DIY Oil Change Worth It?

[Canibalistik]

I'd do it yourself for the sake of knowing it is done properly with the correct amount of oil! I've been a professional tech for the last 12 years, and I can tell you horror stories of what I'd like to call, "High Velocity Engine Flushes," lol.

On the other hand, if you're just wondering if it will save you money if you do it yourself. No, in most cases, the oil you'd buy at a store will be more expensive than just having it all done at once...plus most every shop in business will take competitors' coupons. Why not you know? If they don't let you, you'll use it elsewhere! Anyways, I used to change my own at the house, but ended up constantly buying Royal Purple or Castrol GTX Full Syn, and it was actually more expensive.

I'd also recommend to anyone reading this thread, to avoid factory set oil change schedules. Those were set based on daily driving under normal easy conditions, NOT extreme conditions. Most of us enthusiasts are known to drive a little hard from time to time; or even racing. If you're driving hard, you risk the oil breaking down faster, so I'd suggest changing it every 3-5...even with full synthetic.

Baby the engine for the first 500 miles, then change the oil to get the break-in oil out. At this point decide whether you're going to go full synthetic, blend, or conventional oil, and stick to the same type of oil for the rest of the life of the car. It's not a real good idea to swap to synthetic two years down the road, as seals have come accustomed to the oil they've been using. Convention oil is thicker when its cold, where full synthetic doesn't change consistency, and on colder mornings, you could develop a leak or saturation on a seal, where the conventional oil wouldn't of leaked - thins as it heats, while seals expand with heat. Anyways after the initial change at 500, I'd change every 3,000-5,000 depending on how you drive your car. Also, the best bet to save money...is to check your oil regularly, if it's low-ish...change it, if it's dark/burnt...change it, if its clear and smooth, you're probably okay to keep going on it.

[n8dog11914]

NAPA 0W-20 Sale - 6Qts @ $3.49 / Qt = $20.94
OEM Subaru Oil Filter and Washer =~$7

Total = ~$28

I call that a win.

[N1rve]

Originally Posted by Canibalistik

I'd do it yourself for the sake of knowing it is done properly with the correct amount of oil! I've been a professional tech for the last 12 years, and I can tell you horror stories of what I'd like to call, "High Velocity Engine Flushes," lol.

On the other hand, if you're just wondering if it will save you money if you do it yourself. No, in most cases, the oil you'd buy at a store will be more expensive than just having it all done at once...plus most every shop in business will take competitors' coupons. Why not you know? If they don't let you, you'll use it elsewhere! Anyways, I used to change my own at the house, but ended up constantly buying Royal Purple or Castrol GTX Full Syn, and it was actually more expensive.

I'd also recommend to anyone reading this thread, to avoid factory set oil change schedules. Those were set based on daily driving under normal easy conditions, NOT extreme conditions. Most of us enthusiasts are known to drive a little hard from time to time; or even racing. If you're driving hard, you risk the oil breaking down faster, so I'd suggest changing it every 3-5...even with full synthetic.

Baby the engine for the first 500 miles, then change the oil to get the break-in oil out. At this point decide whether you're going to go full synthetic, blend, or conventional oil, and stick to the same type of oil for the rest of the life of the car. It's not a real good idea to swap to synthetic two years down the road, as seals have come accustomed to the oil they've been using. Convention oil is thicker when its cold, where full synthetic doesn't change consistency, and on colder mornings, you could develop a leak or saturation on a seal, where the conventional oil wouldn't of leaked - thins as it heats, while seals expand with heat. Anyways after the initial change at 500, I'd change every 3,000-5,000 depending on how you drive your car. Also, the best bet to save money...is to check your oil regularly, if it's low-ish...change it, if it's dark/burnt...change it, if its clear and smooth, you're probably okay to keep going on it.

I'm not a "professional tech" anymore...former Toyota Technican years that's been out of the garage for about 5 years. I'm an IT Engineer and this is what I know.... I could be wrong, but I highly doubt it.

My Subaru dealer charges 54.95 for an oil change currently (promotion), and my Toyota Dealership charges 99.99 for a Scion FRS oil change. Both with 0W-20 oil.

You can get a 6 quarts of oil for about 4 dollars per quart, you're at 24 dollars. The filter is like 6 bucks and the washer is like 50 cents.

The total is around 31 dollars to do it yourself. The math explains if it's worth doing it yourself.


Now onto "not following the factory recommended interval"... People have performed an oil analysis and there are reports of the oil being in good shape at 7,500 miles. People who change it at 5k miles get recommendations of extending their oil change interval. In this case, it would only harm your wallet to change it earlier than necessary.

You don't baby the engine for the first 500 miles, you keep the engine at varying speeds and under 4000 RPM for the first 1000 miles. Why? Because the engineers built the engine and put this in the manual. It can be debated if the lawyers put it in there, but if they felt 500 miles is enough, they would had put 500 and not 1000.

No where in the manual does it state to change the oil early at 500 miles. Factory fills have more moly which helps in the break in.

Switching from synthetic to conventional doesn't cause any oil problems or leaks. If the car is leaking oil, it's because the seals are bad. The way conventional oil flows is different from synthetic. Conventional motor molecules vary in size as synthetic motor oil molecules are uniform.





Due to a different flow, the crevices that the previous oil didn't flow through now has oil flowing through it, hence "leaks" but as I already explained it's because the car already has a oil leak.

If it's low change the oil? Why would you do that? Some cars naturally burn oil. Some more than others. If the car is burning oil at an alarming rate, I would check the piston rings and not change the oil because the car is low on oil.

Color does not indicate the life of the oil. You can run the oil for 1000 miles and it could turn pitch black. It just means the oil is working and it is cleaning your engine.

