Tein Flex Z opinion

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by bfrank1972

Mike, what's your opinion in the newer EDFC with g sensors - where it stiffens the dampers as they load. Is that actually beneficial at all for handling? I can imagine it would at least help reduce weight transfer during braking. Thanks


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It can work extremely well, if tuned well.

[Shady195]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It makes me really happy that you're playing with the settings to find your preference, rather than having a "set it and forget it" mentality.

I always get weird looks when I adjust dampers before driving away from a meet.

Actually happened to me the other day. I say goodbye to everyone, i pop my hood and my trunk and everyeone was looking at me like I was crazy adjusting them

[SilverFRS]

Which edfc motor kit part numbers fit our cars or are all those pn included in the kit as a generic fit everything kit?

[Shady195]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Properly torque the top nut, and use thread locker. You can slightly overtorque it if you need to, but that's your call.

How do we go about holding the top of the strut in place while tightening the top nut? Stockers have that allen key, these do not?

I have a slight "clunk" and im trying to track it down. Not sure if its the suspension or something else but I can't seem to find what it is. I re-torqued all the other suspension bits.

[banane63]

Originally Posted by SilverFRS

Which edfc motor kit part numbers fit our cars or are all those pn included in the kit as a generic fit everything kit?

Only one motor model fits our cars : EDK05-12140
See :

http://www.tein.com/srch/edfc_us_ref...S4&ktk=0&sld=1

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by SilverFRS

Which edfc motor kit part numbers fit our cars or are all those pn included in the kit as a generic fit everything kit?

I'll send you info as soon as I get some more free time. Got quite a few meetings today. @banane63 has the website showing a general setup.

[Trettiosjuan]

Originally Posted by ajc209

You might be right. I'm not sure what is avaliable in that price range with more bump travel?

I know a chap in sweden that has the same problem with bump travel on rough surfaces.

The front dampers do benefit from a bit more spring rate on rougher surfaces becuase they have a bit too much rebound.

That could be me. I found that stock bottomed out a bit too easy on successive bumps (too soft springs/too much rebound), now have RCE yellow, a little better but @-20mm that are a tad too low but they are the least lowering spring with the highest workable spring rate that I could find. And the limited bump travel is the main drawback to go for these or any other coilover. More travel on 6kg springs would make for some awsome bump abosorbtion, but will also give a harder time on the damper...

Originally Posted by churchx

Mike: but he refers not some generic gravel rallying, but rather daily driving, and while "rally", but "Tarmac rally style", which i guess is probably something like what most think of spirited canyon driving on public roads. Goes inline with my feeling that as stock toyobaru are as low as it makes practical sense on average far from perfect non japan public roads, hence last thing i'd wish to lower it even more. I dislike a bit most makers targeting lowering customers, but heck, probably just because it's what sells and what is voted for with wallet, so hard to argue with such decision in business sense, even if because of that i miss out some quality products not made for stock height/clearance. ....

In the same position as you and Mars2, I wish there were options that outright targeted back road drivers with some more performance (some more rate (4,5kg?) + more travel + better damping + better comfort) without lowering. Happy to find you, but three people aren't enough to make a dedicated suspension for (of course there should be more, but how many?). At the same time, I have a budget for this car, and spending 8000 dollars or whatever on custom suspension / Group N rally coilovers is not an option.

Frankly, I am a bit surprised I'm in the Flex Z thread and not the Flex A thread (here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=89113&page=2), even if rates and bump stroke are the same, the Hydraulic Bump Stop is what sparked my interest formost. (We can continue here or you can just quote this in the Flex A thread).

Either way, my concern has also been, will I be disappointed with bump travel and will I be riding that (hydraulic) bump stop all the time? Without preload, the corner weight of 370kg, 6kg springs, I get a bump travel at the front shock of (93 - (370/6))mm = 31mm. A bump stop still has to fit in those 30+mm, so bump stop free bump travel is very little. This also means that rebound travel 62mm with complete unloading (no preload). The question now is, how much preload can you add before the car becomes unruly because there is too little extension and wheels loose contact with the ground before fully unloading the suspension? What does the installation manual state? If one can add 10mm preload, 41mm bump travel might just do it for me in combination with the hydraulic bump stop.

