Question about Long-Term "Garaging"

[arleewa]

Thx for the good info!

I should have specified the length of time. I am looking at 6 months being the longest amount of time before I return.

[Khazzy]

Originally Posted by srtblake

rot lot is more-so brakes rusting(rotting) the tires flat spotting depends on the tread wear rating of said tire most of the time. these things happen though.

This is very true and surprised I did not see anyone talk about the tires. I have heard of people jacking up the car and putting it on stands to keep the weight off of the wheels to prevent flat spots in the tire. Everything else has been listed above. Just have your friend drive it around the neighborhood a few times varying speed (within legal limits) and park it again. If it is not covered, please have your friend wash it more than 1 time a month if it is sitting outside in the sun or get a nice car cover. Either way the sun will eat the paint alive just sitting there.

[DeepHunta]

Someone has probably mentioned this but, you will wish you never left your car. You will wish you never took that job opportunity

I wanted to garage my car for winter here in Seattle, and how long did I last? 5 days! This car is meant to be driven and I cannot stress this enough.

Good Luck on the venture man.

[JonnyRocket]

Originally Posted by arleewa

Thx for the good info!

I should have specified the length of time. I am looking at 6 months being the longest amount of time before I return.

When it comes to storage, that's not very long. Follow my suggestions and you'll be just fine.

[LeeMaster]

In addition to everything thats already been said, do NOT engage the ebrake. Use 2x4 wood to hold your car from moving and most importantly do not store a vehicle after driving on wet roads because your rotors will get stuck on your brake pads. I learned that one the hard way

[gily25]

Originally Posted by LeeMaster

In addition to everything thats already been said, do NOT engage the ebrake. Use 2x4 wood to hold your car from moving and most importantly do not store a vehicle after driving on wet roads because your rotors will get stuck on your brake pads. I learned that one the hard way

I got some wheel chocks at harbor freight for $5 a piece. Rated for 2 ton, seem to be doing just fine for the little car.

If you leave the car with the friend or allow him to drive the car AT ALL...check with your insurance company to verify that the friend will be covered (for liability as well as medical coverage). It will be a lot cheaper to pay a little extra for 6 months to insure the car than wait for a crisis and have a totalled car the insurance refuses to pay out.

Also consider writing a basic agreement if you leave it with the friend. The VIN number of the car, make/Model and registered address. The address where the car will be stored, the property owner (does your friend own the house). Mileage of the vehicle when parked. Insurance company and policy number of the car. Then if you agree to let him drive it specify the conditions, if he's not allowed to do anything other than "lot drive" the vehicle specify that too. Print both your full names and in parenthesis your attachment to the car [ i.e. (owner)]. You each sign above your name. You should consider having it notorized but if he's a good friend he won't screw you over and the paper will just be a formality (that he should understand if he watches any daytime TV judge LOL).

[arleewa]

Originally Posted by gily25

I got some wheel chocks at harbor freight for $5 a piece. Rated for 2 ton, seem to be doing just fine for the little car.

If you leave the car with the friend or allow him to drive the car AT ALL...check with your insurance company to verify that the friend will be covered (for liability as well as medical coverage). It will be a lot cheaper to pay a little extra for 6 months to insure the car than wait for a crisis and have a totalled car the insurance refuses to pay out.

Also consider writing a basic agreement if you leave it with the friend. The VIN number of the car, make/Model and registered address. The address where the car will be stored, the property owner (does your friend own the house). Mileage of the vehicle when parked. Insurance company and policy number of the car. Then if you agree to let him drive it specify the conditions, if he's not allowed to do anything other than "lot drive" the vehicle specify that too. Print both your full names and in parenthesis your attachment to the car [ i.e. (owner)]. You each sign above your name. You should consider having it notorized but if he's a good friend he won't screw you over and the paper will just be a formality (that he should understand if he watches any daytime TV judge LOL).

Was wondering about an agreement and you hit it right on the money! Thanks!!

[PabloN]

OK, here's a question. What do you do at the END of long-term storage? I'm storing my car over the winter to avoid salt exposure. A friend of mine does the same thing with his 911 & he pullsl the fuel pump and ignition fuses and then turn the engine over a few times to circulate oil before starting up. The Toyota dealer said that wasn't necessary--the Toybaru twins have paper oil filters which allow oil to circulate "instantly" on start-up. So in the spring I plan to just start up the car, let it idle for a while, and then drive gently to wake it out of hibernation. Does this sound right?

[jmaryt]

Originally Posted by srtblake

rot lot is more-so brakes rusting(rotting) the tires flat spotting depends on the tread wear rating of said tire most of the time. these things happen though.

"rot lot" is very real.cars are mechanical devices that require them to be in motion.."rot lot" is damaging. sent from tap-a-talk.

[#87]

My last car I left for 5 months. When I got back it started right up and drove it. If you put a fuel stabil and have him drive it once a month should be fine I imagine. And if you just leave it at home with no driving I doubt it will do any harm either.

[JonnyRocket]

Originally Posted by PabloN

OK, here's a question. What do you do at the END of long-term storage? I'm storing my car over the winter to avoid salt exposure. A friend of mine does the same thing with his 911 & he pullsl the fuel pump and ignition fuses and then turn the engine over a few times to circulate oil before starting up. The Toyota dealer said that wasn't necessary--the Toybaru twins have paper oil filters which allow oil to circulate "instantly" on start-up. So in the spring I plan to just start up the car, let it idle for a while, and then drive gently to wake it out of hibernation. Does this sound right?

Nothing special is needed when you wake it. Check to make sure the ties are inflated and that you didn't have something odd, like a fluid leak. Then just fire it up like you would normally, let it idle for a bit (not until warm, but until the revs drop to normal levels), and off you go.

Many people with classics will pull the spark plus and put a few drops of oil in each cylinder, but that's only if it's been stopped a looong time. Unnecessary with your car.

[PabloN]

Originally Posted by JonnyRocket

Nothing special is needed when you wake it. Check to make sure the ties are inflated and that you didn't have something odd, like a fluid leak. Then just fire it up like you would normally, let it idle for a bit (not until warm, but until the revs drop to normal levels), and off you go.

Many people with classics will pull the spark plus and put a few drops of oil in each cylinder, but that's only if it's been stopped a looong time. Unnecessary with your car.

OK thanks. I once stored a Saab 99 for 18 months and dripped oil in the cylinders before starting it--didn't want to go through that again (besides, it sounds like a bad idea with direct injection).