Recommend a 0W-40 for me please

[PunX]

I'm stock and running Bardahl 0W30, can't be more happy, oil keeps at normal temp and doesn't go 120 degrees C(248F) any more during fun time or slow traffic. So i would recommend 0W40 for FI, even 0W50 from ENEOS if accessible in any way, 0w50 is LFA's stock engine oil :P
Of course there's this cold crank oil pressure debate, but in a long run - everybody should decide on their own, if they travel by 1/4th of a mile a time or like running 1,5h drift sessions

[Knshro13]

Mobil 1 0w-40 European formula.

[rice_classic]

Only since the OP used the words "prohibitively expensive" I'm going to repeat what others have said:

The Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro oil is very good along with the Amsoil 0w-40 signature.

Google either one with the "UOA" and "VOA" in the search string to see their specs both new and used. The HTHS, TBN and additives are right in line with what you're looking for: Affordability, protection level, duration and cost.

[Crazypinoy9]

Anyone using Rotella T6 5w40? I used to use it in my STi and have been thinking of switching out from the 0w20 i've using right now.

*it'll help if i mentioned that i'm on FI too

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by Crazypinoy9

Anyone using Rotella T6 5w40? I used to use it in my STi and have been thinking of switching out from the 0w20 i've using right now.

*it'll help if i mentioned that i'm on FI too

Even though the T6 is a 5w-40 it says on the bottle that it's comparable to a 15w-40 oil.

Pros: Cheap, good additives for Diesel and DI engines.

Cons: Extra wear on startup.

Anecdotal:

I tried it for a race weekend this year because I like to try new things from time to time and toward the end the of the day I watched the pressure fall (temp static) which suggests shearing and by the end of the weekend I consistently running 5-10 psi less than I was when I started the weekend. So I did some digging and kept finding an underlying theme about how this oil shears down at high rpm becoming more like a 30wt which would explain what I experienced.

I replaced the oil with Mobil1 0w-40 for the following event and did a 6 entry race weekend with over 6 hours of race time and the pressure stayed the same throughout the weekend (which is what I'm used to). So no more Rotella T6 for me in the race car.


With that being said.. If 90% of engine wear occurs at startup, I'd want to run an 0w-xx for something that's also DD. If it's only tracked or is a dedicated race car then startup wear isn't as important.

[Crazypinoy9]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Even though the T6 is a 5w-40 it says on the bottle that it's comparable to a 15w-40 oil.

Pros: Cheap, good additives for Diesel and DI engines.

Cons: Extra wear on startup.

Anecdotal:

I tried it for a race weekend this year because I like to try new things from time to time and toward the end the of the day I watched the pressure fall (temp static) which suggests shearing and by the end of the weekend I consistently running 5-10 psi less than I was when I started the weekend. So I did some digging and kept finding an underlying theme about how this oil shears down at high rpm becoming more like a 30wt which would explain what I experienced.

I replaced the oil with Mobil1 0w-40 for the following event and did a 6 entry race weekend with over 6 hours of race time and the pressure stayed the same throughout the weekend (which is what I'm used to). So no more Rotella T6 for me in the race car.


With that being said.. If 90% of engine wear occurs at startup, I'd want to run an 0w-xx for something that's also DD. If it's only tracked or is a dedicated race car then startup wear isn't as important.

Noted. Thanks so much for your input. I'll just go with a 0w40 then