By the way @Mars2, if ground clearance itself is a problem, why don't you just run you Flex Z higher up by extending the length of the body? And if there is a preload setting in the manual, also run them at max suggested preload (please let me know if you have figures on this). These measures should really improve things a lot, even if limited bump travel, you can increase ground clearance nevertheless!

If I get Flex A, that is what I will do, run them at perhaps -10mm from stock to start... IF....

[jdiego]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Properly torque the top nut, and use thread locker. You can slightly overtorque it if you need to, but that's your call.

Well I've tried this option on the car and the driver side is still giving the loose sound. The passenger side, when torqued properly even without thread locking, has quieted down. I've reported it to the supplier and he will be filing a claim from Japan. His opinion is that the shock is faulty. Probably going to have to wait a month until the shock arrives before i find out if he is right.

Would it be a good idea to totally disassemble the driver side coilover and check whether the pillow ball nut and bearings are aligned and not buggered? I figure when the shock arrives I will have to do this anyway.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by jdiego

Well I've tried this option on the car and the driver side is still giving the loose sound. The passenger side, when torqued properly even without thread locking, has quieted down. I've reported it to the supplier and he will be filing a claim from Japan. His opinion is that the shock is faulty. Probably going to have to wait a month until the shock arrives before i find out if he is right.

Would it be a good idea to totally disassemble the driver side coilover and check whether the pillow ball nut and bearings are aligned and not buggered? I figure when the shock arrives I will have to do this anyway.

Only if you know what you're doing.

[Shady195]

Having a bit of an issue hoping maybe someone can help with..

I've developed a slight "clunk" tends to happen on smaller bumps when the car is rocking a bit..

I checked the torque on the tophat nuts, Lower contral arms, sway bar endlinks, the front tophats and knuckles, all seems well...

I saw someone mentioned earlier that the nut on the tophatt that connects to the shock comes loose.. How do I check the torque on that without spinning or putting leverage on the shock? The stock sturts have a cutout so you can use an allen key to hold it... what about these? I put a little pressure on them and it appears it just flexes the bushing.

[buruguduy]

Have this kit for a few days now and couldn't be happier with it. At its price point, it is an awesome kit for a daily driven car in my opinion. Significant improvement in ride and handling is easily noticeable. I think maybe even the steering got lighter. Even my wife felt the improvements and was happy with it.

Currently running with the recommended settings (7/8 clicks fr/bk) and it is practical for my daily route, comfortable but still responsive. I have also tried 5 clicks from stiff all 4 and I think it is a good balanced setting, will definitely feel road imperfections more but still comfortable enough. I'll definitely be playing with different settings soon.

I'll never forget to thank the people at @CounterSpace Garage for hooking me up with a kit and answering my noob questions! THANK YOU CSG!

[93Targa]

Originally Posted by Shady195

Having a bit of an issue hoping maybe someone can help with..

I've developed a slight "clunk" tends to happen on smaller bumps when the car is rocking a bit..

I checked the torque on the tophat nuts, Lower contral arms, sway bar endlinks, the front tophats and knuckles, all seems well...

I saw someone mentioned earlier that the nut on the tophatt that connects to the shock comes loose.. How do I check the torque on that without spinning or putting leverage on the shock? The stock sturts have a cutout so you can use an allen key to hold it... what about these? I put a little pressure on them and it appears it just flexes the bushing.

Did you ever get an answer to this?

[Shady195]

Originally Posted by 93Targa

Did you ever get an answer to this?

I have not as of yet.. I'm not TOOO concerened right now as it doesn't happen really under any condition other than a low speed very bumpy road that causes the car to "rock" back and forth.

[Bramick]

Originally Posted by Shady195

I have not as of yet.. I'm not TOOO concerened right now as it doesn't happen really under any condition other than a low speed very bumpy road that causes the car to "rock" back and forth.

I get this too.