Phantom TQ250 Dyno FBO (Dual Battery Pack)

[fenton]

Originally Posted by R2

I don't have an ESC, but I have been considering it. One of the holdups for me is the lack of proportional control which would become an issue during autox, I'm quite certain of it. This post elaborates a bit on my concern: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=4142


What this idea is trying to accomplish is to provide some modulation of engine torque after the ESC is engaged so you can balance the car with the throttle. This is shown via the manifold pressure line on the plots I posted. I completely realize that there would be more to this than just a modification of the drive by wire tables. I also expect the hysteresis of the pedal switch to be a bit of an issue. That being said, it's just an idea of mine that I've been kicking around for awhile.


The ultimate solution is proportional boost control via ESC speed control. ESC engagement could still happen at 50 or 75% throttle position, but the boost, thereafter, be proportional with throttle position.

Understood. This really all depends on how you are as a driver really. If you look at the best in the business(professional drivers) they are almost always 100 percent off, maintain speed or 100 percent on. Any times spent in between can be used for increased cornering grip rather than 75% on available power reserves(100% na plus X% of ESC power).

Now that being said, if you have a very high strung turbo that makes a world of difference because you have to prepare the turbo for what you are going to need, before your turbo can actually deliver.

We dont really have the problem with the ESC and furthermore our delta between full NA power and full ESC power is not as great as that of a high strung turbo. If you look at the ESC without being engaged it is at about 135 tq at 6000 rpm, with engagement is goes to 175tq, this is a relatively small increase in the grand scheme of things. Certainly it is a long ways away from a turbo that could be say 135tq NA power and 250tq Boosted power at the same RPM.

In theory i can see the problem you are trying to solve i just don't know if the problem exists in a way that should be fixed with software and not just better driver training.

In any regard, good conversation so far. What i tell most people is you have to drive it to understand how smooth it is. Everyone is different and everyone uses it differently as well. Alot of the negatives people would draw on before the release was that it wasn't progressive, anyone that has actually bought one can attest to the fact that it doesn't need to be more progressive.

[fenton]

I should say that the above does not apply to drifting. This applies to grip driving only. When drifting you do steer the car with power and varying levels of traction as dictated by the speed of the tire rotation.

[Boxer486]

So I'm curious about the anticipated voltage drop with relocation to the trunk. How much are we talking? With the right gauge of cable, you'd see around 1 volt of drop at 1000 feet of cable.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by Boxer486

So I'm curious about the anticipated voltage drop with relocation to the trunk. How much are we talking? With the right gauge of cable, you'd see around 1 volt of drop at 1000 feet of cable.

There is no drop because people are not relocating their controller. They are simply relocating their starter batter.

The double dump pack plus controller remain in the engine as close as possible to the DC motor.

Relocating to the trunk lets you run double the amount of dump packs, reducing the voltage drop due to their being a larger mass to draw energy from.

[-Ozzy-]

The stock run was with no header/tune? This looks like the usual stock graph line you've used before, but for argument's sake I think we can still generalize that:
With Header, Tune, CBExhaust, and ESC = +45whp on 93oct. And we can say that's a safe number? That's not bad considering those 4 items will run you around $3,000. Not to mention that beautiful +75 or so torque in the dip.

[Boxer486]

Originally Posted by fenton

There is no drop because people are not relocating their controller. They are simply relocating their starter batter.

The double dump pack plus controller remain in the engine as close as possible to the DC motor.

Relocating to the trunk lets you run double the amount of dump packs, reducing the voltage drop due to their being a larger mass to draw energy from.

Well that was my original question to relocate the dump packs and the controller to the trunk and some said voltage drop would be a problem.

So is it a problem or not if I run thicker gauge cable? And how much drop are we talking is a problem?

[raven1231]

Originally Posted by Boxer486

Well that was my original question to relocate the dump packs and the controller to the trunk and some said voltage drop would be a problem.

So is it a problem or no...?

if you relocate the controller yes. If not then no.

[jflogerzi]

What about those super small starter batteries + 3 dump batteries? Or does it need to be in pairs of 2?

[calmtigers]

Holy shit that torque curve. Any news on OFT dollar price for this tq250?

[JimmyMac]

Originally Posted by calmtigers

Holy shit that torque curve. Any news on OFT dollar price for this tq250?

+1