[Poodles]

Places advertise $30-$40 for oil changes on most cars. That's 5 quarts of conventional 5w-30 oil as it covers most cars.


This car takes 5.8 quarts of synthetic 0w-20.


In other words you're not going to get that price. You'll probably pay nearly double that. On the flip side, oil changes (as well as air filter changes) are the easiest maintenance items to do on a car, so it's a good place to learn.

[Euro7R]

I DIY my oil changes not because to save money. I just don't want the dealership to mess up my car doing a simple task. I keep my receipts to document the oil changes.

[Whitesoul]

Alright so any preferences of what Oil to buy and such. I see the 0w-20..whatever that means hehehehehe ..I AM A COMPLETE CAR NOOB...I don't even have a floor jack, jack stands, ramp or anything but my garage has a little ramp so I think I could change the oil if I reverse in and leave the hood hanging over!

Questions:
What Oil do I need (Synthetic) and can I buy it at O'Reilly's / Autozona (I live in Vegas)

Filter - I've seen the word Fumata, same question as above.

Anything else? I've seen places offer with Lube...I don't know what means;

Can I truly do this on my own or should I have my neighbor who works on his own cars teach me this first time?


THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP I appreciate it. Sorry for being a newb!

[2point0]

Yes, you can do this as long as you can get under the car to reach the drain plug. You don't even need to remove any of the undertrays.

Filter - get this from the dealer. They're a few bucks each and I like to get 2 or 3 each time I go so I always have them on hand.

Oil - If you have a Napa Auto Parts nearby, they should carry Eneos 0w-20. Otherwise, the only stuff I've seen at the local O'reilly's or Autozone is a Mobil "fuel efficiency" blend. If you can find any performance auto shop around, they might carry Motul, which is great stuff, but might be more expensive than Eneos, which is good stuff anyway.

If you haven't already read the DIY I mentioned earlier, look it up (it's in the DIY subforum), along with any other oil change DIYs you might find in there. Then see what questions you have left after that.

[2point0]

Although it should be pointed out in any DIY, it should be noted that you want the car to be level when filling it back up with oil and checking the level.

[N1rve]

Originally Posted by 2point0

Although it should be pointed out in any DIY, it should be noted that you want the car to be level when filling it back up with oil and checking the level.

Also take the lower level marking

[mla163]

While I can do it myself, it's not worth it for me.

I have to go buy the buy the oil. It ends up taking an hour including getting out the ramps, changing the oil and cleanup. Then I got to dispose of the oil. It's not worth my time. I'll gladly pay someone to do it for a few bucks.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by Canibalistik

I'd do it yourself for the sake of knowing it is done properly with the correct amount of oil! I've been a professional tech for the last 12 years, and I can tell you horror stories of what I'd like to call, "High Velocity Engine Flushes," lol.

On the other hand, if you're just wondering if it will save you money if you do it yourself. No, in most cases, the oil you'd buy at a store will be more expensive than just having it all done at once...plus most every shop in business will take competitors' coupons. Why not you know? If they don't let you, you'll use it elsewhere! Anyways, I used to change my own at the house, but ended up constantly buying Royal Purple or Castrol GTX Full Syn, and it was actually more expensive.

I'd also recommend to anyone reading this thread, to avoid factory set oil change schedules. Those were set based on daily driving under normal easy conditions, NOT extreme conditions. Most of us enthusiasts are known to drive a little hard from time to time; or even racing. If you're driving hard, you risk the oil breaking down faster, so I'd suggest changing it every 3-5...even with full synthetic.

Baby the engine for the first 500 miles, then change the oil to get the break-in oil out. At this point decide whether you're going to go full synthetic, blend, or conventional oil, and stick to the same type of oil for the rest of the life of the car. It's not a real good idea to swap to synthetic two years down the road, as seals have come accustomed to the oil they've been using. Convention oil is thicker when its cold, where full synthetic doesn't change consistency, and on colder mornings, you could develop a leak or saturation on a seal, where the conventional oil wouldn't of leaked - thins as it heats, while seals expand with heat. Anyways after the initial change at 500, I'd change every 3,000-5,000 depending on how you drive your car. Also, the best bet to save money...is to check your oil regularly, if it's low-ish...change it, if it's dark/burnt...change it, if its clear and smooth, you're probably okay to keep going on it.

Do you have data to suport this? The UOA i just did along with others on the board have run engines hard (auto x/track/canyons) and are fine with 7500 intervals. Hell, they told me to run to 9500 next time.

[Poodles]

Originally Posted by mla163

While I can do it myself, it's not worth it for me.

I have to go buy the buy the oil. It ends up taking an hour including getting out the ramps, changing the oil and cleanup. Then I got to dispose of the oil. It's not worth my time. I'll gladly pay someone to do it for a few bucks.

Perfectly acceptable if your time is worth more to you than that. Not everyone makes that kind of money (and some people like working on their cars).


I'd probably pawn it off on someone else too (or I'd have a lift in my garage and do it in no time)

[Thunderleg]

it's around $70 at subaru here in Denver. If you can do it for 30, don't waste your time. It's fun doing your own, as long as you are saving money. But for that price let them get dirty for you

[RickyBobby]

I use this. Works great. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/America-5060-Topsider-Multi-Purpose-Removing/dp/B001445IZ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408706480&sr=8-1&keywords=Air+Power+America+5060+Topsider+Multi-Purpose+Fluid+Removing+System"]http://www.amazon.com/America-5060-Topsider-Multi-Purpose-Removing/dp/B001445IZ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408706480&sr=8-1&keywords=Air+Power+America+5060+Topsider+Multi-Purpose+Fluid+Removing+System[/ame]

Since the filter is on top no need to jack up the car or use ramps.