What Amp to get?

[6-Shift]

Originally Posted by austell

Im just gonna run them safe at 200. Im just going for added bass with more sq performance, not really just loud bust year ears out bass.

My recommendation: ALWAYS get an amp that is maxing out your subwoofer. All amps have tuning capabilities, and you don't want what happened to me. In my old Nissan Titan I put in a Alpine Type E 10" which is rated at 750W. Well, since I wasn't looking for anything crazy I put in a 600w cheap amp. Then, to my chagrin, I literally COULDN'T hear the subwoofer. As it turns out when you decide to go with an amp that is less powerful, that means that the amp cannot charge the magnet as well, which gives you less ability to move air/create soundwaves/hear bass. My recommendation is to find an amp that matches the max ratings for both speakers because, if you do that, you can always adjust the bass down, but if you go cheap/weak you can't turn the bass up! Just my .02

[FreshFRS]

Originally Posted by austell

Im just gonna run them safe at 200. Im just going for added bass with more sq performance, not really just loud bust year ears out bass.

300 wont make them too much louder but it will give you head room to upgrade later. to run at peak efficiency which means better SQ you could turn the gains way down and it would. give yourself 250watts or even 200 if you wanted.

[FreshFRS]

Originally Posted by Missourifornian

My recommendation: ALWAYS get an amp that is maxing out your subwoofer. All amps have tuning capabilities, and you don't want what happened to me. In my old Nissan Titan I put in a Alpine Type E 10" which is rated at 750W. Well, since I wasn't looking for anything crazy I put in a 600w cheap amp. Then, to my chagrin, I literally COULDN'T hear the subwoofer. As it turns out when you decide to go with an amp that is less powerful, that means that the amp cannot charge the magnet as well, which gives you less ability to move air/create soundwaves/hear bass. My recommendation is to find an amp that matches the max ratings for both speakers because, if you do that, you can always adjust the bass down, but if you go cheap/weak you can't turn the bass up! Just my .02

for that sub you should only need a solid 350watts at 4 ohms to put the sub in optimal power. 750watts is peak you never wanna run that much power through it all the time. more than likely your cheap amp was rated 600 watts at 1 ohm. At four ohms you might have only been getting 100-150.

[austell]

Originally Posted by mashal

Alpine pdx's .. Small + stackable + stable + quiet = win


I-Tapatalk

Im looking to pay around 200 or less? Is there any that run at that price

Originally Posted by Missourifornian

My recommendation: ALWAYS get an amp that is maxing out your subwoofer. All amps have tuning capabilities, and you don't want what happened to me. In my old Nissan Titan I put in a Alpine Type E 10" which is rated at 750W. Well, since I wasn't looking for anything crazy I put in a 600w cheap amp. Then, to my chagrin, I literally COULDN'T hear the subwoofer. As it turns out when you decide to go with an amp that is less powerful, that means that the amp cannot charge the magnet as well, which gives you less ability to move air/create soundwaves/hear bass. My recommendation is to find an amp that matches the max ratings for both speakers because, if you do that, you can always adjust the bass down, but if you go cheap/weak you can't turn the bass up! Just my .02

So any recomendations on what to get?

Originally Posted by FreshFRS

300 wont make them too much louder but it will give you head room to upgrade later. to run at peak efficiency which means better SQ you could turn the gains way down and it would. give yourself 250watts or even 200 if you wanted.

So any recomendations on what to get? Im not going to spend over 250 and preferabally around 200 or below

[austell]

Im looking at the Alpine PDX-F4 but Im not liking the price.

[FreshFRS]

Originally Posted by austell

Im looking at the Alpine PDX-F4 but Im not liking the price.

the M6 is probably your best bet. but the F4 is good too. The one thing to not cheap out on is your amp.

[austell]

Originally Posted by FreshFRS

the M6 is probably your best bet. but the F4 is good too. The one thing to not cheap out on is your amp.

I dont know how hard it is to do, but It seems to me it would be much harder to run a mono amp than a 2 or 4 channel? Also the price is just too high for me.

Ok. How does the Pioneer GM-D8604 Look? Its a brand new amp, and can run 300 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD8...04.html?tp=115

[FreshFRS]

Originally Posted by austell

I dont know how hard it is to do, but It seems to me it would be much harder to run a mono amp than a 2 or 4 channel? Also the price is just too high for me.

Ok. How does the Pioneer GM-D8604 Look? Its a brand new amp, and can run 300 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms.

I prefer a dedicated sub channel or a mono amp personally, here is a basic wiring diagram of how to wire your subs to a mono amp. http://m.seimg.net/product/img/subwo...4_ohm_mono.jpg

That amp would work however.

[6-Shift]

Originally Posted by FreshFRS

for that sub you should only need a solid 350watts at 4 ohms to put the sub in optimal power. 750watts is peak you never wanna run that much power through it all the time. more than likely your cheap amp was rated 600 watts at 1 ohm. At four ohms you might have only been getting 100-150.

Yeah you're probably right...if I end up moving that subwoofer to the FR-S I'm going to get a correct amplifier and a better box, the truck box it's in right now isn't optimal Audio stuff like this confuses me, especially after my experience with my first amp (sony xplod 600w amp btw, piece of crap). I feel like a 250 watt amplifier (according to specs the top RMS is 250) wouldn't even move the sub enough to hear it. Anyway, in response to OP you should check around your local audio shops, sometimes they'll be able to get good brands for cheaper than online.

[FreshFRS]

Originally Posted by Missourifornian

Yeah you're probably right...if I end up moving that subwoofer to the FR-S I'm going to get a correct amplifier and a better box, the truck box it's in right now isn't optimal Audio stuff like this confuses me, especially after my experience with my first amp (sony xplod 600w amp btw, piece of crap). I feel like a 250 watt amplifier (according to specs the top RMS is 250) wouldn't even move the sub enough to hear it. Anyway, in response to OP you should check around your local audio shops, sometimes they'll be able to get good brands for cheaper than online.

I'm going to run a PDX-V9 Running a Stereo Integrity MB MKIV Shallow 12" needs 350watts RMS and is one of the nicest sounding SQ subs i've seen. Combined with a Hertz Mille Passive/Active 3 Piece Component System (active woofers/ passively crossed over mid and tweet) it should be a kick-ass sound system. Pioneer DEX-P99RS source unit.

for your sub a PDX-M6 would be great. very efficient with the gains turned almost to zero it would pump.