note that I am talking about on e85. I am probably making around 185+ whp if I had to guess.