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#15 |
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Just a dude
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: Scion FR-S 2013
Location: Edson, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,289
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Thanked 1,188 Times in 852 Posts
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Looking great!
Small simple question. Your center plastics around your shifter and your TC buttons etc all black, is that a stock thing for the AUS GT86 or did you source those out? Asking I want to ditch all silver crap this winter when I'm parked and doing more minor mods, thanks!
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#16 |
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NASA SpecE30 Racer
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I mounted up my Full Blown oil cooler last weekend, and my APR brake ducts arrive today. I was thinking about fabbing a custom duct to connect to the brake duct and direct air directly at the oil cooler as well.
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- King Tut
Street/Track Car: 2006 Honda S2000 TT3 || Race Car: 1987 BMW 325is SpecE30 || Tow Vehicle: 2014 RAM 1500 EcoDiesel Sold Cars: 2012 BMW M3 || 2013 Subaru BRZ || 2012 Porsche Cayman R || 2009 Chevrolet Z06 || 2009 BMW M3 || 2004 BMW M3 || 2004 Nissan 350Z |
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#17 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: 2013 Toyota 86 GT
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 197
Thanks: 34
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Quote:
That's the stock trim on the Aus 86 GT, not the GTS, my dash trim/radio surrounds are also all matte black as well. A lot of people prefer the GTS with silver trim, but I'm a big fan of the all black look. Although I've added a couple of silver highlights like the centre plaque and the reverse lockout ring. |
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#18 |
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Just a dude
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: Scion FR-S 2013
Location: Edson, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,289
Thanks: 1,185
Thanked 1,188 Times in 852 Posts
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Well good god man tell those people that want silver ill trade em, I much prefer the matte black!!!
Inner door handle trim and AC vent surrounds black to??
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: 2013 Toyota 86 GT
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 197
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I'd have to check the door handles but the aircon vents are definitely black. I think the only silver trim I have is the bottom of the steering wheel which I am thinking of swapping out to CF or dipping black.
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: 2013 Toyota 86 GT
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 197
Thanks: 34
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Credit where it is due to Ravspec, he's offered to replace the lug nuts and centre caps. Thanks Mark!
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#21 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: 2013 Toyota 86 GT
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 197
Thanks: 34
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That's not a bad idea and would be pretty easy to split the duct in two. I was also considering removing the light and replacing the whole grill except the indicator with a mesh.
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#22 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: 2013 Toyota 86 GT
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 197
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One of the two little things I've gotten done today. Gauge isn't wired in yet but I promised that I'd get the pod installed and photos up for the guy that made it for me...
Thanks Redline. Yes I am aware I have a giant phone... I love it all the same and the HKS apps look amazing on it. The other mod wasn't quite as successful. Little bit of colourful language was used in large amounts today. I'll explain more when/if I've fixed it. |
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#23 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Drives: Subaru BRZ Limited 6MT
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 2,432
Thanks: 712
Thanked 955 Times in 545 Posts
Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
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Quote:
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Innovate Supercharged Black Limited BRZ 6-Speed MT(Build Thread)
2010 Cadillac CTS-V Sedan M6 w/550whp (Build Thread) ![]() |
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#24 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: 2013 Toyota 86 GT
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 197
Thanks: 34
Thanked 135 Times in 85 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
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#25 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Drives: Subaru BRZ Limited 6MT
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
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Yeah, that's unfortunate but it looks awesome!
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Innovate Supercharged Black Limited BRZ 6-Speed MT(Build Thread)
2010 Cadillac CTS-V Sedan M6 w/550whp (Build Thread) ![]() |
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#26 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: 2013 Toyota 86 GT
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 197
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Ok colourful language has stopped... For now. This issue was with the stupid trd door stabilizers. Whoever loctited those bolts in originally should be shot. Although the issue was really my fault and I'll own up to that freely.
Words of advice, if you buy a brand new rattle gun to remove the bolts in your door, give it a try on something not related to your car first. I bought an awesome little dewalt rattle screw driver for another job I'm doing for work at the moment, as it happened you need one to break the loctite on the bolts in the body of the door. Bang two birds, one stone, perfect I can used it to install these trd brackets and move on with my life. As it so happens the one that I bought packs a serious punch. First bolt pops out no problem, rattle gun breaks the seal with the loctite and I unscrew it the rest of the way with a ratchet. There's where I made my first mistake kids. Leave the first bolt in whilst you rattle out the second bolt. Or else you'll do what I did and torque the nut section inside the door out of alignment and lose it in the frame of the door so you can't see it at all and there's no where to thread the new bolts in. My bad. I had to go fishing and twist it back into alignment and all sorts, but I got it back and the new latch installed. Crisis over. I learnt from this and didn't pull the bolts out all the way from the second door until I had broken the seal on the other one. However I was now in a bit of a hurry and didn't clean out the loctite very well before inserting the New bolts. One of the bolts binds up half way in, isn't going anywhere so I reach for the torque gun which is still at my feet and put it into the jammed bolt. Mistake number two. The bolt turns a little at then the torque gun strips the head of the new bolt in about two seconds flat! Ba bow. At this point it is almost in, but too far to get a grip on it with a pair of pliers and too far out to get the door to close on it. There is definitely an "oh f@#k I'm screwed up my car thought or two going through my head. It's 8pm at this point and I'm not happy so I decide to walk away and come back fresh in the morning. 2am and I'm not sleeping and trying to figure out how to fix it... a solution pops into my brain... I won't tell you how but I got it fixed using a special form of gentle persuasion and several every day household items and the door closes and the stabilizers work. But it's not a pretty solution. Moral of the story. Well morals. Don't use brand new power tools on brand new car without testing them first. Don't use a rattle gun to extract the bolts all the way in the door of the car. Break the loctite on all of the bolts with the rattle gun before removing any of them all the way. Clean the loctite out of the bolt holes before inserting new ones. Last edited by JD86; 07-12-2013 at 10:57 AM. |
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#27 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Drives: AVO BRZ
Location: Australia
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Don't worry we all have these moments with our cars.
Mine has a nice big scratch from what looks like me closing it on a spanner or something, I have no idea how or when I did it. I'm doing the door stabiliser install on my car in the near future & will be careful.
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#28 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: 2013 Toyota 86 GT
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 197
Thanks: 34
Thanked 135 Times in 85 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
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Quote:
To be honest they're a really simple mod to do. I just made a balls up of it because I was in a hurry and wasn't thinking. If I'd left it to this morning I'm sure I wouldn't have had a problem, but I had a new shiny power tool that looks like a gun and goes vrrrrooom when you pull the trigger... What could possibly go wrong?!? Haha. I now have to find a replacement for the screwed up bolt and figure out how I'm going to extract it given that it has a torque head on it that I've stripped and not a Phillips I suspect that will be an interesting task. But it is in and the bolt is hidden out of the way so the latch works so I might just leave as is. |
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