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Old 02-01-2014, 06:13 PM   #3095
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Originally Posted by shaunsweeney View Post
If you drive WOT and at 5k+ rpm all the time how do you still have a license or money to spend on mods? Some of us realize that commuting is what actually makes up 90% or more of our driving. We don't pretend we live in fast and furious world lol.
Don't kid yourself. Stock, this car is fine for commuting. Start modifying it heavily and that quickly becomes short-lived. With all due respect..

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Old 02-01-2014, 06:18 PM   #3096
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Originally Posted by Lawnik View Post
If that's your driving style why did you by a sports car with a 7k plus RPM limit, as well as several in the past per your sig, and why would you be looking into forced induction?

Did the others die from carbon build up?

How about a V8 geared for towing? Must be because of the focus on MPG, but hp and mpg don't really go together.

Edit: Did I just fall into a troll trap?
I can assure you he is not a troll.

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Old 02-01-2014, 06:19 PM   #3097
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you realize that showing part throttle, sub 3k will look like nothing on a dyno correct? thats all in the street tuning aspect of live tuning. dyno plots are for WOT power pulls
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Old 02-01-2014, 06:20 PM   #3098
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you realize that showing part throttle, sub 3k will look like nothing on a dyno correct? thats all in the street tuning aspect of live tuning. dyno plots are for WOT power pulls
I hope that is not directed at me. We're on the same page.

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Old 02-01-2014, 06:43 PM   #3099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawnik View Post
If that's your driving style why did you by a sports car with a 7k plus RPM limit, as well as several in the past per your sig, and why would you be looking into forced induction?

Did the others die from carbon build up?

How about a V8 geared for towing? Must be because of the focus on MPG, but hp and mpg don't really go together.

Edit: Did I just fall into a troll trap?
I do go to track days and occasionally floor it on on-ramps but aside from that I keep it under 3k. I wouldn't say I never push it, just not as often as you hooligans.
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:07 PM   #3100
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Yes. 92 octane 10% eth. This is the dude formally known as tech4pdx. I dropped that handle. Many mods.. Intake, full exhaust, equal length headers, WMI, pulleys, 70mm sc pulley, carbon shaft, more..

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Who tuned the car?
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:33 PM   #3101
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Who tuned the car?
Bobby the tuner at PRE Racing, Portland, OR. Now works at Silverline in Portland. He's tuned several of the PDX cars.

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Old 02-01-2014, 07:55 PM   #3102
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I hope that is not directed at me. We're on the same page.

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Not all all, more of a general statement
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:17 PM   #3103
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Bobby the tuner at PRE Racing, Portland, OR. Now works at Silverline in Portland. He's tuned several of the PDX cars.

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Seems to be a decent tune
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Old 02-01-2014, 09:05 PM   #3104
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Installed my intercooler, for me pics and details check by build thread:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...=23136&page=24

Some oil in the elbow (I don't have a catch can):


Twin Screw:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xd6nLPOMtQI"]Innovate Blower BRZ - YouTube[/ame]
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:34 AM   #3105
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Received some new goodies thought worth sharing as the price and quality superb.

Bought 3 sizes of the @Receseng pulleys, opted for the blemished pulleys due to them being $30 cheaper, I can't find a single defect so there quality assurance must be impicable. Belt runs perfect on these pulleys.
I get why all of you in the States run the 70mm the power delivery over the 75mm puts a on my face.

Opted for the D1 Spec Oil Catch Can, as the local Subaru racers use them and highly recommend. For $100 this can is super quality and well made. Battled to find a easy spot to fit, so once again the tower brace came in handy, just uses U bolts to clamp. Took for a spin after 100km could see small amounts of oil in the clear pipes, so it works. Will change the clear pipes to proper black rubber pipes next week.

Then something small, but also highly recommended by the race team, is increasing your radiator cap pressure, our OEM cap is rated at 1.1 bar, I increased the cap pressure to 1.3 bar. I got the TRD cap initially, but opted to get the D1 Spec to match color.
Upping the valve opening pressure of the pressure regulator on the radiator cap to allow higher radiator pressure increases the boiling point of the coolant, reduces bubbles, improves cooling, and generally maximizes the cooling performance of the radiator.

Here some pics installed.
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:04 AM   #3106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan86 View Post
Received some new goodies thought worth sharing as the price and quality superb.

Bought 3 sizes of the @Receseng pulleys, opted for the blemished pulleys due to them being $30 cheaper, I can't find a single defect so there quality assurance must be impicable. Belt runs perfect on these pulleys.
I get why all of you in the States run the 70mm the power delivery over the 75mm puts a on my face.

Opted for the D1 Spec Oil Catch Can, as the local Subaru racers use them and highly recommend. For $100 this can is super quality and well made. Battled to find a easy spot to fit, so once again the tower brace came in handy, just uses U bolts to clamp. Took for a spin after 100km could see small amounts of oil in the clear pipes, so it works. Will change the clear pipes to proper black rubber pipes next week.

Then something small, but also highly recommended by the race team, is increasing your radiator cap pressure, our OEM cap is rated at 1.1 bar, I increased the cap pressure to 1.3 bar. I got the TRD cap initially, but opted to get the D1 Spec to match color.
Upping the valve opening pressure of the pressure regulator on the radiator cap to allow higher radiator pressure increases the boiling point of the coolant, reduces bubbles, improves cooling, and generally maximizes the cooling performance of the radiator.

Here some pics installed.
What belt are you running on the 70mm pulley?
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:08 AM   #3107
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I using Blue Gates on all the pulleys from 75 down to 70mm

BG on 75mm bitch to get on, 70mm it's ok
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:38 AM   #3108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evan View Post
Who drives this car below 3k? It's not in it's powerband to be below 3k. PD supercharger is going to have the least lag out of most other FI solutions. The only time I'm under 3k is when taking off normally from a stop. Sometimes when going highway speeds in 6th cruising along, but I certainly don't punch it in 6th. I downshift to 5th or 4th depending on what my intention is.

Edit: I have this SC with a brzedit tune and no lag. 277whp dyno dynamics uncorrected, looking for over 300whp on E85 and injectors/pump.

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Who? Anyone at a a stop sign or light. Or anyone not wanting to fuck up their engine before the thermostat opens. That's who. Good you answered your own question. You obviously haven't looked at a lot of supercharger dynos compared to stock below 2.5-3k. Read some of the impressions of some supercharger installations having lag. While a well dialed in tune can help, I'm not sure it will always be the fix for such issues. Believe me, I don't need a lesson 101 from you about a twin-screw lysholm positive displacement compressor or any forced induction methodology. If I did, I would have asked so don't be so flippant in your response.

Last edited by Boxer486; 02-02-2014 at 02:52 AM.
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