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Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires.

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Old 06-05-2014, 09:14 PM   #15
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Updating thread. I went to auto zone and les swab and they didn't offer any shorter lugs. Any other place I could to and see if they offer them?
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Old 06-05-2014, 11:36 PM   #16
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Old 06-06-2014, 06:29 PM   #17
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I tried wheel spacers in the past and it got frustrated with all the issues I ran into. I ended up getting hub adapters you don't have to worry about lug nuts or putting stress on the stud and risk the stud from shearing or anything, money well spent


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Old 06-06-2014, 07:13 PM   #18
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does your wheels have hub rings? usually hub rings prevent the shaking and wobbling.
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:21 PM   #19
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I hAve hub adapters for now since I can't afford rim n tires right now. I just moved from NY to Cali last august so I'm kinda saving up. I researched just about everything I wanted for my frs. I decided coil overs and stance was the first thing I had to improve. So I have 35mm wheel hub adapters rear and 20mm adapter in front, stock wheels. So the car looks really nice with the stock wheel rim flush with the fender. I lowered my car about 1.75 inches. I get no rub, love how it rides. For now that'll do until the next mod.


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Old 06-06-2014, 08:23 PM   #20
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:28 PM   #21
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does your wheels have hub rings? usually hub rings prevent the shaking and wobbling.
Did you read the thread? Hubcentricity is fine, the spacer's lug nuts are too thick and are hitting the backside of the wheel, preventing it from sitting flush.

I had the same issue with front 20mm spacers, about 3/16 wobble side to side. I ended up shaving my lug nuts down a couple mm with a Dremel and a fiber cutoff wheel, Checked them each with a caliper, and rounded the outer corners slightly. It took some time but worked great. My snow wheels are steelies, and the steel is stamped into shape. They have a relief stamped into them between the holes, but the edges of the relief are rounded (not machined) and hit the lugnuts. The rear is a 25mm, and the lug nuts are just below the surface so no prob there.
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Old 06-06-2014, 09:08 PM   #22
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Oh okay, sorry I misread that. The actual wheel hub adapters came with rings but not stock wheels and stock hubs. Without the custom hub rings I would of gotten that wobble as well.


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Old 06-07-2014, 04:02 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelhaus View Post
Did you read the thread? Hubcentricity is fine, the spacer's lug nuts are too thick and are hitting the backside of the wheel, preventing it from sitting flush.

I had the same issue with front 20mm spacers, about 3/16 wobble side to side. I ended up shaving my lug nuts down a couple mm with a Dremel and a fiber cutoff wheel, Checked them each with a caliper, and rounded the outer corners slightly. It took some time but worked great. My snow wheels are steelies, and the steel is stamped into shape. They have a relief stamped into them between the holes, but the edges of the relief are rounded (not machined) and hit the lugnuts. The rear is a 25mm, and the lug nuts are just below the surface so no prob there.
I'm thinking that's what it's coming down too. The only thing I'm worried about is shaving to much and ruining the thread or the steering the nut.
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Old 06-07-2014, 04:31 PM   #24
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how many mm spacer did you use?
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Old 06-07-2014, 06:01 PM   #25
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For my car or is that question for vic?



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Old 06-07-2014, 06:57 PM   #26
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I'm thinking that's what it's coming down too. The only thing I'm worried about is shaving to much and ruining the thread or the steering the nut.
"or the steering the nut?"
Do you mean destroying the nut?

If you do have to go this route, honestly I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you're only removing one or two threads worth, it's not really going to make a difference in holding power. Second, the direction the nut threads onto the stud is such that all the good threads will be engaged first, and the last thread that was cut will be pushed outward as the lug is tightened, so no debris should be caught between the threads. Also, the nut is steel, so you'd have to REALLY botch it up to make it unusable...

You could also clamp the nut in a vise and use the cutoff wheel back and forth vertically to shave a little bit at a time, or use it like a meat slicer and shave off a section in one swoop. If you're good with power tools, you could use a bigger angle grinder and gnarf off more at once, and then finish with a Dremel.

Here's the Dremel cutoff kit I recommend. It's sturdy and has a quick swap feature. WAY better than the individual discs that you have to replace with a small screwdriver. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Cu...8-01/202263203
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Old 06-07-2014, 08:48 PM   #27
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Why not get spacers that do not have built in studs and just replace stock studs with longer ones. With the help of a member I plan to do that today along with installing eibach Pro Springs. 20mm rears and 15mm in the front. I am afraid its gonna poke to much but we shall see.
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Old 06-07-2014, 09:11 PM   #28
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Why not get spacers that do not have built in studs and just replace stock studs with longer ones. With the help of a member I plan to do that today along with installing eibach Pro Springs. 20mm rears and 15mm in the front. I am afraid its gonna poke to much but we shall see.
Longer studs are ideal, but unfortunately require a lot more work. Bolt on spacers are supposed to be quick and easy.
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