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#15 |
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Dave, you're positively ghetto sometimes and I enjoy it.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to OrbitalEllipses For This Useful Post: | Dave-ROR (03-27-2013) |
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#16 | |
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Quote:
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#17 |
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I'm in a similar boat... I replaced 3 out of 4 lines with stainless, and the last one rolled the nut... I plan on replacing a the hardline..
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#18 |
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get a flaring tool, some fittings and patch it.
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#19 |
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maybe try using a thread restore kit? No idea what pitch it would need to be, but its probably some type of tapered fitting anyways so that may not work.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Ranatsu For This Useful Post: | Hanakuso (03-28-2013) |
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#20 |
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I would try carefully re-tapping the threads to see if you can save them. If that doesn't work, you shouldn't need to cut more than ~1/4" off the line to replace the fitting and re-flare them which should be fine with the distance from soft line mount to fitting.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to wparsons For This Useful Post: | Hanakuso (03-28-2013) |
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#21 |
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that hard line more than likely is routed through the engine bay into the ABS module. I redid all my hardlines on my STi because I moved the ABS unit into the fender to shave up the engine bay a bit.
Follow the line from the corner. It will more than likely wrap against the back of the firewall. You MIGHT be able to get it out, but when I did this my engine was out and it was still a PITA trying to get it out from behind all the other lines and such. Your best bet is to do what others have said, cut and reflare, extend the hard line and put a new fitting on it. Either that or live with the stripped nut if its not leaking. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to xxscaxx For This Useful Post: | Hanakuso (03-28-2013) |
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#22 |
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Have it cut minimally, R&R the fitting, then reflare. The bracket bends easily (~$10 part) just bend up and out at the neck.
An OEM hardline is ~40$ each from the dealer and is not a commonly stock or replaced part, you have to wait for it indefinitely. And snaking that hardline to/from the engine...well, good luck. It is already formed, bend it more during snaking...then you shoulda ordered 2. Not speaking from a bad experience but from a research I did before I swapped to SS lines. Use PB Blaster - better degreaser because it doesn't evaporate as fast as a brake cleaner - will actually lube before it evaps. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to MyRx For This Useful Post: | Hanakuso (03-28-2013) |
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#23 |
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I set up an appointment for this Saturday and they will check it out. I will mention just cutting and reflaring. I looked at the lines last night and the driver side might be doable with installing a new hard line without removing anything, but the passenger side looks much trickier and probably needs to removing a bunch of stuff.
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#24 |
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As mentioned by others, replacing the line is completely unnecessary. Simply cut off the flare, remove tube nut, install new tube nut and re-flare the end of the line. Get a good flaring tool though, the cheap ones always do a poor flare unless you've got lots of practice. You also want one of those tubing cutters with the void for the flare to sit in, that way you're only cutting as much as absolutely necessary. Hope this helps.
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#25 |
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I just got my SS lines swapped by a shop today. I ended up rounding both rear hard line nuts. The shop had to torch and use vice grips. Now they are forever mangled with vice grips.
Just curious if anyone has managed to reflare their lines successfully or had the whole line replaced? Thanks. |
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