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09-28-2016, 03:51 AM | #3011 |
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Is RCE going to be doing new springs for the Sacks ZF dampers on the 2017 Performance Package?
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09-28-2016, 11:24 AM | #3012 | |
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KW spring sag
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Do you think the sag (1/2 inch) has affected the spring rate significantly? Is this something that warrants changing out the springs? |
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09-28-2016, 11:37 AM | #3013 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to DeaconRoc For This Useful Post: | Racecomp Engineering (10-03-2016) |
09-28-2016, 12:14 PM | #3014 | |
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If I was in your position I absolutely would be ordering springs right now. I have no idea how much of a difference it would make but I would absolutely not trust those springs. Rates should be in the manual or some marketing material, iirc KW uses 60mm ID springs, likely 6" long. Eibach catalog: http://eibach.com/sites/devperforman...20_Catalog.pdf Hyperco catalog: http://www.hypercoils.com/hyperco-catalog Find the spring part number you want, google it, order from the cheapest site, I've bought from Summit, Pro Parts, and Pit Stop USA without trouble. Last edited by strat61caster; 09-28-2016 at 12:27 PM. |
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09-28-2016, 12:33 PM | #3015 |
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@Racecomp Engineering, as you upgrade to spherical bushings, how much this should be taken into account when selecting alignment settings?
Is my understanding that in hard corners, as soft oem bushings flex, alignment changes more drastically than with spherical bushings, but is it a big difference? So lets say I like 1/16 toe in at the rears. With oem bushings that is ok because on acceleration tires/wheels "open" up so the tires are not being dragged causing extreme wear, but with spherical, toe in should be reduced because with less flex, tire wear would increase more dramatically. Is this correct? |
09-28-2016, 01:54 PM | #3016 | |
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The softer the spring, the farther it is compressed when the car is just standing still and thus the greater potential for memory loss. Think of the extreme case where you squeeze a spring all the way until the coils bind, and left it there for two years. You wouldn't be surprised if it ended up a little shorter when you finally released it. If you're ok with your current ride height, AND you have enough shock travel while basically missing a half inch of spring (not riding on the bump stops), I wouldn't do anything. If you want to raise the car you're going to need new springs at the correct length. |
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10-03-2016, 11:07 AM | #3017 |
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Why is it that a lot of high end dampers (I'm thinking olhins TTX, JRZ, Moton, etc) are tuned more for low speed shaft velocities than high speed? Is it because at higher (track) speeds (and typically these sorts of dampers would be used more in race type situations) low speed shaft velocities are more important whereas for normal road use it's the high speed velocities that are more of an issue?
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10-03-2016, 01:20 PM | #3018 | |
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Coil over life span
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10-03-2016, 02:28 PM | #3020 | |
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Up front with the lower control arms is where you'll see more of the "designed in" bushing flex. In general, I keep the front toe at 0 either way and with sphericals I enjoy the sharper response and more consistent behavior. I'd be more likely to alter it from that on a stock bushing car BUT then you'd be sacrificing tire wear when you daily drive. Either way it is worth some driving and testing for each car/driver. Hope that helps. It's a tough question. - Andrew |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Racecomp Engineering For This Useful Post: | endless_pain (10-04-2016) |
10-03-2016, 02:41 PM | #3021 | |
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Higher end dampers should have attention paid to the full range of piston velocities when they're being tuned, but the low speed becomes very important because that's where the handling happens and you get to control the rate of weight transfer through a corner. Bumps are of course still a thing on the track and a good high end damper will handle them well too. Many high end motorsports shocks will ride awesome over big bumps. I've also been on some that ride well over big bumps, but actually ride poorly over what you thought were smooth roads simply because they have so much gas pressure and low speed damping. They're still great on the track and will eat up big mid-corner bumps, kerbing, and train tracks...but you'll feel your man boobs or female boobs jiggle on nice pavement. Always a lot of compromises to be made. - Andrew |
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10-04-2016, 04:37 PM | #3022 | |
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Quote:
We did a few back to back tests on a really rough and bumpy road of the Motons against some Tein monosports. At low road speed the Motons were pretty jiggly and the teins not too bad (these monosports have had the spring rates lowered to 6/7kg from the usual 8/9kg). However when we upped the speeds the Motons really came into their own. For instance, one part of the road has a fairly large ridge - at 45mph in the tein equipped car you felt the wheels lose traction with the road whereas in the Moton equipped car you could be going a good 10mph quicker and still maintain full traction with the road over the ridge. As you said compromises! |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to DeaconRoc For This Useful Post: | ajc209 (10-07-2016), Racecomp Engineering (10-04-2016) |
10-25-2016, 10:27 PM | #3023 |
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Rear Sway Bar Size?
What is the opinion of @Racecomp Engineering on a size of rear sway bar upgrade for my setup:
RCE Yellows on stock struts 17x9 +35 RPF1 245/40-17 Conti ECDW Trying to reduce understeer, but not sure if a 16 mm solid bar would be enough to help, or need to go bigger. If anyone has experience here, let me know! Here is my current alignment specs:
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10-26-2016, 01:06 PM | #3024 |
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^Knowing your alignment numbers would be helpful as well.
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The Following User Says Thank You to OkieSnuffBox For This Useful Post: | Racecomp Engineering (10-26-2016) |
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