STX setup sharing thread (2020)

[steverife]

Originally Posted by Breadman

for those with teh whiteline inserts, when you go over rough road at like less than 40mph do you get a bunch of nvh? i thought something was coming loose or my bushings were ripped but i cant find anything in my suspension that is loose, and all my bushings are good. i even injected more grease into all my ball joints since they looked low and it is still there

I potentially have a higher tolerance to NVH and I also put on all my STX parts in one weekend, but no.

[Breadman]

Originally Posted by steverife

I potentially have a higher tolerance to NVH and I also put on all my STX parts in one weekend, but no.

i think it was always there and when i got a quieter exhaust and drove to work everyday i just zoned it out/couldnt hear it.

[bmacfrs]

My mistake. That is the rear. I should pay more attention sometimes .
Yes those are the bolts I had come loose. I retorqued them and noise was gone. Just saying you may want to check the other bolts and nuts around the suspension too if you didn't already.
I agree you should use the vendors recommend spec.


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[Breadman]

oh just an update one of the underbody trays was missing a bunch of clips so i think that was most of the rattling. i know that i broke all the tool clips in my trunk and someone ran over the spare pad. so i think i got it all sorted out. im still going to pull all the bolts and loctite them next week just to be sure

[steverife]

So when I got the car and first bought autocross wheels, I bought parts store lug nuts. And I've also replaced wheel studs with the parts store Dorman studs as needed (haven't had troubles with any of those).

Now that the lugnuts are a few years old, they get stuck in the key repeatedly and one of my wheel studs is due a replacement.

So it seems like a good time to upgrade wheel studs and buy new lugnuts.

Any reason to buy extended studs? The car is fine on 35's, it is easy enough to buy 35's, and I'm not really ever barely hitting cones with the back tire.

[AlanLGuy]

Originally Posted by steverife

So when I got the car and first bought autocross wheels, I bought parts store lug nuts. And I've also replaced wheel studs with the parts store Dorman studs as needed (haven't had troubles with any of those).

Now that the lugnuts are a few years old, they get stuck in the key repeatedly and one of my wheel studs is due a replacement.

So it seems like a good time to upgrade wheel studs and buy new lugnuts.

Any reason to buy extended studs? The car is fine on 35's, it is easy enough to buy 35's, and I'm not really ever barely hitting cones with the back tire.

I ran extended studs even when I was in Street class after cross threading several studs when changing wheels after the event.

The ARP studs are hardened, much less likely to cross thread. Also much easier to get wheels on when changing over.

My issue with cross-threading lugs was due to changing the wheels when the rotors(and wheels) were super hot and probably a little bit of being careless with the electric impact.

I like them. Well worth the cost to me. Obviously no performance benefit, but some peace of mind that thread engagement won’t ever be an issue, I’m not likely to ruin a stud from cross threading and the slight convenience when changing wheels


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[ka-t_240]

I do like the extended studs when swapping wheels. not all wheels will balance nicely on stock length.

I have ARP studs w/ Muteki SR48 lug nuts. I have different lugs for different wheels. My one set of sr48 were on my sti I sold in 2014 when I bought it and it was a track car before then. I swap wheels often. So, I can't recommend these lug nuts enough for the cost.

[RRslip]

I've had the Megan extended studs on my car for 3 years now. No issues.
+1 for the SR48 lugnuts.

[Autoenthusiastasm]

So I’m tired of getting my butt handed to by Type R’s and RS’s. So looks like STX is where I’m going. This is what I’m thinking, RedShift Competition Coilovers, looking at 7k F/R. (400#). Seems like Perrin 22mm bar is most common. I was going to go with LPC LCA but I guess they are illegal u less bushing is changed out. I need to keep the height near stock because I daily and winter drive my car. If I want around -2.5 chamber in the rear can I get there without LCA’s? I am not changing my exhaust . Is the improvement in tourqe with the Unequal length header worth it? I’m Keeping my 7.5 wheels as I have brand new 225 Re 71s and need to use them up or sell before I get my 17x9 wheels. Do I need new endlinks for the front if ride height is near stock? Do I need the subframe (bushings - what do they do?). Is the tablet worth if exhaust is stock. I’m trying to spend my money wisely as my wife is keeping tabs. Not looking for National level build but competitive local mid sized region.

[strat61caster]

Most important to be fast

1 wheel + tire
2 coilovers + swaybar
3 exhaust + tune (get tuner first if you can't do both at the same time, you'll get cel going catless without a tune and 'stage 1' tune is Nice)

I'd prioritize sway bar + end links next to be able to use the adjustability then lcas, odds are you'll be ok on oe arms for rear camber. Subframe Bushings are nice but not necessary, plenty of info about them with a Google search.

[Autoenthusiastasm]

So the tablet is worth the$500. Is there more than one choice?

[Breadman]

.

[BlueWhelan]

Originally Posted by Breadman

so i run 255/40/17s and it was pretty chilly this morning and peaked at liek 67 and i was having traction issues. normally i run at 24 psi since that is what my pyrometer said was pretty even temps and im nearly on the wear indicator. i was talking to the guy next to me that was one of the top paxers and he said to drop down to 18-20 psi. that sounded way too low but in the afternoon i went to 23 then 22 then 21. should i be running them that low? im honestly a noob since this is only my 3rd season and just starting to figure out whats what

Tire pressures in PAX is not an apples to apples comparison. What car/setup/tires was this person running, and what car/setup/tires are you running? Just because something works for him/her doesn't mean it'll translate to your setup. Some race slicks are designed to be run below 20PSI, so it's not unheard of. However, its unlikely 20psi is going to suit your needs.

That said, the real test: how did it feel once you did? Did it get better or worse?

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Autoenthusiastasm

So the tablet is worth the$500. Is there more than one choice?

Ecutek or open flash tablet.

Oft is cheaper initial buy in and remote custom tuning fees. Ecutek custom dyno tune will get you the most power but this follows the 80/20 rule imho.