Installed the Swift Racing Strut Tower Triangulation Bar - Page 2 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

White64Goat · 08-09-2012, 09:32 PM

Cut yourself a piece of black heater hose, split it and wrap it around that hose. If that hose is rubbing against the bar, eventually it may rub a hole in it. 2 cents worth of prevention........

dunphyjp · 08-11-2012, 01:30 AM

iv'e always been a big believer in chassis stiffening... if i had the option of power or chassis bracing/weight reduction, i'd always go on the latter... went from a 348 whp MINI Cooper S with just a strut brace to a 240whp detune and full chassis bracing all around... makes a notable difference in my mind and ride quality. but with this chassis and setup it may not do much... but add the sub bracing and i'll be it'll be noticed... at least on track, street would probably just be a bit smoother (shoulda specified, i track :P )

jadewbj · 08-13-2012, 05:29 PM

Interested to see how it "felt".

JoeBoxer · 10-07-2012, 01:52 AM

Checking in to see if you have noticed any difference with this and also if that hose is still ok.

ayau · 10-07-2012, 02:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeBoxer

Checking in to see if you have noticed any difference with this and also if that hose is still ok.

you'll notice a lot more difference swapping to a stiffer front antiroll bar.

the car already has some OEM strut tower bars, i doubt it will need an aftermarket piece unless you're running some serious rubber eg., r comps.

JoeBoxer · 10-07-2012, 02:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ayau

you'll notice a lot more difference swapping to a stiffer front antiroll bar.

the car already has some OEM strut tower bars, i doubt it will need an aftermarket piece unless you're running some serious rubber eg., r comps.

I know there would be more difference swapping to a bigger front sway bar but i really don't think that would be an improvement.

ayau · 10-07-2012, 02:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeBoxer

I know there would be more difference swapping to a bigger front sway bar but i really don't think that would be an improvement.

when you run stickier tires, you'll want a stiffer front roll bar to reduce the body from over rolling. with oem tires, the stock roll bar is fine.

JoeBoxer · 10-07-2012, 03:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ayau

when you run stickier tires, you'll want a stiffer front roll bar to reduce the body from over rolling. with oem tires, the stock roll bar is fine.

LOL ok i've never heard of anybody just putting on a stiffer front bar, I have put a stiffer rear bar on my TSX but not sure why anybody would do front only. If anything you would want to do front and rear but this is about strut bars so please keep it on topic.

ayau · 10-07-2012, 05:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeBoxer

LOL ok i've never heard of anybody just putting on a stiffer front bar, I have put a stiffer rear bar on my TSX but not sure why anybody would do front only. If anything you would want to do front and rear but this is about strut bars so please keep it on topic.

i was thinking of SCCA stock class for some reason. you're only allowed to chnage the front or the rear, not both.

Captain Snooze · 10-07-2012, 06:14 AM

I posted this here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19125

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

Hypothesis : If there were benefits of a tower brace then the manufacture would have installed one.

I am suggesting that strut braces are relatively inexpensive to make, very little in the way of cons (the only thing i can think of is extra weight). I am also suggesting there would be more benefit in fitting higher durometer bushings as I think there would be more flex in the bushings than in the chassis.
I would like to see the results of this:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason@Nameless

Regarding measuring chassis deflection, this car is PRIME for something I've been wanting to do for a long time: Put a few 1000-2000lb load cells into a pair of bars and test the factory setup!!! I've got a load cell logger and just sent my one load cell back to the manufacturer to be recal'd because it pooped the bed. I'm going to have them ship me two back so I can watch a few things at once for a change.
Jason

Please note this post is just conjecture on my part.

JoeBoxer · 10-07-2012, 06:37 AM

A few have already changed out the front lower control arm bushings with good results, I will probably do so in the future when the factory ones start to show some wear but i can install this myself in 15 minutes. It may not do much but i prefer a strut brace like this or the GTSpec/Hotchkis/FT86SpeedFactory ones.

wparsons · 10-10-2012, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ayau

when you run stickier tires, you'll want a stiffer front roll bar to reduce the body from over rolling. with oem tires, the stock roll bar is fine.

Just running a stiffer front bar will also change the handling balance. A stiffer front bar will make it want to push, a stiffer rear bar will make it want to rotate more.

Since you replace all four tires, you should replace both bars unless you need to drastically shift the balance.

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08-09-2012, 09:32 PM	#15
White64Goat Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: 13 BRZ CBS LTD MT, 02 WRX Location: Fred. Co. Md. Posts: 2,351 Thanks: 65 Thanked 1,113 Times in 628 Posts Mentioned: 19 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	Cut yourself a piece of black heater hose, split it and wrap it around that hose. If that hose is rubbing against the bar, eventually it may rub a hole in it. 2 cents worth of prevention........

08-11-2012, 01:30 AM	#16
dunphyjp Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: Ultramarine FR-S Location: Villanova, Pa Posts: 54 Thanks: 16 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	iv'e always been a big believer in chassis stiffening... if i had the option of power or chassis bracing/weight reduction, i'd always go on the latter... went from a 348 whp MINI Cooper S with just a strut brace to a 240whp detune and full chassis bracing all around... makes a notable difference in my mind and ride quality. but with this chassis and setup it may not do much... but add the sub bracing and i'll be it'll be noticed... at least on track, street would probably just be a bit smoother (shoulda specified, i track :P )

10-07-2012, 01:52 AM	#18
JoeBoxer Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: Whiteout FR-S Location: Arkansas Posts: 4,154 Thanks: 1,666 Thanked 1,627 Times in 997 Posts Mentioned: 72 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Checking in to see if you have noticed any difference with this and also if that hose is still ok.

10-07-2012, 06:37 AM	#25
JoeBoxer Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: Whiteout FR-S Location: Arkansas Posts: 4,154 Thanks: 1,666 Thanked 1,627 Times in 997 Posts Mentioned: 72 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	A few have already changed out the front lower control arm bushings with good results, I will probably do so in the future when the factory ones start to show some wear but i can install this myself in 15 minutes. It may not do much but i prefer a strut brace like this or the GTSpec/Hotchkis/FT86SpeedFactory ones.

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